Mongun Taiga, Tuva, Southern Siberia, 1993. Our expedition’s main objective was to unify the separate disciplines of mountain-biking and mountaineering in the hinterlands of central Asia, namely in the remote comers of the Republic of Tuva in sout...

Now It Can be ToldDuring the course of the war many members of the American Alpine Club may have felt grieved that the Club was not taking a greater part in the war effort. If so, they were deceived, for the President, the Council, the Mountain Wa...

Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress, Voodoo Proj. Over five days in mid-July Blair Williams, with William Tharpe, Todd Karner, and me, added a steep new route to the North Norwegian Buttress. Voodoo Proj starts 100 yards to the right of the Door...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, LeavenworthJean Heineman (23) and I had been climbing together for some weeks in Yosemite Valley and were in Leavenworth finishing our trip of climbing. I had been climbing rock for most...

FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Pinnacles National MonumentOn May 8, 1982, Chad Carvey (18) and his unde, Crile Carvey (33), were attempting a route up a black waterchute on the Balconies when this accident occurred. They later learned that ...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, East FaceOn August 3 at 0700, Jeff Snyder (24) was leading over the icy Mills Glacier to the base of Stetner’s Ledges III (AI 1 5.8) on the...

Lila Peak, West Face/North Ridge, First Official Ascent*. Lila Peak (6200 m) in the Gondokoro area of the Pakistan Karakoram was officially unclimbed; however, signs of a British group were found on the summit (gas cartridge) and west face-south s...

Terror RockMountain Warfare on the Austro-Italian Front, 1915–16Adams CarterTHE Punta dei Bos in the Dolomites is not a great peak rising proudly above its neighbors. It is only a buttress which juts out from the mightier Tofana I. Its 8715 ft. su...

Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth. Unlike the crowded nearby Bugaboos, the Adamant and Gothic Peaks, with high-quality objectives up to 600m, see but a handful of visits a year. On August 6 Steve Swenson and I established Ostrogot...

Manaslu North. Our Joint British Services expedition had 12 members under my leadership. We had 170 porters for the 15-day march to the traditional Manaslu east-face Base Camp. We established Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Snow Cave and Camp III at 1...

After five years of recons, prep work, and keeping my mouth shut, I completed my long-term nemesis. The Prow Wall is one of the last major formations to see development on the Chief, probably due to its relatively difficult access and lack of ob...

Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. Ross Cowie and Tim Marsh (UK) with Ronan Browner and Donie O’Sullivan (Ireland) traveled via Nanortalik to Pamiagdluk Island where they set up camp at the now established Baroness Base Camp o...

Expedition Philosophy—1956CHARLES S. HOUSTONInterest in foreign mountain expeditions has grown enormously in the last decade, inspired perhaps by the heroic accomplishments on the world’s highest peaks. Just as the period from 1854 to 1864 saw the...

Aging and AltitudeCharles S. Houston, M.D.IF YOU’RE INTO MOUNTAINS AND MOUNTAIN SPORTS, some day you will wonder how much longer you can ski, climb and trek on the mountains you love. Some exceptional men and women do strenuous sports well into th...

Huarancayo South, first ascent. Tony Barton returned [AAJ 2006, pp. 249-250] to the rarely visited and still partially unexplored subrange of Cordillera Huagaruncho, but unusually poor weather thwarted ambitions. With Andy Houseman he made the fir...

THAT great axial uplift of the American Rocky Mountains, with the appropriate turbulent name Wind River Range, has long been a challenge to the fur traders, the mountain men, the Oregon and California emigrants, the surveying parties, and more r...

Columbia Icefield—A Solitude of Ice. Don Harmon (Photographer), Bart Robinson (Writer). The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 103 pages, black and white and color photographs, maps, glossary, bibliography. $29.95.Even with the flood of heroic tales and...

Devil’s Thumb and Kate’s Needle. Eric Trouillot and I spent three weeks in May skiing and climbing in the Stikine Icecap area on the Alaskan-British Columbian border. Our major climbing objective was the Devil’s Thumb (2767 meters, 9078 feet), who...

OFF ROUTE, FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, North Cascades National Park, Sharkfin TowerOn July 10, a six-person team set out to climb Sharkfin Tower in North Cascades National Park. After a glacie...

Kangchenjunga from the East, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was jointly sponsored by the Himalayan Association of Japan and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police under the auspices of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Hukam Singh was the overall ...