Trango Towers, South Face of the Chateau. Erik Decamp, Robert Wainer and I made the ascent of the south face of the first Trango Tower (also called the Chateau), a climb of 4000 vertical feet and 50 rope-lengths of which 30 were above UIAA Grade V...
Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections. AAJ correspondent Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, a noted Cordillera Blanca climbing researcher, sent the following notes regarding reports in the 2002 AAJ. In writing us with these corrections and clari...
Mt. Donguz-Orun, North Face, Descent by Ski and Snowboard. Mt. Donguz-Orun (“Mountain over the Lake of Pigs,” 4468m), a spectacular massif southeast of Mt. Elbrus and with the Nakra-Tau (Cut Peak, 4431m) summit to the west, is covered with glacier...
Shahan Dok Attempt, Hindu Raj. Saburo Hiroshima, Makoto Nebuka, Fumio Okitsu, Masatoshi Sato, Mitsutaka Kudo and I as leader got to Base Camp at Horgojit at 4000 meters on July 22. We had hoped to climb Shahan Dok (6320 meters, 20,735 feet) via th...
Jannu. In September and October of 1957 Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, and Pierre Leroux made a quick reconnaissance of three sides of Jannu (25,294 feet), following Yalung, Yamatari, and Jannu glaciers to their sources. They do not report any obvio...
Annapurna Attempt. Three Austrians led by Peter Wörgötter failed at 5800 meters on May 4 to climb the north side of Annapurna.Elizabeth Hawley
Sarapo, Southwest Ridge, 1974. The members of our expedition to Sarapo were Giovanni Albertelli, Italo Bazzani, Pietro Favalli, Erminio Guerrini, Alfredo Rocca, Guido Rocco, Francesco Veclani, Franco Aliprandi and I as leader. From Cajatambo we cr...
Abi Gamin, Women’s Expedition. The 19-member, all-women, pre-Everest expedition was led by Bachendri Pal and Rita Marwah. Fourteen women left camp at 21,000 feet for Kamet, but on September 13, they were beaten back by a blizzard only 100 feet fro...
Winter Climbing, Colorado Rockies. Despite the mild winter season of 1975/6, little was achieved. On December 21, 1975 Brad Johnson and Dick Jackson made the first winter ascent of Hallet’s Chimney on Hallet’s Peak. Mild conditions enabled the cli...
P 5500 (“Hendricks Peak”), Brooks Range. On August 14 I made the first ascent of P 5500 at 68° 49´ 15? N. and 145° 46´ 45? W. I traversed the entire ridge connecting the southwest, north and east summits. The mountain stands two miles northeast of...
A Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University was active on this island between December 26, 1965 and March 2. The party, which was mainly interested in the geology and botany of Tierra del Fuego, was led by T. Tujii and composed of S. Amma, T. N...
Castleton Tower, North Chimney. Castleton Tower, 20 miles east of Moab in Castle Valley, was first climbed by Layton Kor in 1962 up its southeast side. On the north side the natural break that splits the rock starts out as two narrow cracks in the...
Rasac, West Face and Tsacra Chico, South Face. On August 7 Giorgio Brianzi, Lino Tagliabue, Sante Armuzzi, Giampietro Volpi, Giulip Beggio and Massimo Leoni reached the summit of Rasac (19,817 feet). They had spent four days making an alpine-style...
Tirokwa, West Face. It was reported that a group of Italians from the Bregaglia area—Adriano Carnati, Luca Cattaneo, Danilo Galbaiati, Massimo Mazzucco and Pietro Piccinelli—climbed a new 500-meter line (VII+ A0) on Tirokwa above Windy Lake in Auy...
Mrigthuni. This peak was climbed by two members of the ladies team from Giri Doot and two Sherpas.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Jirishanca, South Face. Our group, consisting of Matt Kerns, Tom Hargis, Gwen Hall, Hal Tompkins, Brian Cox and me, set up camp at Jahuacocha on June 14. We placed a higher camp at 16,500 feet on the Rasac ridge close to the Yerupajá Glacier. On J...
Grave Lake Dome, South Face. On August 29 Faith Aubin and I made what we believe to be the first ascent of a prominent right-leaning diagonal crack at the western edge of the south face of Grave Lake Dome (10,818 feet). The route begins at an obvi...
Alaska: Mt. Juneau. On 14 May 1948 Ralph E. Mott, a sailor on shore leave, without adequate training or equipment, became separated from his five companions on Mt. Juneau and, descending alone, apparently slipped. He perished on the upper snow slo...
Mama Told Me Not To Come, Voodoo Dome, The Needles. In October, Steve Brower and I climbed this “indirect-direct” start to the White Punks on Dope route. Starting left of the normal start, several bolts protect difficult moves leading to a belay a...
Job. Ben Read and I become well-acquainted with the meaning of short autumn days as we were twice forced to retreat due to darkness from a partially overhanging open-book just below the Braille Book on Higher Cathedral Rock. This seven-pitch climb...