Book Reviews AAJ
Field Book, Wind River Range

Field Book. Wind River Range, by Orrin H. Bonney and L. Bonney. Revised. Houston: Published by Bonney and Bonney, 1968, 195 pages, 50 photos, 12 aerial photographs, 10 maps. Price $5.95, hard bound; $3.95, paper.Those acquainted with the first edi...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineering Club of Alaska

The Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Club members made several first ascents during the past climbing season. In June junior members Dave Meyers, Nick Parker, and Mike Judd climbed Mount Williwaw (5445 feet) after several previous attempts. Alex Bit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982

Ausangate, Northwest Face Attempt, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1982. On pages 206 and 208 of A.A.J., 1984, an ascent of Ausangate’s northwest face was described. A photograph of the route appears on page 207. In Lo Scarpone of July 1, 1984, an account a...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The 1970 year-end section membership was 135. A survey by Mike Rees was sent to members to gauge their interests in climbing and the Club. Publication of the revised guide book to the Olympic Mountains, which is sponsored ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest, Various Activity on the North Side, and Cho Oyu, Various Activity

Everest, Various Activity on the North Side, and Cho Oyu, Various Activity. Ten commercial expeditions on the Tibetan side and two in Nepal (several of them commercial as well) made attempts on Everest, but not a soul got to the top. This was the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range

Vinson Massif, Sentinel Range. On November 24, our group reached the summit of the Vinson Massif. We were Pete Ackerman, Bob Failing, John Otter, Bill Martin, Mike Meyer, Dave Tollakson and I. The ascent commenced following our November 17 landing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Tocllaraju

Tocllaraju. Our group was composed of Catherine Krieg of Lima and Swiss Max Gubser, Hans Bockhorn, Peter Hersperger, Martin Ineichen, Erwin Krebs, Heinz Schudel and me. From the Quebrada Ishinca we made the following ascents: Urus Este (17,782 fee...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Coast, Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, First Ascents

Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. A British expedition comprising Carole Feldman, Peter Hawksworth, Cath Walton, and I made 11 first ascents in the region south of the Hutchinson Glacier. The landing site, logistically about as far as a Tw...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Ascent and Tragedy

Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A French expedition of Chamonix guides was led by Serge Koenig and composed of Denis Ducroz, Hervé Thivièrge, Alain Payot, Jean-Paul Chassagne, Marc Galy, Daniel Audibert and Jean-Paul Balmat. They had hoped to broadcas...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate Equipment—Boots, Inexperience, Wyoming, Tetons

LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE, EQUIPMENT— BOOTS, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 30, 1985, two male employees (early 20s) from Jackson Lake Lodge were descending the snow fields below South Teton when one of them lost control o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Fitz Roy, North Face

Cerro Fitz Roy, north face. During January Frenchmen Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson, and Lionel Pouzadoux climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy. They spent a total of six days working on the route and fixed ropes to pit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Eastpost Spire, West Face, Bugaboos, 1989

Eastpost Spire, West Face, Bugaboos, 1989. In the first week of August 1989, Dave Turner and I climbed a new route on the west face of Eastpost Spire. From a point just right of a plumbline from the summit, we ascended a full 5.6 to 5.8 pitch on p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Vincent Massif Summary Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains

Around 120 people summited Mt. Vinson (4,892m), somewhat fewer than in recent years. Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) guide David Hamilton and friend Patrick Bird made the second ascent of Mt. Rutford (4,477m), probably the ninth high...

| Published 2010 | Author Damien Gildea


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, No Belay, Inexperience, Virginia, Great Falls

FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Virginia, Great FallsOn August 2, 1987, Sandy Welle (26) and Christopher Ireland (26) were preparing to descend a route called Cornice when the following happened, according to Ireland:I set up a t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Kedarnath Dome and Bhagirathi II

Kedarnath Dome and Bhagirathi II. Italian Renato Moro organized two successful commercial expeditions to the Gangotri region. In August Moro, F. Zurloni, P. Cappanetti, J. Summer and Henry Bizot climbed Kedarnath Dome (6830 meters, 22,408 feet). F...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Jersey: Appalachian Mountains, Delaware Water Gap

New Jersey: Appalachian Mountains, Delaware Water Gap. On 20 October 1951 Mary Ann Weborg, 17, of Newark, New Jersey, accompanied five Union Junior College Students and an instructor on a geology field trip in this area. The students were all girl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks above Darban Glacier

Peaks Above Darban Glacier. A six-man German expedition led by Eggert Keller was in the Darband Glacier region. On June 26 Peter Bienek climbed Q6 (20,475 feet) and M9 (20,538 feet) from the Camp I above the Darband Glacier. On July 4 Keller and B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Cerro Mercedario (6,770m), East Face, A Contramano South America, Argentina, Central Andes, Cordillera de la Ramada

During November 2010 Fernando Daneri (Argentina) and Edgardo Liberman (Panamá, but resident in Buenos Aires) climbed a new route, A Contramano (1,300m, AD) on the east face. They had spotted the line during an evacuation of a corpse. They spent ...

| Published 2010 | Author Marcelo Scanu, Argentina


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Climbing Alone, Dropped Rope, California, Yosemite Valley

STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, DROPPED ROPE California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, 1989, at 1046, dispatch received a call from an Awhanee bellman concerning cries for help from the Serenity Crack area.Ranger Korthius responded and found Dan M. Klein (3...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Chogolisa Traverse

Chogolisa Traverse. From September 10 to 15 our expedition, Liam Elliot, Hamish Irvine, Ulric Jessop, Simon Lamb and I as leader, made the first complete traverse of Chogolisa’s twin summits (7665 meters or 25,148 feet; 7654 meters or 25,112 feet)...