Kangerdlugssuaq Mountains, first ascents. A British expedition comprising Carole Feldman, Peter Hawksworth, Cath Walton, and I made 11 first ascents in the region south of the Hutchinson Glacier. The landing site, logistically about as far as a Tw...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. A French expedition of Chamonix guides was led by Serge Koenig and composed of Denis Ducroz, Hervé Thivièrge, Alain Payot, Jean-Paul Chassagne, Marc Galy, Daniel Audibert and Jean-Paul Balmat. They had hoped to broadcas...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE, EQUIPMENT— BOOTS, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 30, 1985, two male employees (early 20s) from Jackson Lake Lodge were descending the snow fields below South Teton when one of them lost control o...
Cerro Fitz Roy, north face. During January Frenchmen Jerome Arpin, Sylvain Empereur, Yannick Ponson, and Lionel Pouzadoux climbed a new route on the north face of Fitz Roy. They spent a total of six days working on the route and fixed ropes to pit...
Eastpost Spire, West Face, Bugaboos, 1989. In the first week of August 1989, Dave Turner and I climbed a new route on the west face of Eastpost Spire. From a point just right of a plumbline from the summit, we ascended a full 5.6 to 5.8 pitch on p...
Around 120 people summited Mt. Vinson (4,892m), somewhat fewer than in recent years. Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) guide David Hamilton and friend Patrick Bird made the second ascent of Mt. Rutford (4,477m), probably the ninth high...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Virginia, Great FallsOn August 2, 1987, Sandy Welle (26) and Christopher Ireland (26) were preparing to descend a route called Cornice when the following happened, according to Ireland:I set up a t...
Kedarnath Dome and Bhagirathi II. Italian Renato Moro organized two successful commercial expeditions to the Gangotri region. In August Moro, F. Zurloni, P. Cappanetti, J. Summer and Henry Bizot climbed Kedarnath Dome (6830 meters, 22,408 feet). F...
New Jersey: Appalachian Mountains, Delaware Water Gap. On 20 October 1951 Mary Ann Weborg, 17, of Newark, New Jersey, accompanied five Union Junior College Students and an instructor on a geology field trip in this area. The students were all girl...
Peaks Above Darban Glacier. A six-man German expedition led by Eggert Keller was in the Darband Glacier region. On June 26 Peter Bienek climbed Q6 (20,475 feet) and M9 (20,538 feet) from the Camp I above the Darband Glacier. On July 4 Keller and B...
During November 2010 Fernando Daneri (Argentina) and Edgardo Liberman (Panamá, but resident in Buenos Aires) climbed a new route, A Contramano (1,300m, AD) on the east face. They had spotted the line during an evacuation of a corpse. They spent ...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, DROPPED ROPE California, Yosemite ValleyOn May 22, 1989, at 1046, dispatch received a call from an Awhanee bellman concerning cries for help from the Serenity Crack area.Ranger Korthius responded and found Dan M. Klein (3...
Chogolisa Traverse. From September 10 to 15 our expedition, Liam Elliot, Hamish Irvine, Ulric Jessop, Simon Lamb and I as leader, made the first complete traverse of Chogolisa’s twin summits (7665 meters or 25,148 feet; 7654 meters or 25,112 feet)...
La Montagne des Autres—Alpinisme en Pays Kurde, by Bernard Amy.Paris: Arthaud, 1972. 239 pages, 26 photos, 4 maps.In southeastern Turkey, close to the frontiers with Syria, Iraq and Iran, lies a fascinating range, the Cilo Dag, which rises to some...
Belgian second ascents, Spanish first ascent. An international team sailed aboard the yacht Euronav Belgica to visit the Peninsula for the 110th anniversary of the Belgian Antarctic Expedition 1897-99. Fittingly, one of the peaks they climbed this...
Meru North Peak (6450m), attempt. During September and October a three-member Japanese expedition led by Hiroyoshi Manome attempted the northeast face and the north pillar route. They established camps and reached 6050m. Falling stones and objecti...
Satopanth. Our expedition was organized by the Italian National Mountain Rescue Corps. Medical research was carried out by the University of Pisa. The members were Marcello Ambrogi, Roberto Bemucci, Dr. Alessandro Bian- chini, Paolo Cavallo, Massi...
North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent. In May, Kennan Harvey and I did the second ascent and first one-day ascent of the Free Nose of North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The weather was questionable, so ...
Pik Kommunizma, Pamirs. Four Polish climbers, M. Grochowski, A. Heinrich, R. Kowalewski and J. Rusiecki, made the first ascent of the 2300-foot high west face of Pik Kommunizma (24,548 feet) from August 6 to 9. This is the first route on this face...
Mont Blanc to Everest, by Gaston Rébuffat, with a preface by Wilfred Noyce. London: Thames and Hudson, 1956. 158 pages; 69 photogravures, including 8 in color. Price 35 s.This is the English edition of Rébuffat’s Du Mont Blanc á L’Himalaya transla...