Monument Basin, Various Ascents. With various partners, I was involved in the following ascents. Tutti-Frutti (two pitches, 5.10 C2), on the Pixie Stick (first ascent of tower), Monument Basin, with Paul Gagner, Donna Raupp, and Dave Goldstein. Th...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 31, 1993, the Denali ’93 Australian-Salzburg Expedition flew to the Southwest Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb of the West Buttress. The six person expedition w...
Kwangde Shar, north face, second ascent to the summit, Extra Blue Sky. During the autumn British climbers Jon Bracey and Owen Samuel made the second ascent of Extra Blue Sky to the summit of ca 6100m Kwangde Shar (fourth ascent to its junction wit...
Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower. Our expedition was made up of Masanori Hoshina, Satoshi Kimoto, Masahiro Kosaka, Takaaki Sasakura, Yoshitaro Arisaka and me as leader. We stayed at our Base Camp or above from the end of June until the middle...
Overview. In 2009 there were 64 Indian and 37 foreign expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, the total of 101 being the largest in recent years. Many Indian expeditions visited peaks that have been climbed many times (Satopanth, Chhamser Kangri), and...
SLIP ON SNOW, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount HaddoAfter a successful ascent of Mt. Haddo (3071 meters) on September 16, a party of three were descending a gully system toward Paradise Valley from the Haddo-Aber- deen saddle, when the h...
K2, Swiss Attempt. A Swiss expedition consisting of Peter Schwitter, leader, Beat Ruppen, Norbert Huser, Rupert Ruckstuhl and Frenchwoman Chantai Mauduit made an attempt on the Abruzzi Ridge of K2 that ended at 7400 meters in late July due to bad ...
Siachen region, Laxmi, attempt by northwest face. A 10-member team from the Indian Navy attempted Laxmi (Lakshmi; 6,850m), a virgin peak on the Teram Shehr Glacier. Lt. Cdr. Amit Pande, who was deputy leader of the Navy’s Everest expedition in 200...
SLIP ON ROCK – BOULDER FIELDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon Boulder FieldOn July 22, in the early afternoon, I received a call from Exum Mountain Guide Trevor Deighton. He said that a member of his party had sustained an isolated...
Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey in October-November. Following a new approach route, they climbed the peak as autumn cold and snow was settling in. ...
Beatrice, Southeast Face. In last year’s volume (p. 327), the two 1997 British routes on Beatrice were reported. We now have the opportunity to show the lines of ascent (see photos, left and right).
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, MOSTLY CLIMBING UNROPED OR NOT ANCHOREDWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State Park and Peninsula State ParkReports from Devil’s Lake State Park provide an interesting contrast to the Shawangunks in that the average age of the climber...
Salcantay, Northeast Face Direct. Our expedition consisted of Theo Dowbenka, Rudolf Friedhuber, Martin Klein, Austrians, and Elmar Fries and I as leader, both Germans. We started from the village of Mollepata. Base Camp lay at 14,925 feet on the n...
Blodgett Canyon, Drip Buttress, McWonder Muffins, Previously Unreported. Eric Roberts and I climbed a new five-pitch aid route in October, 1999. McWonder Muffins (V 5.7 A3) ascends 200 feet east of the Drip Buttress Route on the south face and is ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn May 19, Carlos Loria (age unknown) was descending the Coe Glacier after making the summit. He slipped and fell 700 feet, fracturing his neck. He had been reported overdue by his brother....
Everest Attempts and Tragedy in the Post-Monsoon. In September, the monsoon continued till late in the month and brought large amounts of snow and great avalanche danger. At the beginning of October, it was as if someone had turned on the wind mac...
Locke Rock, Oktoberfest. This will probably be the prettiest face you see upstream from Leopold Dome. Viewed from Dusy Creek, the route Nicholas Boyd and I climbed is on the far left side of a formation one half-mile south of P 9963. (Grade II, 5....
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck. On July 29, Gary Clark (16) and two other Explorer Scouts had just completed the first of a four-day crosscountry trip. The area had numerous steep cliffs but always a good scramble route around them or up a wid...
Americans Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker had as their objective the unclimbed southeast pillar of Annapurna III, a 7555-meter peak to the east of Annapurna I. Since they planned to scale their challenging pillar in pure alpine style, they first did an...
Perdition Peak, North Ridge. From the distance, this appeared as a clean line, but close inspection revealed the northeast rib to be a better choice. On August 13 Steve Ollila and I discovered this as we descended from a low point on the northeast...