Tribhuj. This small but fine peak, southwest of Trisul, was climbed by Britons Andrew Brett and Alexander Laird. They followed the southwest ridge to the summit (5055 meters, 16,584 feet) on May 17.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Ama Dablam in the Post-Monsoon. Ten teams went to Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet), nine of them to the standard southwest-ridge route, and there were the usual problems of coordinating climbers’ movements on the narrow ridge with little spac...
Grandes Jorcisses ; North Face. The tremendous Mer-de-Glace face of this mountain was finally conquered this past summer, after a siege lasting many years.“On the 28th and 29th of June two German climbers, Rudolf Peters and Martin Meier, accomplis...
Longs Peak, Diamond and, Twin Owls. Chris Reevesly and Bill Rouse took advantage of a good day in early July to make the second ascent, but the first all free one, of the Obelisk, a long vertical white crack at the left edge of the Yellow Wall on ...
M6, North Face. We placed our Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Mondaras valley off the Darya Qadzi Deh. Our High Camp was established on a rock rognon at 16,800 feet. Howard Lancashire and I climbed M6 (20,134 feet) by its impressive north face. In...
Mount Bona, 1977. The first of the two Japanese expeditions to climb Bona in 1977 was led by Noburo Fujimoto. (See also A.A.J., 1978, p. 519.) Nine men and a woman were landed on the Klutlan Glacier on April 19. All members reached the summit on M...
“Gnomen Spire,” Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. In mid May Kjell Swedin and I flew to the Cool Sack Glacier, hoping to make the first ascent of P 8500, the satellite peak just west of Kichatna Spire. On our first attempt we climbed a 1700-fo...
EXPOSURE, FROSTBITE, BAD WEATHER, INEXPERIENCE, PANIC—California, Piute Pass. Steve Sheppard (22) and Jeri Ann Grassmeuch (22) were trying to complete a trip from North Lake to South Lake on January 3 when bad weather caused them to turn back. The...
Paine Group, North Tower. A group from the Club Andino Córdoba led by Federico Laje attempted the North Tower, but was prevented by bad weather from getting above the Col Bich.
The Crown (Huang Guan Feng). A Japanese Alpine Club expedition of 14 members led by me climbed the Crown (7295 meters, 23,934 feet), 40 kilometers northwest of K2, after five previous unsuccessful expeditions, two of which had ended in tragedy. We...
Oak Creek Canyon, Arizona Boneless Chicken Ranch. In early November, Dan Stih and I established a new wall route in Oak Creek Canyon, high in Counterfeiter Canyon, just north of Sedona. The route, Arizona Boneless Chicken Ranch (IV 5.11 A3+) climb...
Janak, first ascent. After their ascent of the 7,090m northeast summit of Pyramid Peak, north of Kangchenjunga, Slovenians Andrej Stremfelj and Rok Zalokar made the coveted first ascent of Janak (7,041m) via the southwest pillar. The 1,150m route,...
Zeus Tower, Moab. Last September, after an aerial reconnaissance and a spectacular dune-buggy ride, Fred Beckey and I arrived at our newly discovered desert spire. The climb of the thin 200-foot needle took two days, a few pitons between free move...
Oregon Section. The AAC was represented at the annual Smith Rock Detour, a two-day event at the end of September on private property adjacent to Smith Rock State Park. Action at the AAC booth included the screening of the AAC trailer video, answer...
Ninashanca, Northeast Ridge and Southeast Buttress. In June Arnold Larcher, Dieter Blümel, Adolf Praxmair and I climbed the northeast ridge of Ninashanca, more or less without problems. In August in a single day Egon Wurm and Hannes Condin made al...
Weasel Valley, Various Ascents. Louis-Philippe Blanchette and I spent six weeks in the Arctic from June 1 to July 11. We did more than 260 kilometers of load carrying in the Valley to move our camp. We took advantage of the dry weather of spring a...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. A.A.C. membership in the Rocky Mountain region increased in 1964 with the addition of several able young climbers sporting splendid records of ascents. Accounts of the most significant climbs in the area are detaile...
Nanda Devi Attempt. A 17-man Indo-Japanese expedition attempted Nanda Devi in the post-monsoon season. The leader was Tokichiro Morita. Details are lacking but it is believed that they had hoped to repeat the American route of 1976 but had to quit...
Jirishanca Norte, North Buttress, Second Ascent. Our team was made up of Dietmar Küng, Bernard Hangl, Arnold Larcher, Hannes Connes, Walter Hauser and me. On July 8 Küng, Hangl, Larcher and I completed the second ascent of the north buttress of Ji...
Yerupajá, West Face. The best climb our group did was the west face of Yerupajá. Climbing alpine-style with a haul bag, a quart of water and a rack of ice screws, Tom Pulaski and Geoff Conley from July 9 to 11 managed to do the 28 pitches of blue ...