Accident Reports ANAM
North Carolina, Durham

North Carolina, Durham. On 23 November a party of climbers from the University of North Carolina were practicing rock climbing technique at an abandoned rock quarry about one mile south of Durham. George Huppert (20) and Joseph McSwain started to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Kohe Baba

Fuladi Valley. Led by Zbigniew Szarejko, the Geographical-Scientific Expedition of the University of Wroclaw was made up of J. Sacewicz, Z. Laczmanski, J. Pietruszka, J. Szarejko, E. Szymanski, Z. Kacuga, J. Klincewicz, W. Panejko and Dr. A. Chrus...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash

German Expedition to the Cordillera Huayhuash. An expedition of the Oberland Section of the German Alpine Club (DAV), led by Horst Wels, was dogged throughout by bad luck which finally ended in the tragic death of three of its members, Manfred Jor...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tilicho Attempt

Tilicho Attempt. A joint German-Swiss expedition attempted Tilicho in the pre-monsoon season via the north ridge from the east. The leader was Dr. Jörg Biel. They reached about 20,000 feet. Of only three climbing members, one got sick. The Sherpas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Royal Tower, North Face, and Other Climbs, Little Switzerland

Royal Tower, North Face, and Other Climbs, Little Switzerland. Bill McKenna and I spent nine days at the end of May in Little Switzerland on the Pica Glacier. We established a new route on the north face of the Royal Tower and did a few other hard...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Test Holds, Alberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSAlberta, Kananaskis Country, Mount John Laurie (Mount Yamnuska)A climber fell and broke his leg on June 5. The man was climbing a route called The Bowl (145 m. 5.10a) when he grabbed onto a chalk-covered handhold...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. In August, the Club sponsored its eleventh Western Outing. It was conducted in the Northern Cascade Range in Washington, with Base Camp situated a half mile east of Cascade Pass. The camp was attended by 66 participant...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Turnweather Glacier, Sangtraït

Turnweather Glacier, Sangtraït. When Frank Van Herreweghe (Belgian, but Catalonian citizen) and I arrived at Auyuittuq National Park, we felt really happy. After months waiting for this moment, finally we were in Baffin, ready to enjoy this unknow...


Book Reviews AAJ
Trail Country: Olympic National Park

Trail Country: Olympic National Park, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers, 1968. 298 pages, 24 photographs, 24 maps. Price: $6.95.Drawing on 20 years of research and study of the Olympic Peninsula, and 20 summers spent largely...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. Interest in The Mountaineer Climbing Course continued high during 1965, with 274 students in the Basic Course and 61 new enrollees in the Intermediate Course. A record 106 climbers graduated from the Basic Course, while 12 receiv...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental

Cordillera Real and Cordillera Occidental. My wife Ria and I were in the field from August 3 to September 14. We first climbed in the Cordillera Real from the valley of Río Palcoco and Laguna Khunu Kkota. Base Camp was at 4800 meters at the tongue...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C. Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. During the past year the Section lost two of its oldest members, Beatrice de Lacy and Fred Ayres, and gained ten new ones giving a current total of 51. At our regular dinner meetings we were entertained by Price Zimmermann’...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Kula Kangri, Third Ascent

Kula Kangri, Third Ascent. It was reported that a Spanish expedition made the third ascent of Kula Kangri (7554m) in May. Base camp was established on May 4; by May 15, a route that roughly followed the west ridge had been established to Camp II a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Vinson Massif

Vinson Massif. On November 27, Reinhold Messner, Wolfgang Tomaseth and I reached the highest point of Antarctica 26 hours after Giles Kershaw had landed us below the peak. The weather was wonderful and the climb, during which we slept at what is n...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chinchey

Chinchey. Our group consisted of Dennis Hegyi, E. Gregory Lee, Neil E. Paton, Timothy J. Ryan, Anthony W. Thompson, Joseph M. Weiss and me. We were international since Paton is from New Zealand and I am from the Netherlands, although the rest are ...


Club Activities AAJ
New York Section

Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. To celebrate the centenary of the Cambridge University Mountaineering Club, eight members planned an expedition to East Greenland during July. As our departure time from the U.K. approached, it became obvi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Ascent and Tragedy

Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Lluis Belvis was composed of 22 members, including a film crew, doctor and scientist. They hoped to climb the west ridge of Everest. Base Camp was established at 5320 meters on August...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rocks, Weather

FALLING ROCKS, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsRobert (51), Bob (21) and David (16) Frank signed out at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station on August 1, 1985, for a climb of the Skillet Glacier on Mt. Moran the following day. They left the String Lake trailhead ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta

Fitz Roy, Supercanaleta. Max Berger, Jérome Blanc-Gras, and I made a winter ascent of Supercanaleta on Fitz Roy on August 9. Ours was the third or fourth winter ascent, the first reported winter ascent having been made by Argentine climbers.Condit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988

Mount Dawson, North Face, Selkirk Range, 1988. Fred Beckey, Dave Pollari and I approached the Dawson group from Rogers Pass on August 2, 1988, crossing the Illecillewaet Icefield to the Glacier Circle Hut. After a day of rain, we climbed over the ...