Kayak-Mountaineering: Mount AbbeWalter R. Gove and William PillingGove begins:AS A MOUNTAINEER, I have come to aspire to the goals I associate with an earlier era. Besides a hard and good line to an unclimbed summit, I want unexplored and difficul...
Mountain Rescue Doctor: Wilderness Medicine in the Extremes of Nature. Christopher Van Tilburg. New York: St. Martin’s Press,2007. 304 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.Few titles dramatize with greater flair the nervy, adrenalin-driven world of mountain r...
Coast Range, South of Bella Coola. This year’s journey into the Coast Range took Floyd Burnette, Allen Steck, Jim Wilson and Dick Houston for three weeks into unexplored territory south of Mount Snowside. After driving to Bella Coola from Californ...
In September 2009, Chris McNamara and I climbed First Amendment (IV 5.11a), a new route just right of center on Le Petit Cheval’s northwest face. The rock is excellent, but, as is normal for the area, many cracks were filled with dirt. We approach...
On Foot to Distant Canadian SummitsSterling B. HendricksHOW fortunate is man to forget the ardors of back-packing that he once endured and how foolish is he consciously to plan for more. The only excuse to the knees that ache and the back that hur...
FALL ON ROCK, BEGINNER UNCLIPPED CLIMBING ROPEOregon, Rooster RockIn late June 1982, a man (37) fell 30 meters to his death from Rooster Rock. He had unclipped from the climbing rope and when he fell, he was unprotected. He was part of a climbing ...
The First Ascent of the Diamond, East Face of Longs PeakDavid Rearick, Sierra ClubLongs Peak, in Rocky Mountain National Park, is one of the best-known and most-climbed mountains in the United States. At 14,255 feet it is Colorado’s northernmost "...
Bugaboos, various ascents. On East post Spire in August, Aleksey Shuruyev, Elizabeth Whitcher (age 17), Sam Adelman (age 17), and Andrew Freeman put up two new routes that, combined, would make a logical seven-pitch outing up the center of the sou...
Cerro Fitz Roy, West Face, Ensueño. Silvo Karo (Slovenia) and I arrived in Chaltén in the very last days of January with the obvious intention of doing some climbing, but also hoping for a lot of bad weather so we could enjoy the peaceful and calm...
Bugaboo AdventuresFred BeckeyEast Face of Snowpatch SpireThe days of route pioneering are still young in North America, especially in Canada where there are many great faces, as well as peaks, still to be conquered. Destiny is almost certain to fa...
The Alpine Museum of MunichHarriet GeithmannIN the heart of Munich stands the Alpine Museum on an island in the Isar River which travels across Bavaria for one hundred and seventy-five miles before it joins the blue Danube. A better location could...
ARTHUR K. GILKEY1926-1953Art Gilkey, elected to the Club in 1950, and a member of the Third American Karakoram Expedition, died August 10, 1953. In critical condition from thrombophlebitis suffered at an altitude of 25,500 feet on K2, he was lost ...
This is the twenty-third report of the Safety Committee and the tenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and statistical tables have been corrected to include them.The total...
FALL ON SNOW, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn January 28, a man (44) and his son were attempting to climb the Avalanche Gulch route on Mount Shasta. They were unsuccessful and began descending. Around 1300, the father fell o...
Further Studies of the Dinwoody Glaciers, Wind River Mountains, WyomingMark F. MeierGlaciological studies around Gannett Peak in 19501 suggested that high névé fields were thickening and that the rate of glacier recession was diminishing. The auth...
Cordillera Blanca, other information. New route activity was below normal in 2004, presumably because of atypical unsettled weather and conditions. The following information supplements the new routes individually reported above.On the south face ...
Trango Tower Attempts. We were Ray Button, Geoff Gabites, Ian Jowett and I as leader. Our objective was the Nameless Trango Tower by the British route. We had two camps: Boulder Camp at 16,500 feet, established the day after reaching Base Camp in ...
Canada: Canada submitted narratives for 2009, but no data for Tables.United States: Errata: First, Last year's cover page incorrectly indicated the Volume as being #10. It should read #9. We bind four to six Numbers, depending upon total number of...
Fitz Roy, Los Ultimos Dias del Paraiso. Grega Lacen and I stared on the north face, on the left side of the obvious snow ledge below and right of Tehuelche. The first seven pitches were quite hard, with sandy rock and loose flakes. We free-climbed...
Homathko Snowfield, Coast Range. On July 27, 1957, Richard H. Beatty and I arrived in Princeton, B. C., where we met our friends Alistair Morrison and John Rucklidge, of Cambridge University, England, and with some difficulty continued by car to t...