SLIP ON SNOW/ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 19,1985, the 13-member German guided party, led by a guide named Zeheleitner, began their ascent of the West Buttress of Mt. McKinle...
Latok III. The following were members of the Latok III expedition: Kazushige Takami, Sakae Mori, Kiyukaza Kitamura, Keiso Sadatomo, Naoki Ohudaira and I as leader. We climbed the mountain from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier via the southwest ridge, wh...
Broad Peak, West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Paul Briggs, Steve Strain, Bob McIntosh and me as leader, but McIntosh injured his knee near the tongue of the Baltoro Glacier and had to leave the expedition. We arrived in Skardu on J...
Mount Helen, North Face, Tower 1 Ice Gully, Wind River Range. On August 26 Bill Lindberg and I ascended the gully on the north face which reaches the notch between Towers 1 and 2 on the 1946 Kraus route. The ice here is not as steep as it appears ...
Eastpost Peak. First ascent, August 16th, 1938. E. Cromwell, F. S. North. This summit is unnamed on Thorington map, but was christened in relation to Northpost Spire. It can be seen from the Bugaboo Valley floor. To breakfast place on Crescent Gla...
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount IshbelOn October 5, 1987, a party of two climbed the finger on Mount Ishbel. On the descent, one of the climbers tripped on an untied shoelace, causing him to tumble down steep Class 4 terrain, severely ...
Baruntse Attempt. A seven-member South Korean expedition led by Kim Byung-Joon hoped to complete a route up the west face and along the north ridge of Baruntse. A team from the Netherlands climbed this route as far as the north summit in 1983. The...
Wild Snow: A Historical Guide to North American Ski Mountaineering. Louis W. Dawson. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 214 black-and-white photographs, ten maps. 292 pages. $40.00.Lou Dawson values nothing more than a stimulating ski descent from a...
Mt. McKinley. A July report from Alaska tells of an apparently unsuccessful 1948 attempt to climb Mt. McKinley, and further attention to this mountain is shown in letters from the leader of a projected French expedition.In addition, Bradford Washb...
Cho Oyu, Southwest Buttress. A noteworthy accomplishment was a new route on Cho Oyu climbed by Polish climbers from Zakopane led by Ryszard Gajewski. Base Camp was established on April 5 at 5300 meters. They hoped to prepare the Messner variation ...
ALEXANDER HARVEY BRIGHT1897-1980Alexander H. Bright, who died on November 17, became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1926 after a summer of climbing in the Alps. He continued to make frequent visits to the mountains, but as a skier rather ...
Kangtokla, First Official Ascent. Kangtokla (6294m) was one of the ten peaks opened to foreign expeditions in 1998. Miguel Angel Videl led a four-member Spanish team that made the first official ascent of the peak via the southeast ridge. The summ...
Churen Himal East Ascent and Tragedy. A seven-man Korean expedition was led by Chi Hoon-Ku. They established Base Camp at 4750 meters on March 26 and began climbing the southeast face. On April 11, Kwon Dai-Shik fell 90 meters into a crevasse and ...
Mt. Ararat, northeast rib/face. On July 27, a group of climbers from five countries made an ascent of the northeast flank of Mt. Ararat (16,940') near the borders of Armenia and Iran in northeast Turkey. The team was comprised of Marcelo Buraglia ...
Noshaq, Rakhe Deras, Karposhte Yakhi. Noshaq (24,580 feet) was climbed from the northwest by Fräulein Cilly Hayder (21) and Oswald Steinlechner (19) and later by me solo. Robert Oberarzbacher (19) and I climbed Rakhe Deras (18,668 feet) and Fräule...
SouthGeorgia, Summary of More Important Ascents. In Freeman-Attwood’s excellent full report, a selected history of expeditions is given. Most will recall Captain Cook’s landing in 1775 and Shackleton’s crossing in 1916. The first mountaineering wa...
Great Trango Tower, North Face. After hiking up the Trango Glacier to below our original objective, the Uli Biaho Tower, and then watching rockfall continually hammering the only approach to the east face, we gave up without starting. Fortunately ...
Fenris, Orvin Fjella Mountains, first ascent. In December 2003 Mike Libecki and I were landed at an altitude of ca 1,200m close to Ulvetanna in the Orvin Fjella mountains of Dronning Maud Land. Base camp was established at 71° 51,264 S, 08° 22,552...
Huantsán, Attempt on East Ridge. An expedition led by J.P. Frésa- fond attempted the east ridge of Huantsán. Aside from the leader we were M. and M. Blassier, Y. Buttin, D. Ducoin, J. Erard, H. Frésafond, M.F. Gay, C. Jager, M. Pichot, U. Vollgart...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTESouth Dakota, Needles/Black HillsOn May 29, 1989, Cristina Cerrutti (31), Jim Bjork (29), Stephen Gillmore (30) and David McConnell (27) of Minnesota were climbing in the Ten Pins area. Cristina was leading Tricouni Nail (5....