Forbidden Peak, Northeast Face. Taking advantage of a spell of fine weather late in the season, Stuart Ferguson and I left at six a.m. on September 15, following the Boston Mine trail to attempt the northeast face direct from the Boston Glacier. W...

K2, Various Activity. K2 (8611m), which had not seen an ascent since August, 1997, saw 25 climbers reaching the summit, the most since 1996. It was reported that all ascents were made via either the Abruzzi Ridge or South-Southeast Spur routes. Ni...

Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Southwest Ridge Ascents. Swiss Norbert Joos led an international group of six Swiss, a German and a Briton. They ascended the normal southwest ridge as follows: Swiss Diego Wellig, Hans Jörg Bumann and Martin Fischer on Oc...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FALL INTO MOAT Washington, Olympic MountainsOn July 10, 1988, after descending about 30 meters from the summit of The Brother, I stepped into a footstep made by my sons who were descending immediately ahead of ...

Annapurna Ascent and Tragedy in Autumn and Winter Attempt. A 19-man Bulgarian expedition led jointly by Todor Grigorov and Ivan Vylchev intended to climb Annapurna by the Messner route but switched to the Dutch route. They set up Base Camp at 4200...

Stanford Alpine Club. Besides the weekend practice climbs on local rocks in which dynamic belaying is stressed, the Club climbed in Yosemite, Pinnacles National Monument, and Castle Crags. Two new routes were made in Yosemite, one up the face of E...

Eye on Everest; A Sketch Book from the Great Everest Expedition, by Charles Evans. 123 pages of black and white sketches with brief explanatory notes. London: Dennis Dobson, Ltd. Price 12s. 6d.Everest has been climbed only once actually, but it se...

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Section members climbed in many parts of the world during 1960. In Africa Jack Graham climbed the two summits of both Kilimanjaro and Kenya and the peaks over 16,000 feet in the Ruwenzori; and A1 Baxter led a success...

Satopanth. The members of our expedition were Santiago Arribas Pérez, leader, Dr. César Alfaro, Santiago Gómez, Francisco Soría, Alfonso Juez, Estaban López, Julio Fernández, Eduardo Fernández, Avelino Mora, Jesús Acaso, Pedro Exposito, Manuel Ser...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT California, Tahquitz Rock, ConsolationOn July 4, 1992, I was about 25 feet into the third pitch of our climb when I came off. Two pieces that I had placed failed. One was a small Metolius tri-cam unit a few feet...

Uli Biaho Spire. A New Zealand expedition was made up of leader Nicholas Craddock, Guy Cotter, Paul Rogers and Murray Judge. In July, they climbed the Uli Biaho Spire, although we do not know by which route. Details have not yet reached us.

Sickle Moon Tragedy. A nine-member team of the Japanese Self Defense Force was led by Lieutenant Colonel Fumio Yunoki and included two women. They reached Kishtwar on July 7, trekked through Kiyar, the last village, and set up Base Camp at the sno...

Italian Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota and the Cordillera Carabaya. Piero Ghiglione, now 76 years old, with the Peruvian porter, Fortunato Mautino climbed Sahuasiray (17,060 feet) on June 12 and made the first ascents of Huautinsuyo (16,40...

Colorado, Little Bear—On September 1, 1956, a warm cloudless day with no wind, a party of five climbers (Mark Bostwick, David and Paul Duncan, Ben Rhodes and Banks Caywood) left the Denver Junior Summer Outing camp site at Como Lake to climb Blanc...

Piramidalny and Other Peaks, Pamir Alai. It was not difficult to get to the region. The Russians tooks us in a helicopter. The cirque of towers was lovely with great possibilites of new routes, although the granite was not always of the best quali...

Peaks Between the Kahiltna Glacier and Spink Lake. From the Kahiltna Glacier, Roger Robinson and I traversed over to the Granite Creek Glacier to explore its upper regions and then continue east. We climbed P 5610 on our way over to the Kanikula G...

Everest, north face, new route. Elizabeth Hawley’s account of the Russian new route on the north face of Everest, along with commentary from Yuri Koshelenko, a team member, is in the Tibet section of this AAJ.

ASAHEL CURTIS1874-1941Asahel Curtis was one of the small but devoted group of outdoor idealists who founded the Seattle Mountaineers. He led their first three summer outings, creating a climbing technique through which a few skilled climbers could...

Pt. 6,190m and Pt. ca 5,754m, first ascents. Two members of the Kumamoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club, Koichi Kato and Makiji Kiso, made a reconnaissance of Yakawa Kang (6,482m), the peak immediately north of the Thorang La and first offici...

Mount Kilimanjaro, Hein Glacier, Snowboard Attempt. Wade McKoy and I climbed to 17,000 feet on the Hein Glacier route, which proved much steeper and icier than the photos in the guide showed. We lost a lot of time by belaying most of the route and...