Mount Harmon, Olive Ridge Spires and Black Fang, Scottish Peaks. The Scottish Peaks rise from the Catamount Glacier about 15 miles south of the Bugaboos. Although smaller and lower than the Bugaboos, their rock is of the same excellent quality. We...
P 6131 Ascent and Tragedy. The well known Indian climber Asit Kumar Moitra led an eight-man team composed of Samir Bhattacharya, Manas Bardhan, Nabagopal Basak, Ramjan Bose, Krishna Ganguli, Asish Roy and Sanjoy Roy. They set up three high camps a...
Phillip Smith Mountains. We made a new route from the upper Ribdon to the headwaters of the Wind River, traversing the ridge west of Windy Glacier and descending onto the ice. The upper Ribdon is endowed with alpine meadows, limestone buttresses, ...
Unnamed Peak, First Ascent. It was reported that on June 14, prior to his second (again unsuccessful) attempt to ski K2, Hans Kammerlander led a large party of clients to the top of a previously unclimbed ca. 6000-meter peak. The peak is located t...
Cho Oyu from the South, Pre-Monsoon. Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) continues to be a popular objective, the west side often being reached from Nepal. Alain Hantz, leader of a group of six Frenchmen, climbed to the summit of Cho Oyu with Nepal...
Sosbun Tower Attempt. Tilman described the peaks of the Hoh Valley as “an uncompromising rock wall crowned with jagged towers,” but the attraction of these towers is deceptive; the rock everywhere is dangerous: enormous, rotten loose rocks and cra...
Nun. The Nippon Himalaya Mountaineering Association expedition was led by Mitsuaki Nishigori. They were plagued by much deep snow. Camps were at 17,325, 19,000, 20,650 and 21,325 feet. From Camp IV on the north ridge Akinori Hosaka and Aslam reach...
Korzhenevskaya, Pamirs. After three storm-bound weeks on Pik Lenin, our joint REI-Crimea Alpine Club expedition was helicoptered to the 4500-meter Moskvina Base Camp on August 12. After a rest day, we stormed the mountain by the Suloyeva Ridge in ...
Trollveggen and Mongejura Enchainment. Last summer in the Romsdal Valley, Robert Casperson and Geir Arne Bore managed to free climb both the Swedish Route on the Troll Wall (Trollveggen) and Mongejura’s South Pillar in one continuous effort. That ...
Tumwater Canyon. Two difficult new routes were completed on Midnight Rock last spring. Eric Bjornstad and I climbed the “Black Widow” route, using wooden blocks and pitons placed on attempts two years before, and then finished a free-roof on a lin...
Val d’Hérens, by Paul Budry (French text) and Franz Baeschlin (German text). 16 pages of text (with the two languages in parallel columns), 76 illustrations. Neuchatel: Editions de la Baconniere, 1951.Here is the first of a series of small books a...
Huayna Potosí, West Ridge. Rab Carrington and I climbed the west ridge of Huayna Potosí in May. (The first ascent was by Laba and Hudson in 1969, when the ridge was incorrectly identified as being northeast.—Editor.) The first attempt failed due t...
Mount Tupper, South Face, Selkirks. Ever since the opening of the Rogers Pass section of the Trans-Canada Highway, I had been hoping to get onto the now easily accessible, unclimbed south face of Mount Tupper, which towers magnificently north of t...
Nanda Devi, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition comprised Vladimír Starcala, leader, Dr. Jan Charousek, Kamil Karafa, Ludek Záhoran- ský, Ceslav Wojcik, Bretislav Husicka, Petr Hapala, Jan Marek, Josef Zeitler, Josef Kývala, Leos Horka, Petr Gribe...
M7, West Face, Mandaras Valley. A 12-man Catalan expedition was in the Mandaras valley from July 15 to August 15. After a two-day approach from Qadzi-Deh with 16 porters we placed Base Camp at 13,750 feet. A high camp was placed at 16,750 feet at ...
Tilicho, Third Ascent. On October 10 our eight members left Dumre with six Sherpas and 40 porters and reached Base Camp at Tilitso, a lake at 16,075 feet 14 days later. We fixed some 2250 feet of rope on the mixed climbing above Base Camp. On Octo...
Mount Hayes, East Face. In April, Tom Walter and I flew to the Alaska Range to try a new route on the unclimbed 6400-foot east face of Mount Hayes (4216 meters, 13,832 feet). The face consisted of 50% snow and 50% blue ice, much more of the latter...
Geladaintong, Northeast Face. I was invited by Geographic Expeditions to guide two American clients, William Rom, M.D. and Dan Luchtel, Ph.D., on a peak called Geladaintong (one of a few spellings), which is 6621 meters high and located at what th...
The Highest Summits of the Continents. In trying to calculate which are the highest summits of each of the continents, one must first figure whether Australia should be taken as a continent by itself or whether the islands of the Pacific should be...
Climbing in the Quebrada Rajucolta and Huascarán. In early June, 1971, Laurie Skreslet, John Stanley and I climbed Huamashraju and then crossed the valley to climb to the western summit of Cashan Oeste, where we followed the western ridge the whol...