Dungeon Peak, East Face. Of the three principal Ramparts of Tonquin Valley, Oubliette, Dungeon and Redoubt, the face of the central one was the last to yield to the climber. Dennis Eberl and I made the route on August 30, beginning the day with a ...
North to the Bone, North Dome, Kings Canyon National Park. In August, Dick Leversee, Mike Meng and I climbed this 11-pitch route which starts left of the 1968 Herbert-Frost Route in vertical left-facing comers and goes up thin cracks near the arêt...
The Drop-Out. This is a short severe jam-crack at the base of the Leaning Tower ascended by Larry Young and me in August 1971. NCCS I, F10.Rick Sylvester
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn September 4, 1983, a climber (30) fractured his arm when he took a pendulum fall on the fifth pitch of Sam’s Swan Song (5.7). He and his ropemates got to within two pitches of the ground wh...
The Challenge, by Reinhold Messner, Translated by Noel Bowman and Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press and London: Kay and Ward, 1977. 205 pages, photographs. Price: $12.50.Nineteen seventy-five was a banner year for Himalayan mountai...
Mt. Bosworth. The same party. Via S. E. face from motor road about 1 mile E. of Wapta camp. Up scree ledges and gullies; laborious but easy to bastion on E. ridge about 500 ft. below summit. Thence up steep cracks and rotten rock to summit (survey...
Escalante Canyon. Chuck Grossman and Craig Luebben climbed Texas Finger Crack (5.11). The route is 400 feet right of the Interiors route and ascends a prominent overhanging left-facing dihedral with an off-width crack.Eric Bjørnstad
Lowell Peak, West Ridge. Dave Hesleden and I visited the St. Elias Range planning to climb a route on either Pinnacle Peak (3,714m) or Lowell Peak (3,630m). We flew onto the Lowell Glacier from Kluane Lake on May 1 and made a camp at ca 2,000m, wh...
CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING, FATIGUEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 28,1985, Raymond Weinrich (30) and Charles Wolf (34) had climbed up to 5250meters on the West Buttress route on Mt. McKinley. They arrived about 2330 on their ninth day after leaving b...
P 6960, Latok Group. Hoping to climb a technical Himalayan peak using alpine techniques, we attempted P 6960 (22,835 feet), situated between the Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and Latok II, by a route up the northwest ridge. Chris Gilley, John Bennison, Ame...
Broad Peak. We started from Dassu with 52 porters on June 24 and got to Base Camp at 16,400 feet, west of Broad Peak, eight days later with 42 porters, having been able to send ten back who had been carrying food. We had no high-altitude porters a...
In late June, Rex Hoff and Gale Long climbed the left gully of the two prominent gullies which ascend from the cirque below the east face of Bomber Mountain to the southeast ridge of the mountain (NCCS II, F3). Having heard their optimistic report...
Turret Peak. First ascent, August 20, 1938. E. Cromwell, Miss G. Engelhard, F. S. North. A small rock summit projecting through the middle of the snowfield halfway between Pigeon Spire and Marmolata. To breakfast place at head of moraine on middle...
FALLING CORNICE, AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount BryceOn the afternoon of June 13, 1987, a party of four left the Columbia Icefields Centre for a series of climbs. The climbers were three captains (25, 24, 27) and a corporal (26)...
Baruntse. A commercial expedition of the German Alpine Club’s Mountain and Ski School of 16 climbers was led by Günther Härter. They climbed the normal southeast ridge. They made two camps above Base Camp. On three successive days 11 Europeans and...
Rock Stars: the World’s Best Free Climbers. Heinz Zak. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother: Munich, 1997. Distributed in the U.S. by John Barstow’s Photography. Profuse color photography. 216 pages. $59.95.WOW! The only thing more impressive than the resumes...
Canadian Rockies: Mt. Monchy and Mt. Hooge. Travelling up the valley of the Alexandra River, one may have glimpses of Mt. Hooge (10,550 ft.), set far back at the head of Amery Creek. This region has been little visited; and even Mt. Amery (10,943 ...
Cho Oyu. An international expedition was led by the Swiss Stefan Wörner. They followed close after the Poles on the new route up the southwest face of Cho Oyu. The expedition had originally been given a permit to attempt Cho Oyu via its east ridge...
ALLEN B. HAMILTON1920-1980Allen B. Hamilton was killed in a climbing accident at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, on May 10, 1980. Although A1 was 59 at the time of his tragic fall, he had been climbing for only eight years, having been introduced to the s...
Raksha Urai, Attempt. Hubert Fitzwallner led an Austro-German expedition that on October 20 reached a high point of just under 6000 meters on one of the summits of Rakshi Urai. The team climbed the east ridge to the east face in their attempt. (Hi...