AAC, Central Rockies Section. On February 14-17 the Fifth Annual Cody Ice Festival was held in the Shoshone River Valley southwest of Cody, Wyoming. CRS Chair Greg Sievers and AAC Board Member Charlie Mace were on hand to support the popular activ...
Makalu Attempt. Nine Austrian climbers led by Arthur Haid failed to climb the normal route. They reached Camp II at 23,000 feet on September 22. Then came a great storm with much snow and avalanching. After that, the winds defeated all further att...
On May 18, Rob Jones and his Super Cub deposited Fred Beckey, Ryan Hokanson, and I among the many other erratics on a small glacier in the Revelation Mountains, at the southwestern end of the Alaska Range. With good weather and perfect snow condit...
Cartensz Pyramid. On April 22, Glenn Porzak, Chris Pizzo, Chris Kopczynski, Gerry Roach, Dave Graber, Wayne Hutchens and I flew to Biak, an island off the mainland, and then to the town of Nabire on the north coast. A 1½-hour charter flight took u...
Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. Mr. M. P. Bridgland, formerly of the Dominion Land Survey of Canada and a member of our Club since 1903, has sent the editor a complete list of his many ascents, indicating changes in the guidebook...
Mount Sneffels, North Face, Winter Ascent. Kitty Calhoun and I climbed the north face of Mount Sneffels during a period of good weather in the second week of January. The approach was made up Blaine Basin. We ascended the eastern couloir of the no...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF NUTSWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn October 10, 1980, Jeffrey Gathman fell 25-30 feet to the bottom of east bluff when the protection he had placed pulled out. He was descending the cliff at the time. (Source: T. Mill...
RAPPEL ERROR – WEBBING ANCHOR NOT TIED, FALL ON ROCKNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOn October 14, Scott Ruit (29) fell about 80 feet to his death while attempting to rappel from Birdland. He set up an extended anchor using webbing, weighted...
First Ascents in the Romanzof Mountains, Eastern Brooks Range. The first climbing done by members of the IGY McCall Glacier Project was a 1700-foot scramble up the south slope of nearby “Mount MacVicar” on May 20, 1957 by the late Dr. Richard C. H...
Bublimotin (a.k.a. Lady's Finger), Southwest Face. Members Yasushi Yamanoi (leader), Daisaku Nakagaki, and Taeko Nagao arrived at the foot of southwest face on August 12, 1995, with great baggage, after a long and dangerous approach. We started to...
The Season in Kluane National Park. There were 87 people in the St. Elias Mountains in 1985 who spent a total of 1639 nights. This was a quiet summer. Aside from climbs noted elsewhere, there were two groups that climbed Mount Logan by the King Tr...
Schweizerland Mountains, Various Activity. A seven-member team was flown to the Tasiilaq Mountain Hut (built in 1996 and run by Hans Christian Florian) in the Schweizerland mountain region of east Greenland by helicopter in March. The three-week e...
Colorado, South Maroon Peak. On 15 August, Frank Pretzel (44), Herbert Ungnade (54), Robert Day (42), and William Martin (22), set out from camp to climb South Maroon Peak (14,158) near Aspen, Colorado, by the west ridge. A fifth man, Donald McEac...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEOntario, Rattlesnake PointAbout noon on June 24, 1984, a climber (26) was leading Jeopardy, a 5.10 single- pitch rock climb at Rattlesnake Point, Ontario. He had placed protection about t...
Masherbrum Southwest, Ascent and Tragedy. Masherbrum is a difficult mountain with two nearly equal summits. The main summit (7821 meters, 25,660 feet) has been climbed only once, by William Unsoeld, George Bell, Nicholas Clinch and Jawed Akhter in...
Sous l'oeil des choucas … ou les plaisirs de l' Alpinisme. Eighty plates bv Samivel, with foreword by Guido Rey. 4 to. Paris : Delagrave, 1933. Price Fr. 25.The pleasures of Alpinism depicted by Samivel, with a foreword by Guido Rey, makes a book ...
La Esfinge, Little Fluffy Clouds, New Route. A large team of British climbers arrived in Peru at the start of July. On arrival at the Sphinx, my climbing partner, Neil Dyer, and I set about looking for a potential new free route that could be clim...
Baffin Island, Mt. Overlord, Overlorded. In the Weasel Valley on July 1, Chris Atkinson and I established Overlorded (1,800m, 30 pitches, TD+ 5.10-) to Overlord’s summit in 18 hours roundtrip. Although we did not see any evidence, the first half o...
Gangapurna Attempt. Four Austrians led by Reinhold Amann failed in the pre-monsoon period to climb the east ridge of Gangapurna (7455 meters, 24,458 feet), which they hoped to reach from the south. They originally hoped to climb the west ridge but...
AAC, New England Section. Un success fou! AAC New Englanders flocked to a hilltop in Weston, Massachusetts, on March 30, 1996, to fill our 70place capacity. The sound of conversation, punctuated with laughter, greetings and introductions, rose ste...