The pressure is rising. Clear skies move from the south, and brilliant stars appear overhead. In under three weeks in Patagonia, I have soloed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. Already I have far exceeded my expectations, yet I still search for something ...
Bhagirathi III, West Face. Our team was formed by Juan C. Aldeguer, Sergio Martínez, José L. Moreno and me. On April 26 we arrived at Base Camp at 4300 meters. The following day we began to ferry loads to Advance Base at 5000 meters at the foot of...
December 20. Andres Zegers (Chile) and I are at the Plaza Francia, and the weather is fantastic. We are watching the face, noting the fall lines of avalanches and seracs. There appears to be the possibility of a new variation to the 1985 French Di...
Bhagirathi II, 1989 and 1990. I have led two commercial expeditions to Bhagirathi II. We were successful in getting four clients and two guides to the summit in 1989 but bad conditions stopped our 1990 attempt at 6200 meters. Both times we climbed...
EAST OF THE HIMALAYA "Overview" "Part I: East Tibet" "Part II: Three Rivers Gorges of The Hengduan Mountains" "Part III: West Sichuan Highland-Yangtze River Basin" From the “Alps of Tibet” to the eastern fringes of t...
A.A.C., New York Section. Several new overtures marked the year of 1990. The New York Section Environmental Fund, designed to assist clean-up operations, made its first grant—for $1,000—to the Everest Environmental Expedition organized by Bob McCo...
K2: Life and Death on the World’s Most Dangerous Mountain. Ed Viesturs, with David Roberts. Broadway Books, 2009. 342 pages. Color and black & white photos. Hardcover $26.00.K2: Lies and Treachery. Robert Marshall. Carreg Limited, 2009. 232 pa...
George R. Senner 1924-2003While in the Park Service at Mount Rainier National Park, I developed some of the closest friendships of my life, and many of us guides and park rangers met gals who later became our wives. It was there that my brother K ...
Information on IceSeven years of first ascents and data collection in Antarctica.Damien GildeaI love The Information. I don’t know why, I just do; it’s the way I am. I also love mountains and climbing, and for 15 years I’ve felt compelled to give ...
HORST von HENNIG1902-1992On November 30, Horst von Hennig passed away at this home of over 50 years in Greenwich, Connecticut. The day before, he had celebrated his 90th birthday. He had been a member of the American Alpine Club since 1952. He was...
Little Switzerland, Crown and Dix Glaciers, Various First Ascents. After being airlifted by Talkeetna Air Taxi director Paul Roderick onto the previously unnamed glacier (now proposed as the East Fork of the Crown) southeast of The Crown Jewel, Br...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY and PROTECTIONWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Owen-SpauldingOn July 4 at 0925, Jackson Hole Mountain Guide Allan Bard (44) took a fatal leader fall while guiding on the Owen- Spaulding Route on the G...
Pajan Zhari and “Gompa Garpo Ri,” first known ascents. In September and October I returned to the Nyanchen Tanglha Range, situated about 80km north of Lhasa. In 2000 I had been in the same area with two friends, and we succeeded on three 6,000m pe...
Mongun Taiga, Tuva, Southern Siberia, 1993. Our expedition’s main objective was to unify the separate disciplines of mountain-biking and mountaineering in the hinterlands of central Asia, namely in the remote comers of the Republic of Tuva in sout...
Now It Can be ToldDuring the course of the war many members of the American Alpine Club may have felt grieved that the Club was not taking a greater part in the war effort. If so, they were deceived, for the President, the Council, the Mountain Wa...
Mount Index, North Norwegian Buttress, Voodoo Proj. Over five days in mid-July Blair Williams, with William Tharpe, Todd Karner, and me, added a steep new route to the North Norwegian Buttress. Voodoo Proj starts 100 yards to the right of the Door...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, LeavenworthJean Heineman (23) and I had been climbing together for some weeks in Yosemite Valley and were in Leavenworth finishing our trip of climbing. I had been climbing rock for most...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Pinnacles National MonumentOn May 8, 1982, Chad Carvey (18) and his unde, Crile Carvey (33), were attempting a route up a black waterchute on the Balconies when this accident occurred. They later learned that ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, East FaceOn August 3 at 0700, Jeff Snyder (24) was leading over the icy Mills Glacier to the base of Stetner’s Ledges III (AI 1 5.8) on the...
Lila Peak, West Face/North Ridge, First Official Ascent*. Lila Peak (6200 m) in the Gondokoro area of the Pakistan Karakoram was officially unclimbed; however, signs of a British group were found on the summit (gas cartridge) and west face-south s...