Sunrise Wall. This is the prominent east-facing granite wall just above the trail to Nelson Lake, across the divide from Tuolomne Meadows. Karl Kaiyala, Reed Cundiff, and I made the first climb of the wall on October 13, 1974 after fixing the firs...
A GEOLOGIST IN THE ARCTICOur member, Fred H. Roots, is one of our very few professional geologists with Arctic, Antarctic, and high mountain experience. After studying at the University of British Columbia, summers’ field work with the Canadian go...
Pinnacle Peak. Harry Bowron, Hugh Ewing, Kirk Keogh and I were landed in early May on the glacier below the northeast face of Pinnacle Peak (12,184 feet). Our objective was the first ascent of the east ridge, which we climbed in two weeks, after f...
FALL ON SNOW, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXPOSUREAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 16, 1990, the three member “Washington Square” party of Mary Koshuta, Michael Koshuta (33) and Stuart Jones (29) flew into the 2200 meter basecamp onMount McKinley. Their obj...
Chegem Valley, Ice Climbing Exploration. In February, an ice climbing expedition led by Alexander Kopylov made a reconnaissance of waterfall ice climbing possibilities in the Central Caucasus. It was the first time ice climbers had explored the Ch...
Nanga Parbat Attempts. There were two other expeditions to Nanga Parbat in 1987, both unsuccessful. Spaniards led by Javier Bermejo were on the Diamir Face and Japanese under the leadership of Hitoshi Tamada attempted the Rupal Face.
Annapurna IV. Our honorary member, Dr. R. Charles Evans, with Dennis P. Davis, supported by only four Sherpas, made the second ascent of Annapurna IV (24,688 feet) on May 5, 1957 from a Camp IV at 23,000 feet. Dr. Evans had been with Tilman’s part...
Mt. Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. An unprecedented total number of teams, 57, managed to send an unprecedented number of people, 133, to the 8850-meter top of the world in the premonsoon. The previous largest total of Everest summiters had been 120 ...
Annapurna Solo Attempt. South Tyrolean Reinhard Patscheider hoped to make a solo ascent of Annapurna by the northwest face, which he knew from having been a member of Messner’s successful expedition on it in the spring of 1985; Patscheider did not...
Ango. Felix Golling, German, Tom Hardy, American, Keith Woodford, Australian, and I approached Ango (16,811 feet) from the Quebrada Pajush and climbed the snow slopes on the northwest shoulder to reach its summit on August 13, 1974, ascending from...
Abi Gamin Ascent and Kamet Attempt. Our team consisted of Miss Maharookh Gowadia, Miss Medha Bapat, Dr. Suneel Vartak, Jitendra Hande, Prasad Mhatre, Rajesh Gadgil and me as leader. We established Base Camp on Vasudhava Tal at 15,400 feet on May 2...
Ama Dablam, Winter Ascents and Attempt. There were four expeditions on Ama Dablam in December of 1993, all on the normal southwest ridge. A South Korean expedition led by Yoon Kwang may be punished by the Nepalese authorities for completing almost...
North Face of the Matterhorn. This climb was repeated twice this past summer, a season favorable to its execution, the rocks being consolidated by much snow and ice. On July 16th and 18th, Josef Schmidbauer and Ludwig Leiss made the climb, spendin...
Diamond, Diamond Lil Route, Longs Peak. During two July days Michael Covington, Dennis Hennek and I climbed a new route on the highest part of the Diamond Face of Longs Peak. It is a line wholly independent of others on this face and goes up betwe...
Shakhaur-Nadir Shah Traverse. The Kraków Academic Alpine Club expedition ascended Shakhaur (23,347 feet) by a new route. Between July 11 and 22 we acclimatized in the Kohe Zebak group. On July 23 we reached the village of Shakhaur in the Wakhan an...
Ocypete, Twaharpies Group, 1977. A seven-man Japanese party climbed Ocypete (13,550 feet) from Base Camp on the Russell Glacier at 8200 feet with Advanced Base at 10,000 feet and Camp I at 10,350 feet. They all reached the summit on April 25 and 2...
The lure of untouched walls amidst classic alpine peaks once again supplanted senses of propriety and self-preservation as we returned to the Tatina Glacier in June. There was the air of a class reunion as Andy Embick, Alan Long, Randy Cerf and I ...
CLIMBING ALONE, IMPROPER EQUIPMENT—California, Mt. Shasta. Some time on the 15th of September, John Saulsberry (55) attempted a climb of Mt. Shasta from the ski bowl. On the evening of the 15th and 16th an early storm hit the area, dropping large ...
Monte Buckland, Tierra del Fuego. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Carlo Mauri made in February the first ascent of extremely difficult Monte Buckland (5905 feet), which rises above the Straits of Magellan. Other members of the party ...
Yuzhu Feng, Eastern Kunlun, Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Yasuji and Kimio Moriyama, Hiroaki Tokuda, Yasuji Wakita, Yasuo Ota and me as leader. We arrived at Xining via Beijing on July 23. On July 25, we left Xining by jeep and drove thr...