CLIMBING ALONE, IMPROPER EQUIPMENT—California, Mt. Shasta. Some time on the 15th of September, John Saulsberry (55) attempted a climb of Mt. Shasta from the ski bowl. On the evening of the 15th and 16th an early storm hit the area, dropping large ...
Monte Buckland, Tierra del Fuego. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Carlo Mauri made in February the first ascent of extremely difficult Monte Buckland (5905 feet), which rises above the Straits of Magellan. Other members of the party ...
Yuzhu Feng, Eastern Kunlun, Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Yasuji and Kimio Moriyama, Hiroaki Tokuda, Yasuji Wakita, Yasuo Ota and me as leader. We arrived at Xining via Beijing on July 23. On July 25, we left Xining by jeep and drove thr...
Dome Kang, east-southeast ridge, attempt. From September 7 to October 14 a six-member Spanish expedition (Elena Goded, Emilio Lagunilla, Guillermo Manana, Daniel Salas, Carlos Soria, and I) attempted the unclimbed Dome Kang (7,264m) in the northea...
The Lighthouse. Located ten miles east of Moab, the Lighthouse is a prominent sandstone spire rising above the south rim of the Colorado River canyon. On June 1 Harvey Carter, Tom Merrill, and I reached the overhanging summit by an east-face route...
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section enjoyed an active 2008 with our members climbing, reaching out to the climbing community, and working to protect the places we climb. We hosted our traditional “Climb-munity” gatherings for both our...
Yerupajá Chico. Yves Astier made the second ascent of the north face solo on June 1. This was previously reported as Yerupajá Sur.Rasac and Yerupajá Sur, West Face Direct, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition was composed of Emili Civis, Lluis Bel...
The Weeping Wall, Stoneagin. From July 30 to August 19, Shinichi Sakamoto, Misako Koyanagi and Mike Libecki made the first ascent of The Weeping Wall via Stoneagin (VI5.9 A3+, 550 meters. The Weeping Wall is on the Weeping Glacier close to Breidib...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The following talks and pictures were presented at our four meetings in 1964: Richard Millikan: "The Wicker- sham Wall of Mount McKinley;” Royal Robbins: "Advanced Rock Climbing Techniques"; Carlos Puente and Eduardo...
Nanda Ghunti. Swapan Ghosh, Dawa Tsering and Phuba Tarkey reached the summit of Nanda Ghunti (20,700 feet) on October 2.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Jirishanca Chico Oeste, Trapecio, Rasac, Cordillera Huayhuash. My wife Silvia Metzeltin and I climbed in the Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 19 we climbed Jirishanca Chico Oeste (5270 meters, 17,290 feet) by what we think is a new route, the south r...
Yerupajá, Ski Descent. Very difficult ski descents continue to be made. Patrick Vallençant skied down the west face of Yerupajá, starting in the col between the south and main summits.
Annapurna—Dhaulagiri area. During two years spent as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Pokhara from 1962 to 1964 I managed to get time off for occasional treks and climbs in the nearby mountains, which are here somewhat belatedly reported. The first majo...
Ak-Su Valley, Various Ascents. An expedition made up of Davide Brambilla, Roberto Colombo, Stefano Elli, Federico Ferrari, Giovanni Isella and Massimiliano Pozzi, six alpinists between the ages of 23 and 29, sojourned in the valley of Ak-Su from J...
FitzRoy, Patagonia. The expedition led by Jorge Peterek had very bad luck. They intended to climb FitzRoy in February following the French route on the east face. After reaching the region in a spell of bad weather, not unusual in Patagonia, they ...
Mount Conness, “Flakes of Fury,” Tuolumne Meadows Area. On July 11 Chris Vandiver and I climbed a new free route on the right side of the 1200-foot-high southwest face of Mount Conness. “Flakes of Fury” was named for the consistently crumbling, lo...
Chomolhari. Captain Prem Chand, Instructor Dorje Lhatoo of the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, Santosh Arora and Sherpa Thondup made the second ascent of Chomolhari (23,930 feet) at 10:25 A.M. on April 23. This most sacred mountain of Bhutan, ...
National. The National Park Service has been keenly aware of the dangers to be encountered in the mountains, especially after the accidents in the Tetons last summer. Various suggestions have been offered: (1) trail markers to warn climbers of haz...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn August 5, James A. Guest (32) took a 30-foot lead fall on Pervertical Sanctuary (V 5.10) on the Diamond of Longs Peak. Guest impacted hard against both feet, r...
Nepalese Himalaya, Peak Bagging and Other Activity in the Post-Monsoon. This autumn’s weather seemed unremittingly bad for climbing, without the normal break of a couple of weeks of fine days and nights between the end of the monsoon rains/snowfal...