VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, MOSTLY CLIMBING UNROPED OR NOT ANCHOREDWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State Park and Peninsula State ParkReports from Devil’s Lake State Park provide an interesting contrast to the Shawangunks in that the average age of the climber...
Salcantay, Northeast Face Direct. Our expedition consisted of Theo Dowbenka, Rudolf Friedhuber, Martin Klein, Austrians, and Elmar Fries and I as leader, both Germans. We started from the village of Mollepata. Base Camp lay at 14,925 feet on the n...
Blodgett Canyon, Drip Buttress, McWonder Muffins, Previously Unreported. Eric Roberts and I climbed a new five-pitch aid route in October, 1999. McWonder Muffins (V 5.7 A3) ascends 200 feet east of the Drip Buttress Route on the south face and is ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDOregon, Mount HoodOn May 19, Carlos Loria (age unknown) was descending the Coe Glacier after making the summit. He slipped and fell 700 feet, fracturing his neck. He had been reported overdue by his brother....
Everest Attempts and Tragedy in the Post-Monsoon. In September, the monsoon continued till late in the month and brought large amounts of snow and great avalanche danger. At the beginning of October, it was as if someone had turned on the wind mac...
Locke Rock, Oktoberfest. This will probably be the prettiest face you see upstream from Leopold Dome. Viewed from Dusy Creek, the route Nicholas Boyd and I climbed is on the far left side of a formation one half-mile south of P 9963. (Grade II, 5....
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck. On July 29, Gary Clark (16) and two other Explorer Scouts had just completed the first of a four-day crosscountry trip. The area had numerous steep cliffs but always a good scramble route around them or up a wid...
Americans Alex Lowe and Conrad Anker had as their objective the unclimbed southeast pillar of Annapurna III, a 7555-meter peak to the east of Annapurna I. Since they planned to scale their challenging pillar in pure alpine style, they first did an...
Perdition Peak, North Ridge. From the distance, this appeared as a clean line, but close inspection revealed the northeast rib to be a better choice. On August 13 Steve Ollila and I discovered this as we descended from a low point on the northeast...
British Columbia, Coast Range, Tantalus Range, Mt. Niobe. Terry Stillman (20) a prospective member of the Alpine Club of Canada, was one of a party of 12 to glissade a steep but smooth and even snow slope on a small glacier. Elevation was about 5,...
FROSTBITEYukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount SteeleOn January 3, 1982, the Kluane Park Warden Office received a phone call from an airline company in Whitehorse which had been monitoring a Czechoslovakian climbing party on Mount Steele. They...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HATArizona, Oak Creek Overlook, GriffoOn September 28, a rock-climbing teacher died after falling more than 60 feet from a route called Griffo (5.6) at the Oak Creek Overlook on Highwa...
Mount Whitney Area. The cirque south of where Pinnacle Ridge hits the main crest contains many fine possibilities and has generally been overlooked by climbers. The following four routes were climbed by Scott Ayers and me over the last few years. ...
Keeler Needle, The Strassman Route. Yup. Eight days. Constant work, no rests. And that’s why I ran out of food and water. Not to mention that this was completely unknown terrain. I am not 20 years old anymore.What would motivate a 46 year-old guy ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount FryattIn the early morning of August 29, a party of four left their bivouac site in the Geraldine Lakes drainage to climb the southwest face of Mount Fryatt (3661 meters). The night had been clear a...
Sierra Nevada Section. We had an active year hosting climbing, social, and conservation events for AAC members and the climbing community. In February we hosted our second Ice Climb-munity based out of the off-the-grid Lost Trail Lodge in Coldstre...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Royal Flush. In February, 1999, Peter Janschek and I did the third ascent of Royal Flush on Fitz Roy. After fixing six pitches, we stayed three days on the wall. Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold, who put up Royal Flush, ended their rou...
Lhotse Shar. Our expedition was composed of Guy Donzey, Dr. Xavier Bigard, Pierre Royer, Lionel Mailly, Yves Tedeschi, Eric Gramond, Philippe Renard, Robert Flematti, Daniel Semblanet, French, Nima Norbu, Nepalese, and Rajeev Sharma, Indian. We cl...
Peaks Above Fenrisgletscher, Schweizerland, East Greenland. Elziro Molin, Gastone Lorenzini and I as leader were helicoptered from Tasiilaq on June 26 to a 1050-meter-high Base Camp in an unexplored region near the head of the Fenrisgletscher just...
Masherbrum. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Tateshi Sudo made the second ascent of Masherbrum (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) by the south face, the route first climbed by Americans in 1960. They established Base Camp on July 3. The unsuccessful ...