New York, Shawangunks. On 18 May deVries was leading on an overhang known as Shackley’s Ceiling near top of the cliffs. He was clipped into a piton just under the overhang by means of a sling and two carabi- ners. Neave was belaying deVries from a...
Ahmad Shah Hindu Kush (Salang Region). The Kraków expedition led by Jerzy Wala started its activities near the Khenjan valley. (See above for the later explorations and climbs) While geomorphic work was being carried out under the direction of L. ...
Caullaraju Group. A Brazilian expedition authorized by the União Brasileira de Excursionismo operated in the Caullaraju group of the beautiful Cordillera Blanca. Because of my previous expeditions there, I was put in charge of the group made up of...
Nilgiri North Attempt. Three South Koreans led by Oh In Hawan attempted to climb Nilgiri North by its south face. They established two high camps but did not get beyond 20,350 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Scott Peak, Northwest Face. On August 24, Mark Stasic and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Scott Peak (2691 meters, 8828 feet). This route runs from 6500 to 8500 feet and tops out on the ridge between Scott Peak and its subsidiary su...
AVALANCHE OR ROCKFALLAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Deltaform, SupercouloirOn June 5, two climbers in their early 20’s were reported overdue attempting the Supercouloir route (IV 5.8) on the North face of Mount Deltaform, near Lake Louise, tw...
Pass or Fail. In November 1971 Gib Lewis and I climbed a three-pitch climb to the west of the Cross Country Crack in the Arch Rock area. The crux is a jam-crack. NCCS II, F10.Rick Sylvester
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club, in its 66th year of operation, again sponsored a full climbing program with 42 trips attended by 562 members and prospectives, as well as a successful two week camp on Roger’s Pass in the Selkirk Mountains...
Cambridge Fjord, Alain Estève Peak, Sous l’œil de Nanouk. Combining their experience of polar deserts and of mountains all over the world, climbers of the French High Mountain Military Group (GMHM) went to the Canadian north and climbed a virgin p...
Field Book. Wind River Range, by Orrin H. Bonney and L. Bonney. Revised. Houston: Published by Bonney and Bonney, 1968, 195 pages, 50 photos, 12 aerial photographs, 10 maps. Price $5.95, hard bound; $3.95, paper.Those acquainted with the first edi...
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Club members made several first ascents during the past climbing season. In June junior members Dave Meyers, Nick Parker, and Mike Judd climbed Mount Williwaw (5445 feet) after several previous attempts. Alex Bit...
Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982. On pages 206 and 208 of A.A.J., 1984, an ascent of Ausangate’s northwest face was described. A photograph of the route appears on page 207. In Lo Scarpone of July 1, 1984, an account a...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The 1970 year-end section membership was 135. A survey by Mike Rees was sent to members to gauge their interests in climbing and the Club. Publication of the revised guide book to the Olympic Mountains, which is sponsored ...
Everest, Various Activity on the North Side, and Cho Oyu, Various Activity. Ten commercial expeditions on the Tibetan side and two in Nepal (several of them commercial as well) made attempts on Everest, but not a soul got to the top. This was the ...
Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range. On November 24, our group reached the summit of the Vinson Massif. We were Pete Ackerman, Bob Failing, John Otter, Bill Martin, Mike Meyer, Dave Tollakson and I. The ascent commenced following our November 17 landing...
Tocllaraju. Our group was composed of Catherine Krieg of Lima and Swiss Max Gubser, Hans Bockhorn, Peter Hersperger, Martin Ineichen, Erwin Krebs, Heinz Schudel and me. From the Quebrada Ishinca we made the following ascents: Urus Este (17,782 fee...
Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. A British expedition comprising Carole Feldman, Peter Hawksworth, Cath Walton, and I made 11 first ascents in the region south of the Hutchinson Glacier. The landing site, logistically about as far as a Tw...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A French expedition of Chamonix guides was led by Serge Koenig and composed of Denis Ducroz, Hervé Thivièrge, Alain Payot, Jean-Paul Chassagne, Marc Galy, Daniel Audibert and Jean-Paul Balmat. They had hoped to broadcas...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE, EQUIPMENT— BOOTS, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 30, 1985, two male employees (early 20s) from Jackson Lake Lodge were descending the snow fields below South Teton when one of them lost control o...
Cerro Fitz Roy, north face. During January Frenchmen Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson, and Lionel Pouzadoux climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy. They spent a total of six days working on the route and fixed ropes to pit...