Teton Range1During the 1936 season there were several important new climbs, most of them on the Grand Teton and resulting from the introduction of piton climbing for the first time on a considerable scale in the Tetons. The season undoubtedly reac...
Climbs in the Kobuk Valley, Arrigetch, Brooks Range. Bob Forbes, Rafael Gurvis*, John Lyon*, Petter Millar, Hope Yandell and I* decided that the Kobuk valley would be a suitable place to spend our energies. The Kobuk had been only superficially ex...
Brooks Range, Endicott Mountains. Working for the Park Service, Walt Rogers and I trekked on snowshoes this spring from the upper Negu across the entire Killik basin to Okomilaga and Chandler Lake. The significance of the Killik depression as a sn...
Mount Torment, North Ridge. Since the ridge traverse from Torment to Forbidden Peak in 1958 (A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 301-2.), I had been anxious to return to this magnificent, alpine northern cirque wall. Starting from the Boston Mine trail near C...
K2, Solo Ascent and Attempt. Yasushi Yamanoi and I came back to Japan from K2 on August 25. Voytek Kurtyka and Yasushi looked at the east face, but gave up because of bad weather. Voytek left soon after, as he was not interested in any other route...
Ama Dablam Winter Ascents. There were two expeditions on the normal southwest ridge of Ama Dablam during the winter climbing season. Warwick Baird, one of two Australians, paired up with members of the South Koreans in a climb to the summit on Dec...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY Washington, Cascade MountainsOn July 26, 1988, Petert Potterfield (38) was leading around a corner on U-Gap when he fell after making an off route move. He had a sling over a rock horn for protection. He went 20 to 3...
University of Washington Mountaineers: The Mountaineers climbed in many of the best climbing areas of this continent during the past summer. Several members took part in the King Peak-Yukon Expedition, 1952, which climbed King Peak and Mt. Augusta...
The Abominable Snowman, by Ralph Izzard. 250 pages, 26 photographs. New York: Doubleday & Co., 1955. Price $4.00.The Abominable Snowman (Yeti) has a warm place in my heart because of a story my son told me. Some years ago he and some Sherpa po...
Alaska Alpine Club. The 1960 climbing season began in February with a three-man party reaching the summit of Institute Peak (8000 feet) in the Alaska Range. In April, 20 people participated in a Castner Glacier trip, with eight climbers making the...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Leaning TowerOn July 5, 1992, I spoke with Brad Young (32) at the Yosemite Medical Clinic about a climbing accident that he and his climbing partner Doug Burton (age not noted) were involved in on the Leani...
P 6100, Choktoi Glacier. Spaniards Jon Lazcano and Javier Mugarra made the first ascent of a very difficult 6100-meters (29,013-foot) spire which rises above the Choktoi Glacier to the right of Baintha Brakk. They got to Base Camp on June 24. They...
Sickle Moon. A 26-man team from the Indian Army, led by Lieutenant Colonel D.N. Thanka, commandant of the High Altitude Warfare School, left Kishtwar on August 30. Havildar Major Tsering Norbu and Naik Nim Dorje climbed this virgin peak, Sickle Mo...
Cordillera Carabaya. Dr. G. H. Francis and Dr. Alan T. Charig of the British Museum of Natural History, London, arrived in Peru to investigate what had been reported as possibly the world’s largest deposit of nepheline syenite, a rare rock rich in...
New Mexico, Peñasco Springs—On May 20, 1956 a fatal accident occurred on a private party trip to Peñasco Springs, New Mexico. The party consisted of Charles M. Williams (24), Sherman Marsh (21), Robert Lee (31) and Isaac Winograd (25). The group h...
Pamir Alai. A French group led by Pierre Faivre was composed of talented young alpinists: Frédéric Gentet, Robin Givet and Zébulon Roche. They made some excellent new rock routes, particularly on P 4240 and P 3850. They gave up their attempt on Pi...
P 8233, Ruth Gorge and Other Peaks. Stacy Taniguchi, Grant Henke, Dick Wheaton and I had a successful two weeks on the Ruth Glacier. We made the first ascent of P 8233, which lies south of Mount Dickey and west of Glacier Point. We first climbed a...
Everest, 2004 summary. During spring 2003, in the 50th anniversary season of Everest’s first ascent, a record number of men and women had turned up to climb to its summit, and it was assumed that the numbers would decrease after that. Wrong assump...
BENJAMIN SAYRE COMSTOCK1859-1941Benjamin Sayre Comstock, the son of Lydia Sayre and George Wells Comstock, was born in New York City in 1859, in a house which stood at Broadway and 34th Street, the present site of Macy’s. Educated by tutors as a b...
Panbari Himal, first ascent. The unclimbed Panbari Himal, a remotely situated 6,905m snow peak, was only opened to foreign expeditions in 2002. The mountain lies immediately north of the Larkya La (5,135m), a relatively spectacular pass that forms...