Aguja Saint Exupéry, Patagonia. An Italian expedition of the Trieste Section of the Italian Alpine Club led by Gino Buscaini and composed of Lino Caudot, Silvia Metzeltin, Walter Romano and Silvano Sinigoi reached the FitzRoy group in early Februa...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. It was reported that Pat Littlejohn led a commercial trip to the Ak-Su region, operating a basecamp at the junction of the Ak-Su and Kara-Su valleys. In two weeks the expedition split into four small teams and climbe...
Nevado Juncal, South Peak, Central Chile. The Osaka Mountaineering Association expedition to central Chile was led by Eiichiro Hisano. Other members were Masando Izeki, Yasuo Asakawa, Kenko Matsumoto, Hikoshi Tomada, Masanori Nakado, Masahiro Suda...
“Ruby Peak,” South Arête. This is the unofficial name for the peak above Ruby Lake in the Little Lakes Valley region of the Eastern Sierra. The south arête drops 1200 feet from just left of the highest summit to a permanent snowfield, where the cl...
Cerro Catedral del Paine. On January 9, 1971 Chris Jackson, Guy Lee, Dave Nicol, Bob Shaw, Bob Smith and I of the British Patagonia Expedition made the first ascent of Cerro Catedral in the Paine group. We followed the west ridge and made the asce...
East. The Appalachian Mountain Club is in the process of organizing courses and talks on mountaineering problems. It is expected that rock climbing, and the special rescue problems involved, will receive particular attention.The Potomac Appalachia...
Karyolung, Winter Ascent. Another Japanese-Nepalese expedition climbed Karyolung, also by the northeast face, but this was done in the winter. Two Japanese, Akira Yamada and Katsuichi Tanaka, and two Nepalese members, Sherpas Ang Kami and Pemba Ts...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Eldorado State Park, Bastille RockOn July 27, Aaron Nydam (24) sustained a dislocated hip and cuts on his leg after falling about 25 feet while climbing with his brothers Scott and Trevor. His climbing ...
Nuptse, Southwest Ridge, Attempt. Hans Kammerlander (Italy) and his only other teammate, Maurizio Lutzenberger, attempted to be the first people ever to reach Nuptse’s slightly higher east summit (7804m). But they could manage to go no higher alon...
Mount Wilson, Southwest Face. Gray Thompson and I spent a late August evening and all the ensuing day climbing a winding route through limestone cliff bands on Wilson’s southwest face. Route finding was the major problem, as we had only one short ...
North of Eden, North Dome, Kings Canyon National Park. In July, Roy Swafford, Todd Vogeland and I climbed an 11-pitch route on the east buttress of North Dome. The route follows a distinct corner system consisting of wide cracks. The crux reminded...
Generator Crack Area. In April 1971, Jerry Coe and I explored a hitherto hidden small 200-foot cliff band directly above the generator building of Generator Crack infamy. This cliff, characterized by knobs, has thus far yielded four fine short rou...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION OR BELAY FAILURENew Hampshire, Cannon CliffIn early July, 1983, two climbers from Dartmouth College were on the early section of Wiessner’s (5.6) when the leader (21) fell and was not stopped, either because his protection...
Die Grossen Kalten Berge von Szetschuan, by Eduard Imhof. 1974, Zürich: Orell Füssli Verlag. 227 pages, numerous photos, sketches, reproductions of water-colors by the author (in color), topographical and sketch maps.This book is of particular int...
Mt. Balfour. 1940, E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard. Traverse from Twin Falls via Balfour Pass and N. ridge, with descent to Takakkaw camp by way of S. ridge and Daly Glacier. By trail from Twin Falls chalet to receding tongue of Yoho Glacier. Cross...
Colorado National Monument. K.C. Baum and Tom Archibeque established three new routes on the relatively solid Wingate Sandstone of Colorado National Monument: The Rainbow Bridge (I, 5.11d), 35 feet right of Higher Mind Dynamics on the Lower Monume...
Kluane National Park and Reserve, summary. The weather in this region is generally unforgiving and unpredictable during the climbing season. High winds, thick clouds, and heavy snowfalls are the bane of pilots and climbers alike. In 2007 a steady ...
SLIP ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 19,1985, the 13-member German guided party, led by a guide named Zeheleitner, began their ascent of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinle...
Latok III. The following were members of the Latok III expedition: Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori, Kiyukaza Kitamura, Keiso Sadatomo, Naoki Ohudaira and I as leader. We climbed the mountain from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier via the southwest ridge, wh...
Broad Peak, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Paul Briggs, Steve Strain, Bob McIntosh and me as leader, but McIntosh injured his knee near the tongue of the Baltoro Glacier and had to leave the expedition. We arrived in Skardu on J...