The Cirque of the Unclimbables, Logan Mountains. Jamie Farrar and I repeated Buckingham’s 1960 routes with minor variations on Terrace Tower, Crescent Spire, and Sir James MacBrien. After abandoning one attempt on the south face of Phenocryst Spir...
GeographicalDistrictsNumberofAccidents1951-1985DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidents1986DeathsTotalPersonInvolveCanadaAlberta2015744018941British Columbia187743841429Yukon Territory2022512110Ontario19538000Quebec13332000East Arctic6218000Wes...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...
As smooth and beautiful as the great rock faces which surround it, Yosemite’s Washington Column rises sheer from the valley floor to its tree-covered rim, 1500 feet above. After several attempts, in July of 1959 two superb climbers, Warren Hard...
First Ascents in the Southern PicketsEdward CooperIt seems strange that in 1961 there were still unclimbed peaks in the Cascades, but this proved to be the case. These peaks were probably the highest and most remote of the virgin summits left in t...
Annapurna Attempt. A 14-member Korean expedition led by Jang Bong- Wan attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna. On December 19, they reached 7300 meters before abandoning the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CARABINER CAME OFF SLING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWest Virginia, New River Gorge National Park, Beauty MountainOn August 19, approximately twelve or fifteen feet up on a route called “Brainteasers” (5.10 a), CU (21)...
Shawangunk Rock Climbing. Richard DuMais. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1985. 84 color and 31 black and white photographs. $27.50.Since the appearance of CLIMB!, climbing enthusiasts in the East have been waiting for their own version of this classic ...
LOSS ON CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Tetons, Lower SaddleOn July 27, Shawn Callahan (31) lost control during a voluntary glissade on the snow below the Lower Saddle, near the base of Middle Teton. An Exum Mountain Guide...
Rataban. A team from Calcutta led by Kala Chand Chatterjee approached the peak from the Valley of Flowers. On August 19, Raj at Mahalanobish, Ragban Singh Rawat and Jagat Singh Rana reached the summit (6166 meters, 20,230 feet).Harish Kapadia, Him...
To the Summit: Fifty Mountains that Lure, Inspire, Challenge. Joseph Poindexter. Black Dog & Leventhal Publishing: New York, 1998. 300 color photos. 320 pages. $39.98.The specter of mountain beauty and illusion dignifies this ambitious debut. ...
On Thursday morning, December 10th, at 0700 a group of 24 (12 teams) participants lined up in the Grotto Falls parking lot for the 4th annual Ice Breaker ice climbing competition. Each team climbs as many difficult routes as possible in a day. Aro...
ADOLPHUS WASHINGTON GREELY 1844-1935General Greely, Arctic explorer, an Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club, was born in Newburyport, Mass., March 27th, 1844, and died in Walter Reed Hospital, Washington, on October 20th, 1935.He enlisted ...
Deosai Plains ski crossing. Thomas Niederlein, Norbert Trommler, and I arrived in Pakistan in mid-March, with plans to circumnavigate Nanga Parbat on skis, crossing the Shontar Pass into Kashmir and the Barai Pass toward Chilas.Just before donning...
Mount Emmerich, Chilkat Mountains, Alaska Coast Mountains. One lovely alpine peak stands out in particular from the Chilkat River, only some eight miles from Haines and in plain view of the town. Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), a bastion of granite an...
Logan Mountains, 1965William J. BuckinghamIn 1960, from the summits near Glacier (Brintnell) Lake1, as we gazed out across the myriad clusters of spires and peaks, our eyes often lingered longingly on a particularly fine group of peaks far to the ...
Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Chic Scott. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2000. Countless photographs. 440 pages.This author knows his stuff, as well he ought, given his long experience with the Canadian mountain scene. ...
Three Peaks Mountain, southwest face, attempt. Six young Koreans led by Lee Jae-yong attempted a new route on Three Peaks Mountain/Mahindra. By September 10 they had established Camp 2 on the upper Dali Glacier below the peak, hoping to make a com...
Altitude Illness—Recent Advances in KnowledgeCharles S. Houston, M.D.LESS than thirty years ago the great Himalayan peaks in Nepal were opened for the first time to climbers, and the Karakoram ranges were re-opened. Since then all of the major pea...
GRAND MAL SEIZURES Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 16, 1994, John Merrigan (43) was climbing Mount McKinley when he began experiencing what appeared to be Grand Mal seizures at 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. He was evacuated at 0745 on May 17 by...