Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988. Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari and I approached the Dawson group from Rogers Pass on August 2, 1988, crossing the Illecillewaet Icefield to the Glacier Circle Hut. After a day of rain, we climbed over the ...

The highlight of the Antarctic season was undoubtedly the string of big climbs done by the French team of Mathieu Cortial, Lionel Daudet, and Patrick Wagnon, traveling aboard Isabelle Autissier’s Ada II. This was Daudet's third voyage to the...

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, EXHAUSTION,INEXPERIENCEWashington, LeavenworthOn April 19, 1987, Larry Laske (24) reported that he had successfully led two pitches of 5.8 on Airy Canary on Castle Rock and wanted more of a challenge. He started ...

Bhagirathi II. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Mineo Kawai climbed Bhagirathi II (6512 meters, 21,365 feet) by its east face. Base Camp was set up on July 23. After reconnoitering the north face, they turned to the east face. Camps I and II ...

Alaska: Kenai Peninsula. While hiking on the Spencer Galcier in the Kenai Peninsula, Gerald Rose, 21, fell into a crevasse and was killed. His companion, Robert Rose, 23, went for help. Rescue operations were hampered by bad weather, including 60-...

While the highest peak in the Ramada is Mercedario, the most attractive is Polaco, immediately south. In January Javier Giuliani, Juan Manuel Leániz, and Fabrizio Oieni (Argentina) were active in this area. From the standard base camp at Pirca ...

FALLING OBJECT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 22, 1989, about 1100, Trenton Cladouhos (23) was on the sixth pitch of the standard route, Northwest Face, Half Dome, climbing and trailing a haul line. His hau...

Trango Towers. Five expeditions climbed on the Trango Towers this season. Three parties attempted a new route on the east face of the Nameless Tower: Pole Wojciech Kurtyka with three Japanese, the American group described in this journal and Frenc...

Deborah: A Wilderness Narrative, by David Roberts. New York: The Vanguard Press, 1970. 188 pages, 15 photographs, $6.95Who has not had at least one mountain experience ruined by some kind of intrapersonal conflict? Planning may be flawless, weathe...

False Cape Renard, Zerua Peak, Azken Paradizua. From Cape Horn on December 10, my brother Iker, filmmakers Jabi Baraiazarra and Gotxon Arribas, and I sailed the legendary, harrowing, Drake Passage to Antarctica in the Northanger. Four long days fr...

Meru Central, spring attempt and successful autumn first ascent. On his second visit to the Gangotri in 2001, Valeri Babanov from Russia made the much sought after first ascent of 6310m Meru Central, commonly referred to as The Shark’s Fin. Before...

Bhagirathi II. A team from near Calcutta was led by Miss Bani Bose. The peak was climbed on June 6 by Miss Bose, Debashish Mitra, Kamal Mukherjee and two high-altitude porters.Kamal K. Guha. Editor, Himavanta, India

Carstenz Range. On October 15 the American-Indonesian Puncak Jaya Expedition landed in the Illaga valley in Irian Jaya, the Indonesian half of New Guinea. Our party was composed of Dan Emmett, Phil Trimble and me from the United States and Frank M...

Kangchenjunga: The Untrodden Peak, by Charles Evans, London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1956. 187 pages; 5 pages of color and 32 pages of black and white illustrations; 5 large diagrams; 2 maps. Price 25 s. Kangchenjunga is a great mountain book. Unpre...

AccidentsGeographical Districts1947-19561957Atlantic States—North223South22Central20Colorado457Utah and New Mexico53Wyoming296Montana and Idaho80Arizona and Nevada50California414Oregon221Washington3919Alaska40Practice Cliffs—all areas144TerrainRoc...

FALL/SLIP ON ICE, FAILURE TO PLACE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. Ken Stroud (25) and Steven Carey (22), both respected and experienced climbers, died on Mt. St. Helens after an apparent fall into a crevasse.Analysis: Our obse...

RAPPEL ANCHOR ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn December 2, Greg Levine (28) and a female companion decided to retreat from the first pitch of Hand Over Hand (I, 5.7) on Bat...

FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATOntario, Kelso Conservation AreaOn July 8, 1979, John Pierce (21), Donald Campbell (21), and Donald Collier (21) were climbing on the 70-foot rock face at Kelso Conservation Area, near Toronto. This ...

Cerro Cota 2000, The Keyhole Route (a.k.a. Eli’s Wet Dream). On December 20, 1996, Eli Helmuth, Gardner Heaton and I arrived in the Valle Francaise of Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine in southern Chile. Cerro Cota 2000 is visible through the beech...

Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents. It was reported that Iñaki Ochoa (29) of Spain completed ascents of both Gasherbrum I (8065 m) and Gasherbrum II (8035 m) in July. He began on July 10 with an ascent of GI, then moved on to GII, which he climbed in a ...