Nevado Yerupaja Grande. Equadorian Santiago Quintero climbed the west face of NevadoYerupaja Grande (6634m). The main summit of Yerupaja had gone many years without an ascent until Santiago climbed it solo on July 4. The ascent and descent took hi...
The Second Northwest Mountaineering Conference. Dedicated in large measure to the problem of mountain safety, and to search and rescue technique, the conference was held at Snoqualmie Pass in the State of Washington on 4-5 June 1949. The Washingto...
East Africa. The Iowa Mountaineers sponsored an expedition to East Africa in July and August. Thirty experienced climbers from ten states and two foreign countries participated (including five A AC members). In the Ruwenzori range in Uganda four m...
Pumori. Our expedition was composed of teacher-guides in the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme at Chamonix: Yves Pollet-Villard, leader; Pierre Blanc, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot, Raymond Renaud and me as deputy-leader. From Kathm...
Manaslu from the South. Our climbing party was composed of Janusz Kulis, leader, Aleksander Lwow, Krzysztof Pankiewicz, Ludwik Wilczynski and me, Poles, and Andreas Müller, Swiss. We set up Base Camp on September 13 at 4250 meters on the moraine o...
Cordillera Apolobamba, various ascents. In July and August we did some climbs in a remote area of the Peruvian Apolobamba along the Peru-Bolivia border. Few climbers have visited this area. In 2004 Peter Butzhammer, Benjamin Reuter, Dr. Stepfan Fu...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Mount Rainier, Emmons/Winthrop Glacier RouteOn June 3, Doug Thiel (40) and his two climbing partners summited Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier Route. ...
Razer Valley. The Kyushu Dental University expedition was composed of the leader Seishiro and five others. Starting from Kabul on July 1, they got to Base Camp in the Razer valley on the 12th. P 5523 (18,121 feet) and P 5623 (18,449 feet) were cli...
RICHARD C. HOUSTON1922-1982A phrase used by Dick Houston over his many years climbing and trekking points to the essence of the man. It would be under adverse conditions—say, three-fog-bound in a two-man mountain tent with hostile elements closing...
The Bugaboo Howser Watershed, Purcell RangeJ. Monroe ThoringtonACROSS the Columbia River at Spillimacheen, above a line of slender, waving poplars, rises the range of mountains within the forks of the Salmon, all powdered with fresh snow, Mt. Ethe...
Number ofTotalAccidentsPersonsReportedInvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSACANUSACANUSA CANUSA CAN19511522113195231351713195324271212195431413181955343928619564672541319574553281819583239231119594225623101921960474641237819419614996114451014419627119016401...
Shipton SpireFree as can be in the Pakistan Karakoramby Steph DavisThe glacier below is so gothically crenulated and gnarled it makes my brain hurt. It’s like a wedding cake that got dropped on the floor. A friend told me that this part of the wor...
Api. The veteran 71-year-old climber, Piero Ghiglione organized a very small Italian expedition which climbed Api (23,399 feet) in northwestern Nepal. However, the expedition ended in tragedy. After the four climbers had established their base cam...
Richard Spillett and I left the Falkland Islands in mid-November aboard Skip Novak’s vessel Pelagic Australis, which was to deliver us to the snout of the Nordenskjold Glacier. We hoped to attempt the first complete ascent of Mt Nordenskjo...
Second Ascent of Mount BryceLillian GestMT. BRYCE, 11,507 ft., overlooks the Columbia Icefield fromthe S., but had been climbed only once. From Rice Brook on the British Columbia side, it promised to be a fine snow and ice climb; from there also, ...
GEORGE H. RILEY 1912-1972George Riley died in Philadelphia on April 22, 1972, at the age of 60. He was born on his parents’ farm near Newtown, Bucks Co., in 1912, graduated from Richboro High School and took courses at the Palmer Business School. ...
Tsaranoro Atsimo, new route in 2004. The Tsaranoro Massif is now well known and attracts climbers from all over the world, because of its beautiful summits and walls of excellent compact granite. An hour on a jeep from the last village of Ambalava...
Manaslu Attempt. Under the leadership of Jaime García Orts, a 12-man Spanish expedition made an attempt on Manaslu by the Japanese first-ascent route of 1956 on the east. The first post-monsoon expedition to Manaslu was given up on October 13 afte...
FALL ON ROCK, ROCK and MUD SLIDESColorado, Crestone NeedleDuane (57) and Linda Buhrmester (56), both experienced climbers, walked in from the trailhead to Upper Colony Lake on July 26 in the mid afternoon. They camped there for the night with the ...
Atomfjella Mountains, new German-Swiss routes. I first took note of Svalbard, as Spitzbergen is called in Norwegian, in 1999 when reading an expedition report about mountaineering in Atomfjella. Spitzbergen lies a mere 1,500km from the North Pole ...