Ihr Herren Berge, Menschen und Gipfel im Lande der Inka, by Günter Hauser. Stuttgart: Engelhornverlag, 1959. 256 pages; 46 ills, in black and white and 4 in color; 4 maps. Price DM 12.80.In the summer of 1957 a lightweight German expedition of the...
Troll Wall, Rimmon Route, First Female Solo Ascent. The route I did was the Rimmon Route. It is about 800 meters and 20 pitches long. In addition, one has to climb two pitches to get to the wall. I began my solo ascent on July 25, 1994, and spent ...
The Flame of Adventure. Simon Yates. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001. 220 pages, with 8 pages of color photos. $16.95What’s with these Brits? They climb so well, yet drink so hard, smoke so much and hurt themselves so often you wonder how go...
Canyonlands. In the Canyonlands, several new important climbs have been made on the larger spires. Undoubtedly the increased use of Friends in desert climbing will see more new and demanding free climbs in the near future. In April of 1979 several...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942—256—231—019—2196047—464—1237—819—41961...
Darrah-e-Abi, Central Hindu Kush. Three members of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, John Ashburner, Paul Newby and I, visited the Afghan Hindu Kush for two months. We drove across the Middle East in a Land-Rover, arriving in Kabul on ...
On June 23, Carlos Abad (26), Jane Tennessen (33), and Glen Tietgen (35), fell 816 feet from Muralla Grande, a massive face of granite east of Albuquerque. They were ascending a route called Warpy Moople (III, 5.9), a climb with eight pitches. T...
Cordillera Vilcanota—1969John RickerNaming of Andean Peaks. As previously suggested many times in this journal, local names for peaks should be sought out and used. Barring this, descriptive names in Quechua or at least Spanish are acceptable. Nam...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez Perce—On August 4, Tim Bond (24) and Sally Bond (23), in conjunction with Fritz Ermarth (19), Mike Ermarth (16), and Julie Peterson (30), were climbing the East Ridge of Nez Perce. Two other parties were als...
Watchtower, Northeast Face, Cirque of Towers. On June 27, Matt Hale and I made the first ascent of this fine, though by no means extreme, face. Ours seemed to be the easiest line, though others were obviously possible. From Cirque Lake climb the c...
Manaslu from the WestAKIRA TAKAHASHITranslated bv ICHIRO YOSHIZA WAMANASLU (26,760 feet), the first Japanese 8000er, was climbed from the east by the Japanese Alpine Club under the leadership of Yuko Maki in 1956 after previous attempts in 1953 an...
Changping Valley, Dorsal Peak, first ascent; Jiang Jun Feng, southwest ridge. On April 3 two friends and I found ourselves on top a previously unclimbed peak for the first time in our lives. This was not the culmination of a lengthy expedition to ...
What do you need for a good trip? A partner, a mountain, and a bit of luck? The first was easy. My climbing partnership with Nick Bullock had been forged over the last few years, strengthened through friendship, mutual respect, and trust in each o...
TABLE IIAccident and Mortality Rates for Mountaineers in National Parks, and National Monuments †1958-62Rates per 1000 registered climbers in parenthesesNumber of registered climbers36,375Number of persons involved in accidents 202 (5.6)Numberinju...
Peaks Above “Swan Lake”. Ten miles southeast of Maligne Lake the headwaters of the Brazeau River’s north fork coalesce into a two-mile-long lake. In early August Arnold Wexler, Morgan Broman, Frank Mettrick, Gene Boss, Lowell Putnam, Brad Swan and...
FALLING ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFFQuebec, Gatineau Park, Home CliffOn April 15, several climbers were top-roping on “Home Cliff” at the Luskville Escarpment. C.M. (33) had reached the top of his climb and was making his way above the other climbers ov...
The First Mountain Ascent in North AmericaORRIN H. BONNEYTHREE and a half centuries before Whymper made the first climb of the Matterhorn and four of his companions slipped to their death; and more than 250 years before Dr. Paccard ascended Mont B...
Jannu, French Route. The expedition consisted of four members: Rab Carrington, Brian Hall, Roger Baxter Jones and Alan Rouse. After a long walk in the monsoon rain we established Base Camp on the Yalung glacier, close to the site of the 1955 Kanch...
Mount Sir AlexanderNewman D. WafflMT. SIR ALEXANDER has been the subject of considerable notice, partly because of its isolated location and partly because of the difficulties which seemed to surround its ascent. Situated almost at the northern en...
Peruvian ascents. Peruvians continue to climb more actively each year. In the Cordillera Central, J. Escobar, A. Soriano, M. Arroyo, F. Schlister and S. Hidalgo made the first ascent of Mishipañahui (17,881 feet) on June 2; this peak lies northeas...