FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, LATE STARTOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn July 27, Dr. Gary Lee (55), an experienced climber, and his son Devin (20) finished the ascent of the Sunshine route in the early afternoon. They descended by the Cooper Spur route...
Everest Solo Attempt. With my support team of Ruth DeCew, Ed Webster and Kristina Kearney, I arrived at Base Camp at 17,000 feet on July 1. Advance Base Camp was established on July 8 at 20,400 feet on the East Rongbuk Glacier. Between July 12 and...
Ice River Region, Canadian Rockies. While doing geological field work in the region of Ice River, near Golden, British Columbia, in August 1956, I made the following solo ascents: (1) Zinc Mountain, via the ridge leading from the Manganese-Zinc co...
Annapurna I Tragedy. A strong Italian expedition was composed of Guido Machetto, leader, AAC member Alessandro Gogna, Carmelo Di Pietri, Gianni Calgagno, Miller Rava, Leo Cerruti, Carlo Zonta, Rino Prina, Angelo Nerli, Lorenzo Pomodoro and Vasco T...
AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Odell GullyOn February 25, 1991, a spindrift avalanche swept Thomas Smith (41) to his death. He and his partner, James Huntsmen, were near the top of Odell Gully when the accident occurred. Smith was knock...
AAC, New England Section. Chris Dame and friends began 1999 by attaining the summit of Chile’s El Novado Juncal (6110m) for the first American ascent. In June, Dave and Debbie Duncanson topped out on Denali via the West Buttress.A1 Hospers and Yuk...
Gurla Mandhata (Naimona’nyi), 1987. The Sino-Japanese Joint Friendship Expedition had as its chief leader (A. A.C. honorary member) Shi Zhan Chun, as deputy leaders Chinese Liu Dayi and Japanese Atsuo Saito and as climbing leader Japanese Katsutos...
Library Circulating PrivilegesCirculating privileges in the Library are available to members who are non-residents of the vicinity of New York. All applications for loan of books must be addressed to the American Alpine Club, 140 East 46th Street,...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s Peak (2)—On October 2, Sidney Cohen (27) of Boulder, Colorado, was climbing Long’s Peak via the Cable route when he slipped on ice and fell down the 60-degree slab rock 150 feet, striking a ledge which...
Monument Basin, Various Ascents. With various partners, I was involved in the following ascents. Tutti-Frutti (two pitches, 5.10 C2), on the Pixie Stick (first ascent of tower), Monument Basin, with Paul Gagner, Donna Raupp, and Dave Goldstein. Th...
HAPE, CE, ASCENDING TOO FAST, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 31, 1993, the Denali ’93 Australian-Salzburg Expedition flew to the Southwest Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb of the West Buttress. The six person expedition w...
Kwangde Shar, north face, second ascent to the summit, Extra Blue Sky. During the autumn British climbers Jon Bracey and Owen Samuel made the second ascent of Extra Blue Sky to the summit of ca 6100m Kwangde Shar (fourth ascent to its junction wit...
Great Trango Tower and Nameless Tower. Our expedition was made up of Masanori Hoshina, Satoshi Kimoto, Masahiro Kosaka, Takaaki Sasakura, Yoshitaro Arisaka and me as leader. We stayed at our Base Camp or above from the end of June until the middle...
Overview. In 2009 there were 64 Indian and 37 foreign expeditions in the Indian Himalaya, the total of 101 being the largest in recent years. Many Indian expeditions visited peaks that have been climbed many times (Satopanth, Chhamser Kangri), and...
SLIP ON SNOW, NO HARD HATAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount HaddoAfter a successful ascent of Mt. Haddo (3071 meters) on September 16, a party of three were descending a gully system toward Paradise Valley from the Haddo-Aber- deen saddle, when the h...
K2, Swiss Attempt. A Swiss expedition consisting of Peter Schwitter, leader, Beat Ruppen, Norbert Huser, Rupert Ruckstuhl and Frenchwoman Chantai Mauduit made an attempt on the Abruzzi Ridge of K2 that ended at 7400 meters in late July due to bad ...
Siachen region, Laxmi, attempt by northwest face. A 10-member team from the Indian Navy attempted Laxmi (Lakshmi; 6,850m), a virgin peak on the Teram Shehr Glacier. Lt. Cdr. Amit Pande, who was deputy leader of the Navy’s Everest expedition in 200...
SLIP ON ROCK – BOULDER FIELDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon Boulder FieldOn July 22, in the early afternoon, I received a call from Exum Mountain Guide Trevor Deighton. He said that a member of his party had sustained an isolated...
Mamostong Kangri (7,516m), new approach and ascent. This Indian Army expedition with 30 strong members was led by Col. Ashok Abbey in October-November. Following a new approach route, they climbed the peak as autumn cold and snow was settling in. ...
Beatrice, Southeast Face. In last year’s volume (p. 327), the two 1997 British routes on Beatrice were reported. We now have the opportunity to show the lines of ascent (see photos, left and right).