Peaks Between the Kahiltna Glacier and Spink Lake. From the Kahiltna Glacier, Roger Robinson and I traversed over to the Granite Creek Glacier to explore its upper regions and then continue east. We climbed P 5610 on our way over to the Kanikula G...
Everest, north face, new route. Elizabeth Hawley’s account of the Russian new route on the north face of Everest, along with commentary from Yuri Koshelenko, a team member, is in the Tibet section of this AAJ.
ASAHEL CURTIS1874-1941Asahel Curtis was one of the small but devoted group of outdoor idealists who founded the Seattle Mountaineers. He led their first three summer outings, creating a climbing technique through which a few skilled climbers could...
Pt. 6,190m and Pt. ca 5,754m, first ascents. Two members of the Kumamoto section of the Japanese Alpine Club, Koichi Kato and Makiji Kiso, made a reconnaissance of Yakawa Kang (6,482m), the peak immediately north of the Thorang La and first offici...
Mount Kilimanjaro, Hein Glacier, Snowboard Attempt. Wade McKoy and I climbed to 17,000 feet on the Hein Glacier route, which proved much steeper and icier than the photos in the guide showed. We lost a lot of time by belaying most of the route and...
Snow Creek Wall, Orbit Route. A second route on the southern half of this slabby 900-foot granite wall was completed in early November after a series of previous attempts had been frustrated by short daylight and early-season snowfall. The route, ...
Glarnerland, by Hans Trümpy. 135 pages, 80 full-page photographic illustrations by Walter Läubli. Glarus: Verlag Tschudi. Price, $6.25.The Canton of Glarus, known for its splendid peak, the Tödi, lies east of the St. Gotthard road. Its main valley...
White Chuck Mountain, East Face. On September 10 Ben Guydelkon and I climbed the east face via the narrow couloir that splits the face from right to left. Ten leads of about 140 feet each got us to the summit ridge and two minutes later we stood o...
Consolation Peak and P 5500, Pangnirtung Pass Area. In early May, Dave Shoemaker, Rick West, John Mallery and I spent nine days climbing in the Pangnirtung Pass region of Auyuittuq National Park. Travel into the pass from Pangnirtung was made by s...
Illimani, North Ridge and Tiquimani, West Ridge, Cordillera Real. Phillip Stuart Dawson and I climbed the north ridge of Illimani in five days (from September 20 to 24, 1976) of atrocious weather. We have since discovered that Italians made the as...
Mount Woolley, South Face. After hair-raising experiences on the road, Karl Gerdes, Rob Boyd, Chris Jones, Jim Sedinger, Tom Kemp and I crossed the cold and swift waters of the Sunwapta River bound for Mount Alberta. Woolley shoulder is something ...
Mostly Mischief, by H. W. Tilman. London: Hollis & Carter Ltd., 1966. 191 pages, 16 pages of photographs, 5 maps. Price: 30s.Four voyages by H. W. Tilman are chronicled and as the title suggests, three of them were made aboard Mischief, his "r...
Mount Manzo Nagano, Coast Range. On July 25, Bob Drescher and I had the distinct pleasure of accompanying David, Jim and Steve Nagano on the first ascent of this fine mountain, recently named in honor of their great-grandfather, the first Japanese...
Lost Brother, Northwest Face. On the morning of June 10, after 3 days of climbing, Al MacDonald, Dave French, Gary Westernoff and I completed the first ascent of this spectacular 1200-foot face. On June 8, we reached a small but adequate bivouac l...
Puntancuerno. Our expedition was composed of Bernardo Davila, leader, Augusto Ortega, Jorge Pinatte, Ricardo Colonia, Alfonso Estremadoyro, Juan Miguel Alba and me. We placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the shores of Yuraccocha on August 14. We ma...
Kalanka, First Ascent, 1975. (Somehow this important first ascent escaped the notice of much of the Western mountaineering press.) The Kamiichi Hoso-Kai Expedition was led by Ikuo Tanabe and composed of Noriaki Ikeda, Tsuneo Kouma and Kazumasa Ino...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Sloan PeakMatthew Strominger (22) fell 1,000 feet to his death on Sloan Peak on July 15. He and his two partners were only a few hundred feet from the summit of the 7,835-foot peak.Strominger was part of a...
Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. The Chileans Mario Puig del Río and Claudio Lucero Martínez reached the summit of Huascarán on August 5, having climbed the normal route.Urus Este and Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca. We made two ascents of Urus Este (17...
Nanga Parbat, Various Attempts. Three Italians led by Oscar Piazza failed at 6800 meters on the Kinshofer Route. Three Canadians (who got their permit from Americans who had canceled their expedition) are reported to have failed on the Kinshofer R...
Idaho Alpine Club. Founded in 1960, the Idaho Alpine Club has now completed its second year of existence. Our membership stands at 51, with members mainly from the Idaho Falls area. The club has joined the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs. Acti...