FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT California, Tahquitz Rock, ConsolationOn July 4, 1992, I was about 25 feet into the third pitch of our climb when I came off. Two pieces that I had placed failed. One was a small Metolius tri-cam unit a few feet...
Uli Biaho Spire. A New Zealand expedition was made up of leader Nicholas Craddock, Guy Cotter, Paul Rogers and Murray Judge. In July, they climbed the Uli Biaho Spire, although we do not know by which route. Details have not yet reached us.
Sickle Moon Tragedy. A nine-member team of the Japanese Self Defense Force was led by Lieutenant Colonel Fumio Yunoki and included two women. They reached Kishtwar on July 7, trekked through Kiyar, the last village, and set up Base Camp at the sno...
Italian Expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota and the Cordillera Carabaya. Piero Ghiglione, now 76 years old, with the Peruvian porter, Fortunato Mautino climbed Sahuasiray (17,060 feet) on June 12 and made the first ascents of Huautinsuyo (16,40...
Colorado, Little Bear—On September 1, 1956, a warm cloudless day with no wind, a party of five climbers (Mark Bostwick, David and Paul Duncan, Ben Rhodes and Banks Caywood) left the Denver Junior Summer Outing camp site at Como Lake to climb Blanc...
Piramidalny and Other Peaks, Pamir Alai. It was not difficult to get to the region. The Russians tooks us in a helicopter. The cirque of towers was lovely with great possibilites of new routes, although the granite was not always of the best quali...
Peaks Between the Kahiltna Glacier and Spink Lake. From the Kahiltna Glacier, Roger Robinson and I traversed over to the Granite Creek Glacier to explore its upper regions and then continue east. We climbed P 5610 on our way over to the Kanikula G...
Everest, north face, new route. Elizabeth Hawley’s account of the Russian new route on the north face of Everest, along with commentary from Yuri Koshelenko, a team member, is in the Tibet section of this AAJ.
ASAHEL CURTIS1874-1941Asahel Curtis was one of the small but devoted group of outdoor idealists who founded the Seattle Mountaineers. He led their first three summer outings, creating a climbing technique through which a few skilled climbers could...
Pt. 6,190m and Pt. ca 5,754m, first ascents. Two members of the Kumamoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club, Koichi Kato and Makiji Kiso, made a reconnaissance of Yakawa Kang (6,482m), the peak immediately north of the Thorang La and first offici...
Mount Kilimanjaro, Hein Glacier, Snowboard Attempt. Wade McKoy and I climbed to 17,000 feet on the Hein Glacier route, which proved much steeper and icier than the photos in the guide showed. We lost a lot of time by belaying most of the route and...
Snow Creek Wall, Orbit Route. A second route on the southern half of this slabby 900-foot granite wall was completed in early November after a series of previous attempts had been frustrated by short daylight and early-season snowfall. The route, ...
Glarnerland, by Hans Trümpy. 135 pages, 80 full-page photographic illustrations by Walter Läubli. Glarus: Verlag Tschudi. Price, $6.25.The Canton of Glarus, known for its splendid peak, the Tödi, lies east of the St. Gotthard road. Its main valley...
White Chuck Mountain, East Face. On September 10 Ben Guydelkon and I climbed the east face via the narrow couloir that splits the face from right to left. Ten leads of about 140 feet each got us to the summit ridge and two minutes later we stood o...
Consolation Peak and P 5500, Pangnirtung Pass Area. In early May, Dave Shoemaker, Rick West, John Mallery and I spent nine days climbing in the Pangnirtung Pass region of Auyuittuq National Park. Travel into the pass from Pangnirtung was made by s...
Illimani, North Ridge and Tiquimani, West Ridge, Cordillera Real. Phillip Stuart Dawson and I climbed the north ridge of Illimani in five days (from September 20 to 24, 1976) of atrocious weather. We have since discovered that Italians made the as...
Mount Woolley, South Face. After hair-raising experiences on the road, Karl Gerdes, Rob Boyd, Chris Jones, Jim Sedinger, Tom Kemp and I crossed the cold and swift waters of the Sunwapta River bound for Mount Alberta. Woolley shoulder is something ...
Mostly Mischief, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter Ltd., 1966. 191 pages, 16 pages of photographs, 5 maps. Price: 30s.Four voyages by H. W. Tilman are chronicled and as the title suggests, three of them were made aboard Mischief, his "r...
Mount Manzo Nagano, Coast Range. On July 25, Bob Drescher and I had the distinct pleasure of accompanying David, Jim and Steve Nagano on the first ascent of this fine mountain, recently named in honor of their great-grandfather, the first Japanese...
Lost Brother, Northwest Face. On the morning of June 10, after 3 days of climbing, Al MacDonald, Dave French, Gary Westernoff and I completed the first ascent of this spectacular 1200-foot face. On June 8, we reached a small but adequate bivouac l...