Batian, Mount Kenya, Diamond Face. Miguel Angel Gallego and Miguel Gómez made a new route with three bivouacs on the Diamond Face of Batian in February.Jordi Pons, Club Montañés Barcelonés, Spain
Shaqsha, South-Southeast Face. On May 23, Xavier Carrard, Abel Calana, Juan Morales, Marcos Niño, Franco Obando, Hector Reyes, César Vargas and Aritza made a possible first ascent with their route Feliz Cumpleaños Momo (85° IV+, 700m) on the south...
Eiger, North Face. On September 20 Steve Shea and I completed the 1938 route on the north face of the Eiger. We found perfect ice climbing conditions, wearing crampons from the Hinterstoisser traverse to the top. We had two bivouacs, one at the Sw...
South Atrak Zom, Istor-o-Nal Group. The expedition of the Sapporo Medical University was led by Masaji Matsuura and composed of Toshio Murata, Akira Nishio and Tetsuhiko Nakamura. From Base Camp at 14,100 feet at the tongue of the South Atrak Glac...
The north-south ridge between Ambush and Raid contains a lot of rock. A long, attractive east-facing slab two buttresses north of M Buttress, two buttresses south of Raid, lured us in. On August 28 Felix Hörmann and I started at the lowest t...
Garden of the Gods. On North Gateway, the old bolt ladder, The Zipper, was free-climbed by Jeff Britt and me (150 feet, 5.11). The pitch involves sustained face climbing up a steep prow, with ten protection bolts and drilled angles remaining on th...
FALL ON ROCK-RAPPEL ERROR, DARKNESSUtah, Zion National Park, GrasshopperOn October 8, Eric Wehrly (33) and his partner Ian Whyte were rappelling the final 80 feet from the climb named Grasshopper when this incident occurred. Wehrly was the first o...
Mount Badham Region. An Arctic Institute of North America party under my leadership established in early July a new scientific camp on the 10,000-foot glacier south of Mount Badham. It is located at 60° 48' N, 139° 50' W, 100 yards from the southe...
SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, BAD WEATHERWashington, Mount ShuksanOn October 3, 1983, Gary Lum (32) was descending with his climbing partner, Len Sederhahn, when he slipped just below the summit and fell an estimated 100 meters, sustaining head ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO HELMET AND NO CLIMBING SHOESColorado, Eldorado State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 14, Kirk Chynoweth (31) was soloing Redguard on Red Garden Wall when he fell about ...
Spokane Mountaineers. Membership has continued to increase during the year as have the number of club activities. President Gene Gibbs with a team of six held an effective climbing school for 60 students in the spring December saw the completion o...
BRIEFER MENTIONTerra Ladina, by Hermann Hiltbrunner. 72 pages of text, with 53 full-page illustrations from photographs by Michael Wolfgen- singer. Zürich: Scientia Verlag, 1944.This is a picture book, now in its second edition, revealing the beau...
Condoriri, West Ridge of West Peak. On June 14 Roger and Elspeth Whewell, John Hudson and I climbed the west ridge of the west peak of Condoriri in four hours on excellent ice. The west peak has two summits, both the western summit and the ridge w...
Torre de la Media Luna. This tower rises between El Mocho and Cerro Torre. It was first climbed on February 4 by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley in seven pitches (5.10c, Al).Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano
Emperor Face, historical note. Nearly forgotten, in 1974 Pat Callis and Jim Kanzler made the first significant attempt at the then-unclimbed Emperor Face, climbing high on the face through a feature they called the “Jaws.” Callis recalls their att...
FALL OFF TRAIL/ROCKMaine, Baxter State ParkOn May 25, 1985, Dennis Crouse (38) and a Post 507 Explorer Scouts group had hiked up the Melon Taylor Trail to Pannola and then proceeded to Chimney Peak. While coming off the southwest side of the peak,...
Ils ont conquis l’Himalaya by Bernard Pierre. Paris: Pion, 1979. 243 pages, 61 photographs, half of them in color.Bernard Pierre knows the high mountains of the world, having among other things led the successful expedition to Nun in 1953 and havi...
Tirich Mir West I. Our expedition was made up of Salvador Boix, Joan Hugas, Pere Planas, Josep Aliu and me as leader. After a four-day approach from Lunku, we placed Base Camp on July 18 at 15,425 feet on the moraine on the right bank of the Upper...
Spanish Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. The seven members of the Valencian Arctic Expedition, Dr. Vicente Manglano Baldovi, Enrique Torres Ochoa, Héctor Verdu Pastor, Baldomero Brugarolas Munuera, Amadeo Botella Sanjaime, Angel Tebar ...
Climbs in Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks and Preserves. A number of expeditions reached the mountains in these parks from Yakutat. The south ridge of Mount Augusta is covered in a full article. Ken Brown and Alan Camplejohn made...