Cordillera Vilcanota—1969John RickerNaming of Andean Peaks. As previously suggested many times in this journal, local names for peaks should be sought out and used. Barring this, descriptive names in Quechua or at least Spanish are acceptable. Nam...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Nez Perce—On August 4, Tim Bond (24) and Sally Bond (23), in conjunction with Fritz Ermarth (19), Mike Ermarth (16), and Julie Peterson (30), were climbing the East Ridge of Nez Perce. Two other parties were als...
Watchtower, Northeast Face, Cirque of Towers. On June 27, Matt Hale and I made the first ascent of this fine, though by no means extreme, face. Ours seemed to be the easiest line, though others were obviously possible. From Cirque Lake climb the c...
Manaslu from the WestAKIRA TAKAHASHITranslated bv ICHIRO YOSHIZA WAMANASLU (26,760 feet), the first Japanese 8000er, was climbed from the east by the Japanese Alpine Club under the leadership of Yuko Maki in 1956 after previous attempts in 1953 an...
Changping Valley, Dorsal Peak, first ascent; Jiang Jun Feng, southwest ridge. On April 3 two friends and I found ourselves on top a previously unclimbed peak for the first time in our lives. This was not the culmination of a lengthy expedition to ...
What do you need for a good trip? A partner, a mountain, and a bit of luck? The first was easy. My climbing partnership with Nick Bullock had been forged over the last few years, strengthened through friendship, mutual respect, and trust in each o...
TABLE IIAccident and Mortality Rates for Mountaineers in National Parks, and National Monuments †1958-62Rates per 1000 registered climbers in parenthesesNumber of registered climbers36,375Number of persons involved in accidents 202 (5.6)Numberinju...
Peaks Above “Swan Lake”. Ten miles southeast of Maligne Lake the headwaters of the Brazeau River’s north fork coalesce into a two-mile-long lake. In early August Arnold Wexler, Morgan Broman, Frank Mettrick, Gene Boss, Lowell Putnam, Brad Swan and...
FALLING ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFFQuebec, Gatineau Park, Home CliffOn April 15, several climbers were top-roping on “Home Cliff” at the Luskville Escarpment. C.M. (33) had reached the top of his climb and was making his way above the other climbers ov...
The First Mountain Ascent in North AmericaORRIN H. BONNEYTHREE and a half centuries before Whymper made the first climb of the Matterhorn and four of his companions slipped to their death; and more than 250 years before Dr. Paccard ascended Mont B...
Jannu, French Route. The expedition consisted of four members: Rab Carrington, Brian Hall, Roger Baxter Jones and Alan Rouse. After a long walk in the monsoon rain we established Base Camp on the Yalung glacier, close to the site of the 1955 Kanch...
Mount Sir AlexanderNewman D. WafflMT. SIR ALEXANDER has been the subject of considerable notice, partly because of its isolated location and partly because of the difficulties which seemed to surround its ascent. Situated almost at the northern en...
Peruvian ascents. Peruvians continue to climb more actively each year. In the Cordillera Central, J. Escobar, A. Soriano, M. Arroyo, F. Schlister and S. Hidalgo made the first ascent of Mishipañahui (17,881 feet) on June 2; this peak lies northeas...
Kang Guru Attempt. A 10-man Japanese expedition was led by Shozo Kikuchi. They established Base Camp, Camp I and Camp III at 14,775, 18,050 and 21,500 feet on March 20, 28 and April 15 respectively. They attempted the northwest ridge of Kang Guru ...
K6. At the beginning of June our young expedition (average age 24) from the Academic Section, Vienna, of the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) arrived in Pakistan. We were Dietmar Entlesberger, Gerhard Haberl, Christian von der Hecken, Helmut Krech, Eric...
Mt. Foresta, East Ridge to north peak and altitude note. On May 3, Erik Monasterio and I landed at 4,040' on the Hubbard Glacier, courtesy of Paul Swanstrom from Haines. Conditions were unusual, with crevasse lines extending into the glacier and a...
Absaroka RangeAn ascent of Pilot Peak (11,740 ft.) located in N. W. Park County, Wyo., was made September 15th by George Haas, John Makowski, and the writer from a camp directly W. of Index Peak and 5 miles S. E. of Cooke City, Mont. The approach ...
Trango: The Nameless Tower, by Jim Curran. Sheffield, England: Dark Peak, 1978. 175 pages, 42 pages of black-and-white photos; 16 color plates. £6.95.Here is a climb that deserved a better book.The climb was the first ascent in 1976 of the “Namele...
Kiukiurtliu, Lukashbili Route. Climbers from Dagistan chose Kiukiurtliu, a mountain located on the southeastern spur of Mt. Elbrus (4.5 kilometers from the west summit), for their entry in the high altitude class of the Russian Climbing Championsh...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. The Scientific Expedition of the University of Shizuoka was led by Ryuichi Tsuchi and composed of Ryozo Yamamoto, Mayumi Takahashi, Takeshi Sugimoto, Tom Wada, Kinya Ota, Hiroshi Ando, and Dr. Asaji Kokue. They collec...