Trango II (6,327m), southwest ridge (Severance Ridge), not to summit. Trango II is the major snow-capped peak immediately north of Trango Tower and Trango Monk. Between August 15 and 19 Jonathon Clearwater (New Zealand), Samuel Johnson (U.S.), and...
GARY SILVER 1947-1988Gary Silver was bom in Oakland, Nebraska. He graduated from the University of Nebraska, at Lincoln, with a degree in civil engineering. During his college days, he visited the Colorado Rockies and developed a love for the moun...
Cat’s Ears, Epica Direct. In mid-August Cedar Wright and I realized a wild line that corkscrewed around the Cat’s Ears towers (ca 18,250'). We climbed in alpine style over two days from a high camp, with one nauseous, headachy shiver bivy 500' bel...
War Below Zero; The Battle for Greenland, by Bernt Balchen, Corey Ford and Oliver Lafarge, with a foreword by General H. H. Arnold, 8vo.; 127 pages, with 15 full pages of illustrations from photographs and an end-paper map. Boston: Houghton Miffli...
While sitting atop the summits of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in 1960, the late Bill Buckingham noted a particularly fine group of peaks 20 miles farther to the south. The central peak of this group is Mount Nirvana, which at 9,097 feet is the ...
TABLE III1951-921959-9219931993USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock30453549613Snow1879280316Ice1626958River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent27593779018Descent1701257398Unknown242131Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1988186729Slip on snow or ice692138...
Denali on One LegMatthew KernsTALKEETNA’S MAIN STREET was awash with puddles of winter run-off when the Tripod Expedition arrived at the end of April. Our first stop was Doug Geeting’s office for a confirmation of our flight to Kahiltna Base. When...
Dangerous Steps: Vernon Tejas and the Solo Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley. Lewis Freedman. Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, 1990. 200 pages. Paperback. $14.95.To introduce Vem Tejas, the author Lewis Freedman writes, “Heroes … do not co...
If you’re headed to Baruntse to seek a plumb line on a cleaved face, it’ll be techy, heady, whatever you want. If you want off, it’ll be scary. If you want in, it’ll cost you about $6,000. If you want the top, be prepared for a few goes. That’s wh...
Torre Egger’s Southeast FaceSilvo Karo, Domžale Alpine Club, YugoslaviaALL THREE OF US, Janez Jeglic, Franc Knez and I, had been to Patagonia twice before. In 1983 we had made the first ascent of the great dihedral on Fitz Roy’s east face and a ne...
Kangri Garpo Range, exploration and naming of peaks. In spring 2001, the Fukuoka Section of the Japanese Alpine Club dispatched a reconnaissance survey team to the Kangri Garpo Range in Eastern Tibet. Many previously unknown peaks were named with ...
Massif of Tsast Uul-Tsambagarev. Italians Gianni Pais Becher, Gastone Lorenzini and Elziro Molin climbed in western Mongolia in June and July. In late June, they first climbed Tsast Uul (4250 meters, 13,944 feet), the second highest peak in Mongol...
SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, BAD WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. RobsonG. Holdsworth and D. McClung reached the top of the Kain Face on Mt. Robson at 8 a.m. on July 21, 1979. As they reached the top of the face, whiteout condi...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve, University RangeJames Haberl (41) from Whistler, BC, Keith Reid, and Graeme Taylor were climbing in the University Range of Wrangell St. Elias National Park and Preserve. The climbers...
Cuerno Principale, East Face. It was reported that a team of young Germans from Neu Elm climbed the previously unattempted east face of Cuerno Principale (2450 m) above the Pingo Valley. Rockfall down the center of the wall forced the team to the ...
Accidents in the Alps. It is with profound regret that we here report the loss in 1947 of three distinguished younger members of the Alpine Club (London). J. E. Q. Barford, Honorary Secretary of the British Mountaineering Council and author of Cli...
North Face of Mt. Edwards, Ascent. Chris Trimble and I hiked in to an igloo constructed at Lower Snyder Lake late in the evening on April 2. At 7 a.m. the next morning, we were looking up at the north face of Mt. Edwards immediately above Upper Sn...
Ganesh III. An expedition of four Japanese and three Nepalese led by Ken Kanazawa climbed the northeast ridge to the north ridge of Ganesh III, the same route attempted in 1980 by a Japanese-Nepalese party. They established three camps, the highes...
Ananea, North Face and Other Ascents. From a base near lake Trapiche and one high camp, Alain Besson, Pierre Bossy and Serge Marjolin, members of a Megève expedition, made the first ascent on June 1 of the north face of Ananea (5824 meters, 19,111...
Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents. Alan Hinkes (U.K.) summitted two 8000ers during the 1996 season: Gasherbrum I on July 10 at 10 a.m. and Gasherbrum II on July 29 at 4 p.m. Hinkes was part of an Austrian expedition led by Wilfried Studer.Asem Mustafa ...