Puntancuerno. Our expedition was composed of Bernardo Davila, leader, Augusto Ortega, Jorge Pinatte, Ricardo Colonia, Alfonso Estremadoyro, Juan Miguel Alba and me. We placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the shores of Yuraccocha on August 14. We ma...
Kalanka, First Ascent, 1975. (Somehow this important first ascent escaped the notice of much of the Western mountaineering press.) The Kamiichi Hoso-Kai Expedition was led by Ikuo Tanabe and composed of Noriaki Ikeda, Tsuneo Kouma and Kazumasa Ino...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Sloan PeakMatthew Strominger (22) fell 1,000 feet to his death on Sloan Peak on July 15. He and his two partners were only a few hundred feet from the summit of the 7,835-foot peak.Strominger was part of a...
Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. The Chileans Mario Puig del Río and Claudio Lucero Martínez reached the summit of Huascarán on August 5, having climbed the normal route.Urus Este and Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. We made two ascents of Urus Este (17...
Nanga Parbat, Various Attempts. Three Italians led by Oscar Piazza failed at 6800 meters on the Kinshofer Route. Three Canadians (who got their permit from Americans who had canceled their expedition) are reported to have failed on the Kinshofer R...
Idaho Alpine Club. Founded in 1960, the Idaho Alpine Club has now completed its second year of existence. Our membership stands at 51, with members mainly from the Idaho Falls area. The club has joined the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs. Acti...
Bastion Peak, East Face. From camp at Amethyst Lake in the Ramparts, on August 4 Jerry Fuller and I walked around the marshy north end of the lake and climbed snow and then glacier to the final rock walls some 1500 feet beneath the summit ridge of...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Garfield. The party of Mike Kennedy (19) and Roger Jackson set out to climb a previously unclimbed spire near Mt. Garfield, on June 21. The weather was dry and warm. The spire required some high angle rock climbing. Kenne...
Nanda Devi, South Ridge. On June 21 David Hambly, David Mc- Clung, William Fryberger, Bruce Byers, Steve Casebold and Glenn Brindeiro of the 1978 Seattle-Garhwal Himalaya Expedition made the seventh recorded ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645 feet) by t...
Peak Shear, First Ascent, Mt. Tyree, Northeast Couloir, and Mt. Vinson, Tragedy. The French High Mountaineering Military Group (GMHM) was in Antarctica this season. It established several new routes from a base camp on the Patton Glacier. P. De Ch...
Hunter, South Ridge. During May, Ed Hart and I climbed the south ridge of Hunter, partly by the 1973 Waterman-Carman-Black route, traversed the mountain and descended the west ridge in a 12-day alpine-style ascent. We were flown to the Tokositna G...
New York, Shawangunks. On 18 May deVries was leading on an overhang known as Shackley’s Ceiling near top of the cliffs. He was clipped into a piton just under the overhang by means of a sling and two carabi- ners. Neave was belaying deVries from a...
Ahmad Shah Hindu Kush (Salang Region). The Kraków expedition led by Jerzy Wala started its activities near the Khenjan valley. (See above for the later explorations and climbs) While geomorphic work was being carried out under the direction of L. ...
Caullaraju Group. A Brazilian expedition authorized by the União Brasileira de Excursionismo operated in the Caullaraju group of the beautiful Cordillera Blanca. Because of my previous expeditions there, I was put in charge of the group made up of...
Nilgiri North Attempt. Three South Koreans led by Oh In Hawan attempted to climb Nilgiri North by its south face. They established two high camps but did not get beyond 20,350 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club
Scott Peak, Northwest Face. On August 24, Mark Stasic and I climbed a new route on the northwest face of Scott Peak (2691 meters, 8828 feet). This route runs from 6500 to 8500 feet and tops out on the ridge between Scott Peak and its subsidiary su...
AVALANCHE OR ROCKFALLAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Deltaform, SupercouloirOn June 5, two climbers in their early 20’s were reported overdue attempting the Supercouloir route (IV 5.8) on the North face of Mount Deltaform, near Lake Louise, tw...
Pass or Fail. In November 1971 Gib Lewis and I climbed a three-pitch climb to the west of the Cross Country Crack in the Arch Rock area. The crux is a jam-crack. NCCS II, F10.Rick Sylvester
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club, in its 66th year of operation, again sponsored a full climbing program with 42 trips attended by 562 members and prospectives, as well as a successful two week camp on Roger’s Pass in the Selkirk Mountains...
Cambridge Fjord, Alain Estève Peak, Sous l’œil de Nanouk. Combining their experience of polar deserts and of mountains all over the world, climbers of the French High Mountain Military Group (GMHM) went to the Canadian north and climbed a virgin p...