Iowa Mountaineers. In 1950 the Club enjoyed its largest membership—1322. The budget permitted purchase of essential new equipment, including a Club bus of special design and two 16-mm. cameras. Five 16-mm. color films of Club expeditions were edit...
Noshaq and Neighboring Peaks. On July 7 Ambros and Anton Aich- horn, Günter Brenner, Oswald Kollreider, Herbert Müller and I as leader left Austria in a VW bus and a VW bug for the 5000-mile trip, which went without a hitch. In Kabul, the Afghan c...
MARGARET YOUNG 1932–1979Margaret Young, an AAC member since 1973, died of cancer on June 17, 1979, after a 27-year mountaineering career including climbs in the U.S.A., Canada, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Kenya, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia, Nepal, and...
Aconcagua, Mobitel’s Swallow-Johan’s Route. Slovene mountaineers Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua by a new route in the last days of December. The new route is dedicated to Humar’s late partner Janez Jeglic, who suff...
Deltaform Mountain, North Face. Certain mountains grab us when we first see them; they remain with us until we can work them out of our system. Such was the 4000-foot north face of Deltaform Mountain, and the sinuous ice couloir that works its way...
Peaks in the Lindberg Bjerge; Cathedral and Other Peaks in the Lemon Bjerge. Our expedition was composed of Gary Baum, Luke Bartlett, Luke Hughes, Robin Illingworth, William Pelkey, Michael Woolridge and me as leader. We landed at 68°54'N, 32°08'W...
Ghul Lasht Zom South, Spanish Ascent. A Spanish expedition was composed of Fernando Martínez Perez. César Pérez de Tudela, Angel González, Carlos Romero, Francisco Caro and Elena de Pablo. The first four reached the summit (c.21,000 feet) from Cam...
The Lure of the CanyonlandsJohn HarlinTo THE MODERN rock climber, the possibilities for ascending new routes seem to be diminishing rapidly. People have visited just about every scraggly crag—and to pluck a new gem often requires 1) intimate knowl...
AVALANCHEColorado, Little Bear Peak, Standard Hourglass RouteOn January 10 around 1100, a male (22) and his sister (20) were climbing Little Bear Peak via the Standard West Ridge Hourglass Route. Weather conditions for several days had been mostly...
ALBERT H. MacCARTHY1876-1956Albert H. MacCarthy, who died last October after an illness of more than a year, was one of the most rugged mountaineers of our time. At forty-eight and forty-nine he led the reconnaissance, winter freighting trip, and ...
The past year, 1953, with which this report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club deals was an average year when compared with previous years. The total number of accidents and deaths resulting from “mountaineering” activities which ...
The Mountains of IcelandHenry A. PerkinsIT was a combination of Jules Verne and hay fever that was responsible for my first trip to Iceland in the summer of 1900. Reading A Journey to the Center of the Earth as a boy had created an urge to see tha...
Ishinca and. Urus. The group I guided was prevented from doing higher climbs by unsafe snow conditions. We did make the following climbs: Ishinca Chico (17,142 feet) by Antoinette Thomasson, French; Fred Gredig, Robert Britschgi, Hugo Flüler, Erns...
FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alaska, Mount ForakerOn June 8, 1991, while descending an icy couloir on approach to the Infinite Spur on the south side of Mount Foraker, William McConachie (McC—39) fell and, unable to self-arrest...
A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond. Jim Whittaker. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 24 color photos, 50 black-and-white photos. 272 pages. $24.95.The superb description by Jon Krakauer of the tragedy on Mt. Everest has increased the aud...
This is the forty-seventh issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the sixteenth that has been done jointly with the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: This year's data reflects a substantial increase in the ...
FROM JULY 13 to 20, Austrian Robert Schauer and I from Poland climbed the virgin west face of Gasherbrum IV to the top of the wall, though we did not get to the very summit. The descent was completed from July 20 to 23 via the north ridge. The 2,5...
Everest: The Ultimate Challenge 1922-1982. A stereo sound history of sixty years of struggle to climb the world’s highest mountain. Quarry Lane Productions, P.O. Box 1237, Alexandria, Ontario KOC 1AO $9.99 (U.S.) including postage.If one can cut t...
Texas Canyon, Lone Star. On November 10, Jon Butler, Jesse Harvey and I made the first ascent of Lone Star, a 460-foot tower located just 400 feet northwest of Texas Tower, in Texas Canyon. Jon and Jesse had fixed two pitches on a previous trip to...
East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6,789 m), first or second ascent? The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an all ladies expedition to Argan Kangri in the Arganglas range east of the Nubra Valley. It was led by IMF Vice-President Rita Gombu Ma...