North Face of Mt. Edwards, Ascent. Chris Trimble and I hiked in to an igloo constructed at Lower Snyder Lake late in the evening on April 2. At 7 a.m. the next morning, we were looking up at the north face of Mt. Edwards immediately above Upper Sn...
Ganesh III. An expedition of four Japanese and three Nepalese led by Ken Kanazawa climbed the northeast ridge to the north ridge of Ganesh III, the same route attempted in 1980 by a Japanese-Nepalese party. They established three camps, the highes...
Ananea, North Face and Other Ascents. From a base near lake Trapiche and one high camp, Alain Besson, Pierre Bossy and Serge Marjolin, members of a Megève expedition, made the first ascent on June 1 of the north face of Ananea (5824 meters, 19,111...
Gasherbrum I and II, Ascents. Alan Hinkes (U.K.) summitted two 8000ers during the 1996 season: Gasherbrum I on July 10 at 10 a.m. and Gasherbrum II on July 29 at 4 p.m. Hinkes was part of an Austrian expedition led by Wilfried Studer.Asem Mustafa ...
Devil’s Thumb, South Pillar, first free ascent. In July Carl Diedrich and I spent several weeks climbing and exploring around the Devil’s Thumb. Our main objective was to free climb the imposing South Pillar of the Thumb. However, we felt we first...
Cordillera de Quimza Cruz, Los Cuernos del Diablo. On April 11, Pete Grosset (UK) and I climbed a new route on Los Cuernos del Diablo (5271m). The route consisted of six pitches (250 meters) on solid granite and followed a straight line directly u...
P 7254, P 6842, P5651, P 7724, P 7138, Chugach Mountains. On June 19, Conner Hough, Kelley Miller-Pluckebaum, Bob Pluckebaum, Bob Schindler and I flew to an iceberg-choked lake west of the Tana Glacier and north of the Bagley Icefield, one of the ...
FALL ON SNOW-SKIING, BINDINGS FAILED TO RELEASE Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 17, 1986, Heim Gunther (30) and the other ten members of the “Schwaebische” expedition were returning to 4350 meters from a successful summit climb of the West Buttress. ...
Meru North, Women’s Expedition Attempt. Our women’s expedition, accompanied by a female Indian liaison officer, consisted of Nadia Billia, An- nalisa Cogo, Laura Ferrero, Alessandra Gafurri, Mariola Masciadri, Oriana Pecchio, Annelise Rochat and m...
Mount Crawford, Chatsquot-Smaby Icefields, North Central Coast Range, British Columbia. Pete Parrotta and I were helicoptered to the remote Chatsquot- Smaby Icefields and established Base Camp 110 kilometers north-northwest of Bella Coola beside t...
AVALANCHE ON ICE CLIMBAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade WaterfallOn February 26, 1988, two experienced British climbers, John Bums (33) and Stephen Travers (32), attempted Cascade Waterfall, the most popular ice climb near Banff, during an unseaso...
WILBUR DAVIS 1921-1996Wilbur Davis has been a member of the Iowa Mountaineers for over 37 years. He served as an outing and climbing leader on many of the Iowa Mountaineer North American and international outings and expeditions. His love for enco...
P 6504 Attempt. Jerry Hadwin, Neil McAdie, Andy Scrase and I attempted the first ascent of P 6504, which is the western summit of Satopanth. Despite delays caused by heavy rains, we established Base Camp at Tapovan on August 31, Advance Base at Su...
The Club RoomsIn this issue we present for the first time two pictures of the rooms of the American Alpine Club at 140 East 46th Street, New York City, the main room, where Council meetings are held, and one of the library-stack rooms being shown....
Mount Drum, Wrangell Mountains. Our group consisting of Jim Bergdahl, J.R. Patee, Carl Tobin and me flew from Glennallen airport to a tiny landing strip on the Sanford River directly north of Mount Drum (12,010 feet) on August 25. We hiked up a sm...
Baird Mountains, 1992. During an archeological survey, I made a number of ascents in the Swatka, Delong and Baird Mountains, including the prominent limestone peak 11 miles up the Nakolik, whose north face comprises two pitches of class-5 rock.Den...
Forbidden Peak, Northeast Face. Taking advantage of a spell of fine weather late in the season, Stuart Ferguson and I left at six a.m. on September 15, following the Boston Mine trail to attempt the northeast face direct from the Boston Glacier. W...
K2, Various Activity. K2 (8611m), which had not seen an ascent since August, 1997, saw 25 climbers reaching the summit, the most since 1996. It was reported that all ascents were made via either the Abruzzi Ridge or South-Southeast Spur routes. Ni...
Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Southwest Ridge Ascents. Swiss Norbert Joos led an international group of six Swiss, a German and a Briton. They ascended the normal southwest ridge as follows: Swiss Diego Wellig, Hans Jörg Bumann and Martin Fischer on Oc...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FALL INTO MOAT Washington, Olympic MountainsOn July 10, 1988, after descending about 30 meters from the summit of The Brother, I stepped into a footstep made by my sons who were descending immediately ahead of ...