Paine Group. A Czechoslovakian expedition from the city of Ostrava, composed of Zdeneck Vlc, leader, Peter Baudis, Leos Korka, Pavel Klimza, Miro Rozehal, Vaclan Sagan, Jiri Tomcala, Jaromir Volny and Ludwick Zahoransky, and reinforced by four Chi...
K2, North Ridge. The Japanese Mountaineering Association led by Isao Shinkai and Masatsugu Konishi was composed of 14 climbers and 29 Japanese support people, since no high-altitude local porters were available. “Base Home” was established on May ...
Punta Numa, So Long Fox. An Italian pair opened an impressive route on the Punta Numa (baptized by Eloy Callado and Cesar Pedrochi after they made the first ascent on August 19,1997). Roberto Iannilli and Luciano Mastracci climbed a line to the ri...
Ishinca and Urus. A light Italian expedition was composed of Santino Calegari, leader, Carlo Nembrini, Graziano Bianchi, Andrea Facchetti and Giuliana Pergo. On August 11, along with the Peruvian Emilio Angeles, all five climbed Ishinca (18,143 fe...
Avalanche film produced by U.S. Forest Service. This movie, entitled “Avalanches to Order,” has recently been completed in little Cottonwood Canyon in the Wasatch National Forest, Utah. The narration is by Lowell Thomas and is directed toward the ...
RAPPEL ERROR-ANCHOR FAILEDColorado, Boulder Canyon, BoulderadoOn June 3 at 1635, the Boulder County Sheriff’s Office was advised of a fallen climber in Boulder Canyon. Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Pride- mark Ambulance, Nederland Fire Department, ...
Manaslu, Northeast Face (Normal Route). We were leader Hans Eitel, Peter Wömer, Germans, and Marcel Rüedi, Werner Burgener, Norbert Joos, Dr. Vinzenze Ullmann and I, Swiss. After a 12-day approach, we got to Base Camp at 3600 meters on March 28. W...
Copper Mountain. The highest (7840 feet) and most southerly peak of the Liberty Bell—Early Winters Spires ridge system, this pleasant but obscure peak may be approached via a cross-country scramble from the North Cross State Highway. From Kangaroo...
“Four O’Clock Rock," 1991. In June of 1991, we did a route on the rock buttress north of the north buttress of Three O’Clock Rock, for which we suggest the name, “Four O’Clock Rock.” We reached it via the Square Creek Pass Trail. The route begins ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Bugaboo Mountains, Bugaboo SpireOn September 13, 1989, while crossing the Crescent Glacier after climbing the Kain Route on Bugaboo Sprie, John Ulricson (45) fell ten meters onto a snow bridge ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR COMMUNICATION, INADEQUATE MEDICAL TRAININGCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAt 0330 on May 15, Matt Christensen (26) and Tony McClane (20) climbed fixed lines to Sickle Ledge on El Capitan and started...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Kitty Calhoun and I started up the north face of Thalay Sagar on September 18 with seven days’ food, one rope and a portaledge. We hoped to climb the face’s central couloir. Climbing on the lower apron was slowed by thin 60° ...
Mir Samir. The Ulster Afghanistan Expedition made two new routes on Mir Samir (19,059 feet). Mick Curran, Trevor Mitten and I climbed the southwest couloir in July, 1971, with one bivouac on the way up and one on the descent. Although nowhere undu...
Huntington, Winter Attempt. On February 14, 1994, Dr. Robert O’Brien and I planned to be flown to the branch of the Tokositna Glacier beneath Huntington’s west face to attempt a winter ascent of the Nettle-Quirk route. During the fly-in, the pilot...
On May 26, solo climber Luc Benoit (40) sustained an un-roped fall of approximately 1000 feet down the West Rib. The next day Ranger Tucker Chenoweth flew with pilot Andy Hermansky in the contract A-star B3 helicopter 3AE to the scene and picked...
Gasherbrum II Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was not the only one to experience tragedy in the Gasherbrum group. A Mexican climber succumbed to pulmonary edema on Hidden Peak and a French monoskier fell 1200 meters to his death on Gasherbrum ...
Ogre’s Thumb, new route. Italians, Matteo Castelnuovo, Guiseppe Lafranconi, Alberto Marazzi, Simone Pedeferri, and Marco Vago, put up a new route on the South Face of the Ogre’s Thumb (ca 5500m). Ragni sul Filo (700 meters) has 18 pitches with dif...
South Col, One Man’s Adventure on the Ascent of Everest, 1953, by Wilfred Noyce. 303 pages, 5 maps, 4 colored plates, 71 photographs, and 16 drawings. Melbourne, London, Toronto: William Heineman Ltd., 1954.In this interesting and well written boo...
Kangbachen Attempt. A post-monsoon expedition of Rikko University, Japan, was led by Yoshikuno Sakai and Takeo Yamanoi. They attempted the northwest face from the Ramtang Glacier. After continuous snowfall for 60 hours, the route beyond Camp IV (2...
Bandar Punch II. An Indian expedition got to Base Camp from the roadhead at Sukhi and moved over the Sukhi Top and Khagi Pass to establish Base Camp on June 1. Camps I and II were at 18,000 and 19,500 feet, the latter on the upper snowfield of Ban...