Terror RockMountain Warfare on the Austro-Italian Front, 1915–16Adams CarterTHE Punta dei Bos in the Dolomites is not a great peak rising proudly above its neighbors. It is only a buttress which juts out from the mightier Tofana I. Its 8715 ft. su...
Selkirk Range, East Peak of the Gothics, Ostrogoth. Unlike the crowded nearby Bugaboos, the Adamant and Gothic Peaks, with high-quality objectives up to 600m, see but a handful of visits a year. On August 6 Steve Swenson and I established Ostrogot...
Manaslu North. Our Joint British Services expedition had 12 members under my leadership. We had 170 porters for the 15-day march to the traditional Manaslu east-face Base Camp. We established Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Snow Cave and Camp III at 1...
After five years of recons, prep work, and keeping my mouth shut, I completed my long-term nemesis. The Prow Wall is one of the last major formations to see development on the Chief, probably due to its relatively difficult access and lack of ob...
Pamiagdluk Island, new routes on the Baron and Baronet. Ross Cowie and Tim Marsh (UK) with Ronan Browner and Donie O’Sullivan (Ireland) traveled via Nanortalik to Pamiagdluk Island where they set up camp at the now established Baroness Base Camp o...
Expedition Philosophy—1956CHARLES S. HOUSTONInterest in foreign mountain expeditions has grown enormously in the last decade, inspired perhaps by the heroic accomplishments on the world’s highest peaks. Just as the period from 1854 to 1864 saw the...
Aging and AltitudeCharles S. Houston, M.D.IF YOU’RE INTO MOUNTAINS AND MOUNTAIN SPORTS, some day you will wonder how much longer you can ski, climb and trek on the mountains you love. Some exceptional men and women do strenuous sports well into th...
Huarancayo South, first ascent. Tony Barton returned [AAJ 2006, pp. 249-250] to the rarely visited and still partially unexplored subrange of Cordillera Huagaruncho, but unusually poor weather thwarted ambitions. With Andy Houseman he made the fir...
THAT great axial uplift of the American Rocky Mountains, with the appropriate turbulent name Wind River Range, has long been a challenge to the fur traders, the mountain men, the Oregon and California emigrants, the surveying parties, and more r...
Columbia Icefield—A Solitude of Ice. Don Harmon (Photographer), Bart Robinson (Writer). The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1981. 103 pages, black and white and color photographs, maps, glossary, bibliography. $29.95.Even with the flood of heroic tales and...
Devil’s Thumb and Kate’s Needle. Eric Trouillot and I spent three weeks in May skiing and climbing in the Stikine Icecap area on the Alaskan-British Columbian border. Our major climbing objective was the Devil’s Thumb (2767 meters, 9078 feet), who...
OFF ROUTE, FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, North Cascades National Park, Sharkfin TowerOn July 10, a six-person team set out to climb Sharkfin Tower in North Cascades National Park. After a glacie...
Kangchenjunga from the East, Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was jointly sponsored by the Himalayan Association of Japan and the Indo-Tibetan Border Police under the auspices of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Hukam Singh was the overall ...
Honboro Peak and Chogolisa, Attempts, and Daare Peak, Ascent. We arrived in Hushe on June 19 and established Base Camp two days later at 4225 meters aside the Honboro Glacier at the base of Honboro Peak. After surveying the mountain, we decided th...
Aspiring, by W. Scott Gilkison. 80 pages of text, including sketch maps and numerous illustrations. Christchurch, N. Z.: Whitcomb and Tombs, Ltd.Well written and attractively illustrated, this short book is about one of New Zealand’s finest mounta...
Jaca Peak (3,372m), southeast face; Vinson West, Galfrío Route; Mt. Vinson (4,897m), Friendship Banana Gully to Branscomb ridge. On December 23 Chus (María Jesús) Lago and I attempted a new route on Vinson West face, but our backpacks were too hea...
Rensselaer Mountaineering Club. Spring activities of the Rensselaer Mountaineering Club consisted largely of rock-climbing trips to the Sha- wangunk cliffs with the accent on the development of leaders. The club’s annual ice climb of the dyke on M...
Kokshaal-Tau, Various Ascents. From July 18-August 26, the united team of Moscow district climbed in the West Kokshaal-Tau. The chief of the expedition was Boris Starostin; the trainers were Fedor Akhmatov, Valerii Boiko, Victor Efimov and Eugeny ...
FALL ON ROCK – OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HELMETCalifornia, Mono County, Inyo National Forest, Third Pillar of DanaOn August 30 Jeff Maurer (47) and Jo-Lynne DeNapoli (36) were planning on climbing the Regular Route of the Third Pillar o...
Pungpa Ri Second Ascent and Shisha Pangma Attempt. Our expedition was a joint civilian and military operation with a 17-member climbing team led by Lieutenant Colonel Henry Day and a 12-member scientific team led by Colonel John Blashford-Snell. T...