Feature Article AAJ
Franklin Spencer Spalding and the Ascent of the Grand Teton in 1898

Franklin Spencer Spalding and the Ascent of The Grand Teton in 1898Francis P. FarquharTHE climb of The Grand Teton in 1898 was an outstanding event in American mountaineering, regardless of whether or not it is considered to be the first ascent. I...


In Memoriam AAJ
Doug Coombs, 1957-2006

Edited by Cameron M. BurnsDoug Coombs 1957-2006Doug Coombs died last spring in a skiing accident in the French Alps while trying to aid a friend who had fallen over a cliff. He was 48 years old. Many writers and magazine editors will recall that D...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Ruth Gorge, Mt. Dickey, Northeast Face Ice

Mt. Dickey, northeast face ice.Flying into the Ruth Gorge, I caught sight of an obvious drip of ice on the northeast face of Mt. Dickey. On May 20 Christine Byrch and I left our camp below the Don Sheldon Mountain House in the Ruth Amphitheater.We...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Karyolung

Karyolung. A joint Nepalese Police-Japanese expedition was led by Yoshiyuki Inoue and Yogendra Thapa. After a brief try at the west ridge, they climbed the northeast face, where they placed two camps. On October 31 Inoue, Hiroshi Nishi, Masatoshi ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bakhor Das Attempt

Bakhor Das Attempt. After the usual problems and waiting, the British Women’s Karakoram Expedition at last got to the roadhead on the Braldu River and in three and a half days was at Askole. We were Brede Arkless, Ann Reman, Marion Winteringham an...


Feature Article AAJ
The Ascent of Glacier Peak 13-21 August 1905

The Ascent of Glacier Peak 13-21 August 1905Thomas Riggs[A letter from the Hon. Noel J. Ogilvie, International Boundary Commissioner for Canada, makes the best preface to this account of a climb by our late Honorary Member Governor Thomas Riggs, f...


Book Reviews AAJ
Brothers of the Snow

Brothers of the Snow, by Luis Trenker. Translated by F. H. Lyons. 16 plates, 247 pages. London: George Routledge & Sons, 1933. Price 10s. 6d.To those of us whose knowledge of the German language consists of but a meagre smattering of ‘Ski Heil...


Accident Tables ANAM
Results, Table IV

TABLE IVResultsState or ProvinceNumber of Persons LocatedNumber of Persons RescuedNumber of Bodies Recovered’63’64’63’64’63’64Arizona 8283*66British Columbia—7—4—1California 51104624912Colorado 4043223154Montana 3—2—0—New Hampshire—0—10—2Oregon ...


Club Activities AAJ
New York Section

Pt. 6,400', Dream of Eggs, and other activity. In June, Dave Hoven, Joel Irby, and I flew to the Ruth Gorge to attempt Ham and Eggs on the Moose’s Tooth. After spending numerous days in a snow cave, we attempted the route. We didn’t place a screw ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Bashkargolo Zom, Ishporili Gol, Hindu Raj

Bashkargolo Zom, Ishporili Gol, Hindu Raj. The Keio University expedition, made up of Takeshi Fuanki, Tetsuro Kubota and Mitsuru Yatabe left Chitral on July 17 and traveled through the Golen Gol, Koghozi and Sachiokuh village to place its first Ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A German expedition, led by Dr. Karl M. Herrlichkoffer and sponsored by the German Institute for Foreign Exploration, made a splendid reconnaissance of the 13,000-foot high Diamir (northwest) face of Nanga Parbat (26,660...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Rocky Mountains of Canada, Mt. des Poilus

Mt. des Poilus. Guidebook, page 113, for C. Kain read C. Klucker.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Cameroon, Zeuvu Tower, South Face, New Route

Zeuvu Tower, South Face, New Route. On December 3, our team met in Douala, the capital of Cameroon. We had come to climb in an obscure area called the Mandara Mountains that lay along Cameroon’s northern border with Nigeria. Our climbing team incl...


In Memoriam AAJ
Henry Lewis Stimson, 1867-1950

HENRY LEWIS STIMSON1867 -1950The public career of Henry Stimson is familiar. As a lawyer, U.S. District Attorney, unsuccessful candidate for the Governorship of New York, Secretary of War under Taft, Governor of the Philippines, Secretary of State...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, East Greenland

East Greenland. Our expedition, Derek Fordham, leader, Arthur Clarke, Dennis Kemp, David Morgan, Don Roscoe, Michael Tuson and I, planned to visit the Kristians Glacier region, east of Mount Forel, and continue exploration commenced by the British...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park

California, Yosemite National Park. On 11 August, Larry Gee (15) and Mike Montgomery (15), along with three other boys and two girls, of about the same age, started at 11:00 a.m. to climb the talus slope just south and west of Le Conte Memorial. A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, El Misti, Cordillera Volcánica and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca

El Misti, Cordillera Volcánica and Climbs in the Cordillera Blanca. Dick Birnie of Dartmouth College and I spent a productive month in the Arequipa area, visiting El Misti and Ubinas. Our first climb of Misti (19,166 feet; probably first climbed b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Blockhouse Tower

Blockhouse Tower. In the latter part of July 1949, having a couple of days to squander, Ralph Turman and I set out for the fine granite spires of the Cashmere Crags. To our surprise and regret, mosquitoes were out in very great force. Nevertheless...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Steven M. Cox, continues to address the related issues of access, conservation and growth management. Most significantly, in 1995 an optional conservation service requirement ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Robert C. Linck, 1905-1970

ROBERT C. LINCK 1905-1970The American Alpine Club has lost a devoted friend with the untimely death of Robert C. Linck on July 17, 1970, at the age of 64. He was born in Philadelphia on December 24, 1905, and graduated summa cum laude in engineeri...