After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing the south face of Urus Central (5,495m). The initial 360m had loose snow and mixed climbing, to 80°, along with falling blo...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, SedonaOn October 6, 1987, Brian Green (19) was climbing a 5.7 route on the Courthouse Rock Fountain, and while attempting a final chimney near the top, he ...
Kangtega, Women’s Ascent. Our expedition climbed Kangtega largely by the same route after Camp I as the New Zealanders, who made the first ascent in 1963. We established Base Camp on April 24 at 4700 meters at the foot of the Kangtega Glacier. Bec...
Huandoy Sur, 11-second descent. In 1997 Frenchmen Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Yannick Graziani made the second ascent of the French Route (800m, 5+ A2+[New Wave], Desmaison-Faivre- Ottmann-Salomon, 1976) on the overhanging, shaded south face of Huandoy ...
Moose’s Tooth. In May Tim Auger, Mike Farrell, Ron Gilligan and I attempted the Moose’s Tooth via the Ruth Glacier-south col route. Although this route has been attempted many times, the Moose’s Tooth had still only one ascent—via the west ridge b...
Fairweather Ascent and Lituya and Crillon Attempts. On May 21, Scot Alex McPherson and Brazilian Adriano Petrachi completed the ascent of Fairweather by the Carpé route. Also members of the party were Alaskan John Thompson and Canadian Keith Carte...
FALLING ROCK, SUP ON SNOW, POOR POSITION, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BullerOn April 18, 1989, about 1030, Steven W. set out from Calgary to hike and climb in the Robertson Glacier area. That evening, his father reported that he...
The Salmon Alps of Northern California. A very rugged, although not a very lofty range of mountains are the Salmon Alps of northern California. Situated on the headwaters of tributaries of the Trinity River, they rise in sharp peaks and jagged arê...
Trisul Attempt from the West. Our members were Santiago Alvarez, Juan José Iglesias, Baldomero Rodríguez and I. Until the end of August when we arrived at Base Camp it rained a great deal. We approached up the Nandakini valley in five days from Gh...
Agram Valley, Wakhan. S. du Chaffaud, A. Martin, Y. Richard and I, French, and B. Lawder, American, explored in the summer of 1971 the Agram valley, south of Zebek, at the beginning of the Wakhan. The whole massif around the Agram valley was unkno...
Simian Outing Society. During the winter Diana Knaak and Pete Zvengrowski made the first known ski ascent of Mount Eisenhower in the Canadian Rockies, and Pete Zvengrowski, Skip King, and Walter Techabold made the first winter ascent of Victoria f...
Everest, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Miss Ursula Huber, Richi Ott, Werner Steiniger, Thomas Pfenniger, Robert Bosch and me as leader. We set up Base Camp at 5300 meters on March 28. From March 30 to April 11, we fixed rope t...
The following is a list of ascents made in the 1970-1 season in the Cordillera Darwin on Tierro del Fuego: Cerro Darwin (8032 feet) by M. Andrews, N. Banks, M. Taylor, P. Radcliffe, P. James, N. Bennett, R. Heffernan on December 30, 1970, two unna...
Baruntse. Two expeditions climbed Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) by the normal southeast ridge. On October 11, French climbers Michel Zalio, Guy l’Hermite, Mme Mariette Desplan, Mlle Christine Roux and Sherpa Kilo Temba reached the summit. On...
Pic Pobeda, Tien Shan. The second highest peak of the Soviet Union, Pic Pobeda (Peak of Victory), 24,407 feet, is reported to have been climbed in 1956. This peak was discovered in 1937, attempted in 1938, and surveyed in 1943.
FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTION, UNROPEDWashington, Castle RockOn October 27, 1991, Niccy Code (32) was leading a group of students on Castle Rock during a semester course in mountaineering. Two of her students were finishing the second pitch of Saber...
The Incisor, New Route. It was reported that Eli Helmuth climbed a new route on the Incisor with three clients in the spring. The 700-meter climb, which started with a hidden 45-degree névé couloir to reach the crux, followed the northwest face. T...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONColorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone NeedleOn August 22, 1993, a 38 year old man was struck by a falling rock near the summit of Crestone Needle while climbing with four others. He was struck in the face, and then ...
Nojin Kangsang, probable first ascent of west ridge. On August 15 Aumi Nozawai, Shinichi Miyagawa, and Masao Saito from a six-member Himalayan Association of Japan expedition led by 61-year-old Kunimitsu Sakai, made the probable fourth ascent of 7...
Changtse Attempt. An expedition led by me comprised Britons Andrew Elliot, Bill Bennett, Jeremy Edwards, Edward Morgan, Peter Wilson and Americans Paul Dornisch and Russell Lee. We attempted the southeast face. After fixing 1000 feet of rope, on O...