Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Masherbrun Mountains, Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent

Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent. We arrived in Hushe on June 19 and established Base Camp two days later at 4225 meters aside the Honboro Glacier at the base of Honboro Peak. After surveying the mountain, we decided th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Himalayas, 1953 Expeditions

Aspiring, by W. Scott Gilkison. 80 pages of text, including sketch maps and numerous illustrations. Christchurch, N. Z.: Whitcomb and Tombs, Ltd.Well written and attractively illustrated, this short book is about one of New Zealand’s finest mounta...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Jaca Peak (3,372m), Southeast Face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb Ridge

Jaca Peak (3,372m), southeast face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb ridge. On December 23 Chus (María Jesús) Lago and I attempted a new route on Vinson West face, but our backpacks were too hea...


Club Activities AAJ
Rensselaer Mountaineering Club

Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Spring activities of the Rensselaer Mountaineering Club consisted largely of rock-climbing trips to the Sha- wangunk cliffs with the accent on the development of leaders. The club’s annual ice climb of the dyke on M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, West Kokshaal-Tau, Kokshaal-Tau, Various Ascents

Kokshaal-Tau, Various Ascents. From July 18-August 26, the united team of Moscow district climbed in the West Kokshaal-Tau. The chief of the expedition was Boris Starostin; the trainers were Fedor Akhmatov, Valerii Boiko, Victor Efimov and Eugeny ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Off Route, Inadequate Protection, No Helmet, California, Mono County, Inyo National Forest, Third Pillar of Dana

FALL ON ROCK – OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HELMETCalifornia, Mono County, Inyo National Forest, Third Pillar of DanaOn August 30 Jeff Maurer (47) and Jo-Lynne DeNapoli (36) were planning on climbing the Regular Route of the Third Pillar o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Pungpa Ri Second Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt

Pungpa Ri Second Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt. Our expedition was a joint civilian and military operation with a 17-member climbing team led by Lieutenant Colonel Henry Day and a 12-member scientific team led by Colonel John Blashford-Snell. T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Wakhan Corridor, Koh-e-Bardar (6,078m), Previously Unreported First Ascent

Wakhan Corridor, Koh-e-Bardar (6,078m), previously unreported first ascent. In late spring 2005 Mark Jenkins and I spent two-and-a-half weeks in the Wakhan Corridor, traveling its entire length with Greg Mortenson to visit schools that Mortenson i...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite Valley

California, Yosemite Valley. On June 7th Mike Blake (age 19) and Jerry Vogler (33) were completing an ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. Vogler had reached the summit slabs at the top of the bolt ladder and tied off the rope to his second. Blake wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Shipton's Arch, First Ascent

Shipton’s Arch, First Ascent. In May, Sam Lightner, Nancy Feagin, Jeremy Schmidt, Gordon Wiltsie, and I went on a mini-adventure to revisit an arch originally introduced to the western world by Eric Shipton. The arch lies in the Kara Tagh, a tiny ...


Feature Article AAJ
West of the Divide

West of the DivideSterling B. Hendricks and George I. BellIIN the Canadian Rockies west of the Continental Divide, between Howse and Fortress Passes, there is a pure wilderness which, being difficult of access and rich in unclimbed peaks, offers a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Qala-i-Hurst (valley), Koh-e-Hoppa, Koh-e-Baffa, and Koh-e-Forot Zorman Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush

Roeland Bom, Bart Klein, Daniel Kuipers (leader), and I wanted to travel to an adventurous part of the world, without many climbers, within our limited budget, and with mountains below 6,000m. Our gaze had already turned towards the stan countries...

| Published 2010 | Author Marian Michielsen


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Chandra Bhaga Range, Khhang Shiling (6,360m), First Ascent

Khhang Shiling (6,360m), first ascent. A three-member team sponsored by The Himalayan Club made the first ascent of Khhang Shiling peak (6,360m–20,866') on 19th September assisted by Sherpa Lakhpa Bhote. (“Khhang Shiling” means “Snow Mountain of f...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Blackburn's East Ridge

Mount Blackburn’s East RidgeCraig GaskillON MAY 21, 1982, we stood on the summit of Mount Blackburn. The mountain rises to 16,390 feet (4996 meters) in the Wrangell-Saint Elias National Park and Preserve in southern Alaska. Michael and Glenn Ruckh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Mongolia, Munkhairkhan

Munkhairkhan. The British Mongolian Altai Expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszewski, Helen Sweet, Alan Hughes and me with Mongolian guides T. Byraa and Balto and cook Chegme. Our objective was the first ascent by Westerners of Munkhairkhan (420...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, No Equipment, Inadequate Clothing, Inexperience, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount Teewinot

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, NO EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn September 22, about 1300, Jon Winiasz (23) and Eliot Kalmbach (24) were attempting to climb Mount Teewinot v...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness and Frostbite (Two Incidents), Washington, Mount Rainier

ILLNESS AND FROSTBITE (TWO INCIDENTS)Washington, Mount RainierWhile on a summit climb on the morning of July 13 about 9:00 a.m., Dr. Walter Leonard (56) experienced extreme pain in his right abdomen and back. The climbers accompanying him called t...


Feature Article AAJ
One-Way Ticket, Surrealistic Purity on the New French Route up the North Face of Thalay Sagar

One-Way TicketSurrealistic purity on the new French route up the north face of Thalay Sagar.Patrice Glairon-RappazI emerge from the portaledge a zombie. A quick glance at my watch, not for the time, but for the barometric pressure: it’s a bit bett...


Book Reviews AAJ
Winter Sports Medicine

Winter Sports Medicine. Murray J. Casey, Carl Foster, and Edward G. Hixson. F.A. Davis, Philadelphia, 1989. 425 pages, illustrated. $65.00.This is an excellent and needed addition to the growing library of sports medicine and will be of great valu...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Mountains of America: From Alaska to the Great Smokies

The Mountains of America: From Alaska to the Great Smokies, by Franklin Russell. Introduction by Edward Abbey. New York: Harry Abrams, 1975 224 pages, 133 photos, 124 in color. Price: $40.00Not many years ago it was fashionable to talk about cheap...