Mount Sir AlexanderNewman D. WafflMT. SIR ALEXANDER has been the subject of considerable notice, partly because of its isolated location and partly because of the difficulties which seemed to surround its ascent. Situated almost at the northern en...
Peruvian ascents. Peruvians continue to climb more actively each year. In the Cordillera Central, J. Escobar, A. Soriano, M. Arroyo, F. Schlister and S. Hidalgo made the first ascent of Mishipañahui (17,881 feet) on June 2; this peak lies northeas...
Kang Guru Attempt. A 10-man Japanese expedition was led by Shozo Kikuchi. They established Base Camp, Camp I and Camp III at 14,775, 18,050 and 21,500 feet on March 20, 28 and April 15 respectively. They attempted the northwest ridge of Kang Guru ...
K6. At the beginning of June our young expedition (average age 24) from the Academic Section, Vienna, of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) arrived in Pakistan. We were Dietmar Entlesberger, Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken, Helmut Krech, Eric...
Mt. Foresta, East Ridge to north peak and altitude note. On May 3, Erik Monasterio and I landed at 4,040' on the Hubbard Glacier, courtesy of Paul Swanstrom from Haines. Conditions were unusual, with crevasse lines extending into the glacier and a...
Absaroka RangeAn ascent of Pilot Peak (11,740 ft.) located in N. W. Park County, Wyo., was made September 15th by George Haas, John Makowski, and the writer from a camp directly W. of Index Peak and 5 miles S. E. of Cooke City, Mont. The approach ...
Trango: The Nameless Tower, by Jim Curran. Sheffield, England: Dark Peak, 1978. 175 pages, 42 pages of black-and-white photos; 16 color plates. £6.95.Here is a climb that deserved a better book.The climb was the first ascent in 1976 of the “Namele...
Kiukiurtliu, Lukashbili Route. Climbers from Dagistan chose Kiukiurtliu, a mountain located on the southeastern spur of Mt. Elbrus (4.5 kilometers from the west summit), for their entry in the high altitude class of the Russian Climbing Championsh...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The Scientific Expedition of the University of Shizuoka was led by Ryuichi Tsuchi and composed of Ryozo Yamamoto, Mayumi Takahashi, Takeshi Sugimoto, Tom Wada, Kinya Ota, Hiroshi Ando, and Dr. Asaji Kokue. They collec...
Various first descents and possible first ascents. Inspired by our friend Nevada Christianson and her quest to solo Mt. Logan s East Ridge, Trevor Hunt and I found ourselves wandering the giant glaciers of Kluane Reserve like ski safari nomads. On...
A Middle-Aged MountainRICHARD N. MEYERSome mountains seem particularly ancient, austere, and noble. Others seem hard and young and defiant. But in 1955 I ran across a mountain which I can only think of as middle-aged. The glittering array of snow-...
Shiprock’s East FaceCameron M. BurnsIN THE LATE 1980s, LUKE LAESER and I began collecting information, stories and even perceptions about climbing on the Navajo Reservation. We were surprised with what we learned.My first experience on Navajolands...
Mount Everest, Solo, by the Great Couloir. From the Tibetan side on August 20 at three P.M. Reinhold Messner became the first person to make the entire ascent of Mount Everest solo and the second non-Sherpa to climb the mountain by two different r...
Slesova, West-Southwest Face, Fiamma d’Oriente. Andrea Zanetti, Cristoforo Groaz and Giorgio Pancheri (Italy) opened a 1300-meter route, Fiamma d’Oriente (7 A3+), on the West-Southwest face of Pik Slesova (Russian Tower, 4240 m) in the Ak-Su Valle...
Washington: Northern Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck. In August 1949 five high school boys from Renton were on a fishing trip to Lake 22, on the east shoulder of this peak. While they were traversing a steep snow field above the lake, the boys, all of whom...
Though climbing has been going on in Baffin Island since at least 1934, and in earnest since the early 1970s, it wasn’t until 1994 that the world was formally introduced to the vast untapped climbing potential on the island’s east coast. Eugene Fi...
In July the second expedition of the Polish Apolobamba Exploration Project visited the Huancasayani Valley. The first, in 2009, reported in AAJ 2010, included Wojciech Chaladaj, Jakub Galka, and me. This time I was accompanied by Filip Drozdz, T...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. 1997 brought the Sierra Nevada Section continued growth and success spiced with daunting new challenges. With the addition of western Nevada to our geographic region plus an increasing number of Southern Californians wa...
SUDDEN DEATH - NEAR DENALI PASSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 2200 on July 7, Ranger John Loomis received a call on the emergency call out phone from ranger Kevin Wright at the 14,200-foot camp. Wright reported that he had received FRS ra...
At Grips with Jannu, by Jean Franco and Lionel Terray. Translated by Hugh Merrick. London: Victor Gollancz Limited, 1967. 192 pages; 60 photographs.“When Jannu huffs, nothing is left. That is why there are no longer any Yetis in the area. That is ...