Garden of the Gods. On North Gateway, the old bolt ladder, The Zipper, was free-climbed by Jeff Britt and me (150 feet, 5.11). The pitch involves sustained face climbing up a steep prow, with ten protection bolts and drilled angles remaining on th...

FALL ON ROCK-RAPPEL ERROR, DARKNESSUtah, Zion National Park, GrasshopperOn October 8, Eric Wehrly (33) and his partner Ian Whyte were rappelling the final 80 feet from the climb named Grasshopper when this incident occurred. Wehrly was the first o...

Mount Badham Region. An Arctic Institute of North America party under my leadership established in early July a new scientific camp on the 10,000-foot glacier south of Mount Badham. It is located at 60° 48' N, 139° 50' W, 100 yards from the southe...

SLIP ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, BAD WEATHERWashington, Mount ShuksanOn October 3, 1983, Gary Lum (32) was descending with his climbing partner, Len Sederhahn, when he slipped just below the summit and fell an estimated 100 meters, sustaining head ...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–NO HELMET AND NO CLIMBING SHOESColorado, Eldorado State Park, Red Garden WallOn September 14, Kirk Chynoweth (31) was soloing Redguard on Red Garden Wall when he fell about ...

Spokane Mountaineers. Membership has continued to increase during the year as have the number of club activities. President Gene Gibbs with a team of six held an effective climbing school for 60 students in the spring December saw the completion o...

BRIEFER MENTIONTerra Ladina, by Hermann Hiltbrunner. 72 pages of text, with 53 full-page illustrations from photographs by Michael Wolfgen- singer. Zürich: Scientia Verlag, 1944.This is a picture book, now in its second edition, revealing the beau...

Condoriri, West Ridge of West Peak. On June 14 Roger and Elspeth Whewell, John Hudson and I climbed the west ridge of the west peak of Condoriri in four hours on excellent ice. The west peak has two summits, both the western summit and the ridge w...

Torre de la Media Luna. This tower rises between El Mocho and Cerro Torre. It was first climbed on February 4 by Mark Houston and Kathy Cosley in seven pitches (5.10c, Al).Silvia Metzeltin Buscaini, Club Alpino Italiano

Emperor Face, historical note. Nearly forgotten, in 1974 Pat Callis and Jim Kanzler made the first significant attempt at the then-unclimbed Emperor Face, climbing high on the face through a feature they called the “Jaws.” Callis recalls their att...

FALL OFF TRAIL/ROCKMaine, Baxter State ParkOn May 25, 1985, Dennis Crouse (38) and a Post 507 Explorer Scouts group had hiked up the Melon Taylor Trail to Pannola and then proceeded to Chimney Peak. While coming off the southwest side of the peak,...

Ils ont conquis l’Himalaya by Bernard Pierre. Paris: Pion, 1979. 243 pages, 61 photographs, half of them in color.Bernard Pierre knows the high mountains of the world, having among other things led the successful expedition to Nun in 1953 and havi...

Tirich Mir West I. Our expedition was made up of Salvador Boix, Joan Hugas, Pere Planas, Josep Aliu and me as leader. After a four-day approach from Lunku, we placed Base Camp on July 18 at 15,425 feet on the moraine on the right bank of the Upper...

Spanish Expedition to Schweizerland, East Greenland. The seven members of the Valencian Arctic Expedition, Dr. Vicente Manglano Baldovi, Enrique Torres Ochoa, Héctor Verdu Pastor, Baldomero Brugarolas Munuera, Amadeo Botella Sanjaime, Angel Tebar ...

Climbs in Wrangell-St. Elias and Glacier Bay National Parks and Preserves. A number of expeditions reached the mountains in these parks from Yakutat. The south ridge of Mount Augusta is covered in a full article. Ken Brown and Alan Camplejohn made...

After hiking to an advanced camp (4,900m) in the Ishinca Valley on October 16, Beto Pinto and Eric Albino began climbing the south face of Urus Central (5,495m). The initial 360m had loose snow and mixed climbing, to 80°, along with falling blo...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED,INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Arizona, SedonaOn October 6, 1987, Brian Green (19) was climbing a 5.7 route on the Courthouse Rock Fountain, and while attempting a final chimney near the top, he ...

Kangtega, Women’s Ascent. Our expedition climbed Kangtega largely by the same route after Camp I as the New Zealanders, who made the first ascent in 1963. We established Base Camp on April 24 at 4700 meters at the foot of the Kangtega Glacier. Bec...

Huandoy Sur, 11-second descent. In 1997 Frenchmen Jérôme Blanc-Gras and Yannick Graziani made the second ascent of the French Route (800m, 5+ A2+[New Wave], Desmaison-Faivre- Ottmann-Salomon, 1976) on the overhanging, shaded south face of Huandoy ...

Moose’s Tooth. In May Tim Auger, Mike Farrell, Ron Gilligan and I attempted the Moose’s Tooth via the Ruth Glacier-south col route. Although this route has been attempted many times, the Moose’s Tooth had still only one ascent—via the west ridge b...