Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Tanzania, Kilimanjaro

Kilimanjaro. Drew Sparn, age 11, reached the summit of Africa’s Mount Kilimanjaro and shares the title as the youngest person ever to reach that 19,340 foot summit. He summitted via the Machame route.Cameron Burns


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles

Grand Central Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. The entirely overhanging southeast face was climbed in two sessions of largely artificial climbing, which involved the use of pitons from knife-blades to giant wooden blocks. A few bolts were needed, and a...


Book Reviews AAJ
Volkserbe der Schweiz

Volkserbe der Schweiz. Six volumes in a series under this general title. Basel: Urs Graf Verlag, 1943-46. Price, $4.50 each.Each of these six volumes deals with a separate canton. They are finely illustrated and, though they are not of the same se...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Darrington Walls

Darrington Walls. Although the Washington Cascades are not exactly known for having an oversupply of good granite, it was not until two years ago that climbers became aware of the beautiful and challenging walls and outcrops along the waters of Sq...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, P c. 4000, Pangnirtung Fiord

P C. 4000, Pangnirtung Fiord. In August Brian Carey, Nancy Van Deren and I made the first ascent of a 4000-foot peak five miles south of Overlord Peak and two miles from the east shore of Pangnirtung Fiord. We climbed a snow-filled couloir on the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Illimani and Huayna Potosí

Illimani and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. On August 21 the Americans David and Leslie Kallgren and I climbed Illimani. On August 26 I soloed Huayna Potosí by the normal route.José Miguel Cuevas, Universidad de Madrid


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Peaks near the Freshfield Icefield

Peaks near the Freshfield Icefield. In August, I spent 16 days alone in the region just west and south of the Freshfield Icefield. Approaching from the east, I hiked for two days to Bush Pass, descended into the headwaters of the Valenciennes Rive...


Book Reviews AAJ
Tiquimani

Tiquimani, by Margaret Griffin. Stellenbosch, South Africa: Kosmo Publishers, 1965. 164 pages; 1 color frontispiece, 21 photographs and 2 sketch-maps on inside covers.This is the story of the first South African expedition to the Andes. Since in t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Western Canada, Mount Austerity, North Ridge, Nester Route, Selkirks

Mount Austerity, North Ridge, Nester Route, Selkirks. Earlyn Church’s obituary for Ed Nester in A.A.J., 1979 called the route he was attempting “elegant.” On July 30 Jules Bede and I completed the route Ed had conceived and attempted in 1968 (bad ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Half Dome, Direct North Face

Half Dome, Direct North Face. The 2000-foot north face of Half Dome was first climbed in June, 1957. As of December, 1963, the original route, circuitous but beautiful, has been ascended 10 times. Since the first ascent, climbers have wondered abo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Uruashraju, Northwest Face, Kashan Este, Northeast Face, and Other Peaks

Uruashraju, Northwest Face, Kashan Este, Northeast Face, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pete du Preez, Tim and Janet Hughes, Jonathan Levy, Michael Scott, Dr. Robin Sandell, Antonio da Cruz, Des Watkins, Mrs. Felicity Eggelston, m...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mt. Baker

FALL INTO CREVASSE Washington, Mt. BakerOn July 26, Paul Heraty (26) was crossing a small snow bridge that was also supporting a large rock when the bridge gave in and the rock landed on the victim’s left leg. He was two and a half miles up the st...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordlilera Blanca, Copa and Attempt on Huascarán

Copa and attempt on Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. From Base Camp at the lake below the southwest face of Copa (20,351 feet), Art Mears, Jerry Halpern, Robin Wilson, my wife Barbara and I moved up to our high camp at 17,000 feet on June 19. We all ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Haramosh II, First Ascent and Tragedy

Haramosh II, First Ascent and Tragedy. Our trip was run in as lightweight style as possible. The cost was initially estimated by a remarkably simple calculation: “Nunn’s Law,” which states that the net cost per head of any expedition is about “a t...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club found 1962 to be an active year, its twenty-third of operation since its founding in 1940. The club now has 368 Active and Expedition members who reside in 38 states and five foreign countries. In addition it has a larg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Alberta

Mount Alberta. Five climbers of the Old Boys’ Alpine Club of Nagano Prefecture High School, led by Mamoru Tajima, made the second Japanese ascent of Mount Alberta on July 29.Ichiro Yoshizawa, Japanese Alpine Club


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascades, Nooksack Tower

Washington, Cascades, Nooksack Tower. On July 21 Mike Kennedy and Roger Jackson (28) were approaching the Nooksack Tower. The approach requires the fording of the Nooksack River. The river is glacial melt, and swift, yet has a rocky irregular bott...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India-Garhwal, Ecological Impact on the Nanda Devi Area

Ecological Impact on the Nanda Devi Area. It appears that many expeditions that enter the Garhwal leave the campsites, both on the march in and on the mountains, in a mess. There is no reason why a campsite on the march in should not be left clean...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Kenya, Mt. Kenya, Various Ascents

Mt. Kenya, Various Ascents. In late February, Benny Bach and I spent a month on Mt. Kenya, making ascents of several of the bigger summits (Batian, Nelion, Point John, Point Lenana) by their standard routes, then climbing several obscure but excel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Hayes Range Ski Traverse

Hayes Range Ski Traverse. Mike Brown, Richard Cooper, David Williams and I made a ski traverse of the Hayes Range during the spring of 1986, climbing six minor peaks on the way. Leaving the George Parks Highway at mile 229 on March 29, we arrived ...