Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Azara and Cerro Bravo

CerroAzara and Cerro Bravo. These two summits are located just north of Paso del Viento, and are linked by a shallow ridge. Cerro Azara (1,950m) was first climbed in March 1916 by Alfredo Kolliker and Lutz Witte. On December 6 Spaniards José Ferná...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Inadequate Area Security, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE AREA SECURITY California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn October 16, 1988, at 1415, a rock was dislodged and fell about 15 meters, striking two individuals—Pat Teague (40) and Pam Viviano (19). This accident occurred in G...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Everest Attempt and Tragedy

Everest Attempt and Tragedy. We were Y. Miyaji, S. Ishii, M. Nagamachi, S. Shimada, T. Sasaki, K. Hoshino, K. Ohta, Ms. M. Hasegawa, Ms. Y. Tanaka and I as leader. Our initial plan was to reach the peak on October 1, Chinese Foundation Day, I solo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Caullaraju, Raria, Huandoy and Aguja Nevada Groups, 1972

Caullaraju, Raria, Huandoy and Aguja Nevada Groups, 1973. (Details missing in A.A.J., 1974, p. 177 are found here.—Editor.) The Torun section of the Polish Mountaineering Club was composed of Tadeusz Laukajtys, leader, Roman Gutkowski, Witold Jurk...


Accident Reports ANAM
California—Two Miles Northwest of Ladder Lake in the Black Divide, Bishop Area

California—two miles northwest of Ladder Lake in the Black Divide, Bishop Area: Charles Bays Locker (21) took three younger boys, Gary (13) and Karl (15) Hufbauer and Donald Albright (17) on a high trip into the Bishop Area. Bays was a member of t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Gigante Grande, West Face, Quimsa Cruz

Gigante Grande, West Face, Quimsa Cruz. In July, Argentine Teo Plaza and Spaniard Iñaqui San Vicente made the first ascent of the west face of Gigante Grande. The 650-meter-high face had mixed climbing of UIAA V difficulty and ice up to 75°.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Poor Position, Exceeding Abilities, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park

FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn August 23 at noon, Marcus Hall (30) took a five meter leader fall from La Chaim, a 5.7 route on the Pear. Hall slipped while he was attempting to clip the fir...


Club Activities AAJ
Spokane Mountaineers

Spokane Mountaineers. Growing interest in skiing activity and active recruiting of climbing school students swelled club membership to 90 in 1957. A well-planned series of evening classes and field practice sessions was conducted by the climbing c...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table II Accident Rate and Mortality Rate for Mountaineers in United States and Alaska

Table IIAccident Rate and Mortality Rate for Mountaineers in United States and AlaskaAgeGroupAv. reported man mountain days/yr.Av. No. reported mountaineerint accidents/yr.Accident rate per 1000 1 reported man mountain daysAv. No.recorded deaths d...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Peak 12,960+, South Face, Zig-Zag Dihedral

Peak 12,960+, South Face, Zig-Zag Dihedral. This peak has also been referred to as Peak 13,016 and Peak 3985 meters. Its large south face, about one mile west of the South Face of Lone Pine Peak, already had two long routes, done by Rowell, Jones ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route, Fall on Rock — Protection Pulled When Weighted, Inadequate Protection, Complacency California, Yosemite Valley, Half Dome

On May 31, Maeve Devlin (19) and I, John-Mark Toth (22), hiked up to the classic Snake Dike route. From the base of the climb I led up the polished, low angle fourth class section to the 5.7 traverse that goes left under the roof. Here I placed ...

| Published 2011


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6702 or Vasuki Parbat South, 1988

P6702 or VasukiParbatSouth, 1988. Italians Massimo Marchegianni, Tiziano Cantalamessa and Marcello Ceci made the first ascent of P 6702 (21,988 feet), which lies just south of Vasuki Parbat. They climbed the east face alpine-style in four days and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Olympics, Mount Pershing from the East

Mount Pershing from the East. This early season climb was first done in May from the end of the extended Jefferson Lake road by Roy Etten, Robert Woods, Jack Christensen and Don Bechlem. Route finding was the only problem.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Damodar Himal, Pokharkan, First Ascent of the South Face

Pokharkan, first ascent of the south face. The Alpine Club Damodar expedition was led by Steve Town with Dick Isherwood as deputy. Other members were David Baldock, John Fairley, Toto Gronlund, Martin Scott, Pete and Sara Spillet, Bill Thurston, a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Makrong Chhish Attempt and Tragedy

Makrong Chhish Attempt and Tragedy. Steve Hillen, Mike Penlington, Dave Tyson and I traveled on June 16 with three jeeps along the Karakoram Highway from Gilgit to Nagar. At Nagar, 30 porters were hired. The jeeps continued to Huru, the furthest j...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Baboquivari Peak, Southeast Buttress Chimney

Baboquivari Peak, Southeast Buttress Chimney. This dominant pyramidal peak is located 60 miles southwest of Tucson. The southeast buttress chimney is a prominent crack which rises 650 feet from a diagonal ledge that cuts the east face and ends in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Thalay Sagar Attempt

Thalay Sagar Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Jordi Camprubi, Fredi Puig, Joan Vila, Toti Llobera and me as leader. We attempted to make the fourth ascent of the northeast ridge, first climbed by Norwegians and Poles in 1983. We placed Base ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Ocshapalca, South Face

Ocshapalca, South Face. It was reported that Spanish climbers Belta Fonseca and Rafa Santesteban climbed a new route, Insumisioa, on the steep and fluted south face of Ocshapalca (5881 meters). The 600-meter route has sections of 90° ice. (High Mo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Poor Position, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, POOR POSITIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment PeakOn July 17, 1992, at 1615, a climber (29) was descending the Lake Ledges route on Disappointment Peak when he fell as he was attempting to glis...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal - Khumbu Section, Amphu South (6,146m), West Face; Amphuy Middle (6,238m), North Face and Northwest Ridge; Nuptse East (7,795m), South Face, Attempt; Lhotse (8,516m), South Face Attempt

Amphu South (6,146m), west face; Amphu Middle (6,238m), north face and northwest ridge; Nuptse East (7,795m), south face, attempt; Lhotse (8,516m), south face, attempt. Before going to Nepal I read about the climbers who had dared to try the south...