Mount Tupper, West Buttress of South Face. After several abortive attempts on the south face, Glen Spillman and I climbed the west buttress, a fine climb on sharp, sound quartzite. Unfortunately an imminent electrical storm forced us to traverse t...

Nevado Huallanca, Koso. Between the cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash is the small Cordillera Huallanca. Although it does not rise above 6000m, it offers beautiful mountains with glaciers and rocks. David Rodriguez Lopez climbed the mountain known ...

Palcaraju Este and Copap Group. Although our expedition was away from Switzerland from May 22 to September 11, we climbed for only five weeks. We were Pierre-André Jaunin, Lucien Rentchnik, Michel Duport and I. After three weeks struggling with th...

Avalanche School at Alta, Utah. The primary objective of this school, under the supervision of the U.S. Forest Service, was to give training in avalanche studies: terrain analysis, climate analysis, snow studies and records, hazard forecasting, pr...

Manaslu. After the German-Swiss expedition mentioned above had climbed the peak, Germans led by Günther Sturm repeated the ascent also by the normal route. They placed Camps I, II, III and IV at 5200, 6200, 6800 and 7400 meters on April 19 and 28 ...

Cutthroat Peak. In August, Hugh Sincock and I climbed a new route on the southwest side of Cutthroat Peak. This is a clean, winding gully that joins the west ridge just below the summit. It is the second gully right (south) of the ridge. The climb...

P 3129, Northeast Buttress. On November 7, Chris Breemer and I arrived at the base of Mount Morrison to find its north face out of condition, or at least out of condition for us. Rather than to go home without accomplishing anything on such a warm...

Khwaja Muhammad Range. Yasu Takeuchi led nine members of the High School Athletic Association of Fukuoka. Leaving Kabul on July 8, they entered the mountains via Anjuman village and established Base Camp on the 17th. The highest peaks climbed were...

Mather, North Ridge. In three short days, Jeff Apple Benowitz and I reached the bottom of the climb from the Denali Park Road via Glacier Creek. The lower part of the ridge has impossibly rotten rock. We avoided this by climbing a 2000-foot couloi...

Latok III, west face, attempt and tragedy. A strong Russian team met with tragedy during their attempt on the unclimbed 2,000-meter-high West Face of Latok III (6949m). Igor Barikhin, Mikhail Davy, Sergey Khadzhinov, Alexander Klenov, Alexander Ru...

Parchamo, Rolwaling Himal. A group of 12 Swedish Mountaineers visited the Rolwaling Himal in October and early November. Four of us spent two very cold nights on the Teshi Lapcha Pass, from which my wife Lena Karlkvist made a solo (!) ascent of Pa...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, near summit of the Grand Teton— On August 21, at about 10:10 A.M., Joseph W. Keubler (20), was fatally injured in a climbing accident near the summit of the Grand Teton. He was leading the climbing party and was...

ROPE FAILURE—California, Yosemite Valley. At 5 p.m. on October 5, 1976, Ranger Rick Smith received a phone call from Mirror Lake. Chris Falkenstein reported that his climbing partner, Robert Locke (22), had sustained serious injuries during a 200-...

Xao Xuebao Ding, 1991. On page 270 of AAJ, 1992, we reported on the first ascent of Xuebao Ding in Sichuan but failed to record the ascent by another Japanese expedition of Xao Xuebao Ding (5540 meters, 18,176 feet), which lies just to the southea...

Mount Formidable, Winter Ascent. On January 3 and 4, my brother Gordy and I climbed Mount Formidable by its north ridge. Except for some washouts on the road and trail, the approach up the Middle Cascade River differed little from summer. From an ...

Chandra Parbat I. Our Australian team of eight made the first ascent of Chandra Parbat I (6739 meters, 22,110 feet), which lies on the eastern bank of the Suralaya Glacier. There seems to be confusion over our peak’s name (P 6739 or Chandra Parbat...

Guide du Skieur dans les Alpes Valaisannes, by Marcel Kurz. 2 vols. (I, du Col de Balme au Col Collon; II, du Col Collon au Monte Moro.) 2nd edition. Club Alpin Suisse, 1939.Marcel Kurz’s ski guide to the Valais covers the finest country in the Al...

Fitz Roy, Various Ascents. Only two teams made it up Fitz Roy in the 1995-1996 season, despite attempts by at least two dozen expeditions to the area. The first team successful on the mountain was a five-man French group made up of members of the ...

Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, 7th edition. Steven M. Cox, Kris Fulsaas, editors; chapters by members of The Mountaineers. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2003. 575 pages. Hardcover, $37.95; paperback, $26.95.I took the Seattle Mountai...

Adventure Guide to Mount Rainier: Hiking, Climbing and Skiing in Mount Rainier National Park. Jeff Smoot. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado 80439, 1991. 172 pages. 38 photos, 54 line maps, 27 oblique-perspective (and profile) peak sketches. $1...