Stauning Alper. We traveled from Mestersvig along Kong Oscar Fjord and Alpejord by rubber boat past the common front of the Gully and Sefström Glaciers to enter the Dammen, where we placed Base Camp. High Camp was at 3450 feet up the Sefström Glac...
The Titan, Sun Devil Chimney, First Clean Ascent. On March 20-21, Andy Donson and I made the first clean ascent of the Sun Devil Chimney (5.9 A3) on the Titan. We used tricams, small Aliens and hand-placed pins in existing scars and gave the route...
Shishapatigma main summit (8,027m), southwest face, solo in December with new variation. Over the years I had a simple idea in mind: to climb a big Himalayan route solo in the inhospitable conditions that typify winter in the Himalaya. During all ...
Mount Everest Massif. Jan Kielkowski. Explo Publishers, 1 Maja 40/6, 44-100 Gliwice, Poland. 1992. Climbing Guide, 201 pages, 9 maps, 97 illustrations, $18.50. Mountaineering Atlas, 21 pages, maps and indexes, $6.50 plus $2.50 postage for each.If ...
Gunsight (main summit), East Face. Gary Brill and I made this ascent on July 31. From a camp on the Blizzard-Gunsight Col we were able to circumnavigate easily to the east by way of the Blue Glacier. Choosing a line on the east face (left), we soo...
Climbs in Pinnacles National Monument. At least three routes were added to the monument this year. Cleaver Buttress (F6) lies on a formation above and behind the Machete Ridge. It ascends a water chute to the base of a chimney. The second pitch as...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, James Waugh (27) and John Darsis (30) were on El Capitan climbing The Nose and were two pitches short of the Dolt Tower. Waugh fell, injuring his finger. They...
Pier Giorgio, Patagonia. A group from Buenos Aires, consisting of Eduardo and Jenny Monelos, Peter and Jure Skvarca, Mario Castelazzo, Carlos Porta and Serif Pasic, finally managed to climb often attempted Pier Giorgio (8515 feet). They approached...
Daff Dome, South Face, the Crescent Arch. This new climb was done June 2 by Layton Kor and me. The route follows a great right-curving arch in mid-face, very prominent from the nearby Tioga Road. The first two leads were primarily difficult fifth ...
SLIP ON ICE, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn March 29, 1981, a large group from a University Outdoor Pursuits Program were climbing Professor Falls, a waterfall on the lower slopes of Mount Rundle near Banff. The rou...
Volcán Llullaillaco, New Route. Llullaillaco, a volcano on the Argentine-Chilean border, was a sacred peak for the Incas who built on its summit the world’s highest buildings. In March, a caving expedition went to Volcán Llullaillaco; Gustavo Lisi...
The Alps, by Wilfrid Noyce, with descriptive essays by Karl Lukan, translated from the German edition of 1959 by Margaret Shenfield. New York: G. P. Putnam’s Sons, 1963. 4 to, 312 pages, 222 photographs and 6 maps. Price $15.00.Although heavy and ...
Mount Hess. The Tokyo University Alaska Expedition consisted of Junji Nakamura, leader, Yoshiharu Mikami, Seiji Okai, Naoyuki Morita, Tadao Inagaki, Osamu Mutsuda, Takashi Hongi and Katsuhiko Denda. On June 18 all members entered the West Fork Gla...
Wyoming Section. The Section was active in 2010 as it continued to spread the word about the value of the AAC as an important climber's resource and to attract new members. We have found that climbers in Wyoming are young and have no money to pay ...
Mount Steele. Frank Ewing, Rod Newcomb and I spent nearly three weeks in June in the Mount Steele region of the St. Elias Range. We were flown in to about 9000 feet on the Steele Glacier from Burwash Landing by Jack Wilson of Glen Allen, Alaska. I...
Batian, Mount Kenya, Diamond Face. Miguel Angel Gallego and Miguel Gómez made a new route with three bivouacs on the Diamond Face of Batian in February.Jordi Pons, Club Montañés Barcelonés, Spain
Shaqsha, South-Southeast Face. On May 23, Xavier Carrard, Abel Calana, Juan Morales, Marcos Niño, Franco Obando, Hector Reyes, César Vargas and Aritza made a possible first ascent with their route Feliz Cumpleaños Momo (85° IV+, 700m) on the south...
Eiger, North Face. On September 20 Steve Shea and I completed the 1938 route on the north face of the Eiger. We found perfect ice climbing conditions, wearing crampons from the Hinterstoisser traverse to the top. We had two bivouacs, one at the Sw...
South Atrak Zom, Istor-o-Nal Group. The expedition of the Sapporo Medical University was led by Masaji Matsuura and composed of Toshio Murata, Akira Nishio and Tetsuhiko Nakamura. From Base Camp at 14,100 feet at the tongue of the South Atrak Glac...
The north-south ridge between Ambush and Raid contains a lot of rock. A long, attractive east-facing slab two buttresses north of M Buttress, two buttresses south of Raid, lured us in. On August 28 Felix Hörmann and I started at the lowest t...