Artesonraju. A light Italian expedition led by Ferdinando Nusdeo climbed Artesonraju (19,766 feet) from the Quebrada Santa Cruz.Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano
California—Mt. Clarence King: Philip Berry (20) and David Brower (30) roped attempted to ascend the east spur of Mt. Clarence King on August 2, 1952 during the Sierra Club high trip. They had completed the first pitch (class 4) with Berry leading....
Cordillera de Potosí. This range, nine miles east of historic Potosí, has some 50 rock peaks between 4800 meters and the highest, 5056-meter (16,590-foot) Cururana. With no glaciers, it is seldom visited by climbers. It receives heavy snow between...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, NotchtopOn July 6 at 1600, Ulrich Moderl (22) of Austria took a 15 meter fall from the 5.9 crux pitch of the South Ridge on Notchtop. Moderl sustained a fractured right ank...
Sierra Club of California. Undoubtedly the year 1957 produced one of the most impressive rock climbs ever to be completed in Yosemite Valley, and one which certainly ranks with any climb completed or attempted in the world. Three southern Californ...
Table IYearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths194715111948281519491791950308195118419523514195325121954308
The Sentinel, Direct North Face, Free Ascent. In early October I began a two-week effort to free the Sentinel. Grant Farquar (UK), Steve Jeunavene, and one other person came to belay on the first six pitches. Kevin Thaw led pitch seven and 10. I l...
After an hour of getting nowhere, Peter called the NPS for help. The ranger taking the call asked if Peter could rappel or Prusik down and free the rope. Peter replied that he didn’t want to rappel and didn’t know how to Prusik. Ranger Scott obv...
Meru Attempt and Bhagirathi II Ascent. After a British group failed to climb the east ridge of Meru, Andrew MacNae and Gavin Thomas made a rapid ascent of Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Sudarshan Parbat Attempt and Thel...
Mount Washington, North Face. The extension of the Jefferson Lake road now makes this approach usable. In May Arnold Bloomer, Roy Harniss, Neil Jacques, Keith Spencer, Don Anderson, Richard Hebble and Jerry Koch made the first ascent of this face ...
Pokharkan, first ascent. Sherpa Panima Lama (51) and I (61) made the first ascent of Pokharkan (6,346m) on October 31. We climbed the north ridge via a route that is not highly technical. I selected this route because the south face is a difficult...
Snow Lake Peaks and Hispar Sar. New Zealanders Dave Bamford, Matt Comeskey, John Cocks, John Wild and I with liaison officer Major Arif Khan spent July and August climbing in the Lukpe Lawo (Snow Lake) region during a Biafo-Hispar traverse. We pla...
Owl Rock. Across the highway from Agathalan rises the red obelisk called Owl Rock. Harvey Carter and I studied a route that had already been attempted but the rock seemed sounder on the opposite, west side. We took the better part of two days, cli...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. A six-man Korean expedition led by Choi Byung- Soo attempted to climb the north face of Thalay Sagar in June. They were stopped at 6400 meters by bad weather.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
Piramide, Facig Uno. Dujan Debelak (Slovenia) and Aritza Monasteno (Spain) climbed what they believed to be a new route on the southwest face of Piramide (5885 meters) in 11 hours on July 13. They followed the gully on the left side of the wall, t...
FALL ON ICY ROCK, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonOn July 14, 1992, at 0430, three Exum guides left the lower saddle with seven clients to climb the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton. The route was in bad condition because of rec...
Ama Dablam, state of the Dablam. The huge high serac known as “the Dablam” has remained active since November 2006, when a huge mass of ice falling from this large serac barrier hit Camp 3 and swept six climbers off the mountain. During the night ...
Chiquito Dome, “Cheeseburger in Paradise”. On May 11, Conrad Van Bruggen and I climbed this route on the east face of this small dome located near the Mammoth Pool Reservoir. Start in the last right-facing book before the dome turns to brushy slab...
The Ship’s Prow, Bologna Pony. It was reported that Jim Redo and Pat Adams put up a new 500-foot line on The Ship’s Prow that follows the obvious overhanging arête on the formation. The Bologna Pony (5.12b/c) features thin crack climbing on the fi...
Mount Vernon Bailey, Southeast Face, Big Bend National Park. In March, Fred Pfahler and I began our ascent at the main couloir on the east part of the face. Three rope-lengths of moderate difficulty brought us to the upper of two diagonal ledges w...