Third Pillar, East Edge of Mount Dana Plateau, Tuolumne, 1990. In September, 1988, Miguel Carmona and Eric Klosterman climbed the first three pitches of this line on the pillar, which is drawn on page 47 of Reid and Falkenstein’s Rock Climbs of Tu...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING SOLO, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount WardleOn June 23, 1989, Ben (21) and his brother Uli (23) decided to make an attempt to climb Mount Wardle via the East Face. After completing a very d...

STRANDED – YOGI-PHOBIA, UNFAMILIAR WITH EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite, Half DomeJanet (32) spent May 9 hanging out at the base of Half Dome while her friends made an ascent of the Regular NW Face route. They had camped there the night before and h...

Shivling. A British Royal Air Force expedition made the second ascent of the southeast ridge of Shivling. The expedition, of which I was the leader, 22 strong and both climbers and trekkers, spent four weeks based on the Gangotri Glacier. The summ...

Koh-i-Parshui Attempt. On our approach to the central Hindu Kush this year, our roadhead was Barikot, giving us two extra days march per traverse up and down. The local languages are baffling even to our interpreter; Barikot is Pashtu, but higher ...

Bandarpunch II West and Kala Nag. The Ruinsara Youth Expedition was organized to train young climbers between the ages of 16 and 21 and expose them to high-altitude climbing. From the roadhead at Sankri we trekked through Dapsa and up the Ruinsara...

Hunter, Moonflower Buttress. Bill Belcourt and I made the fourth ascent to the summit of Mug Stumps’ Moonflower Buttress route on Mount Hunter. Starting on June 1, we spent five days on the ascent and two on the descent of the west ridge, all in g...

HAFE and HACE, ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAfter a rapid ascent to 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress, a member of the “Polish Female Denali 2010” expedition, Zygmunt Berdychowski (49), began experiencing signs and sy...

Gasherbrum II Ascent and Tragedy. The expedition in which I took part was a commercial one of 14 members organized by Frenchman Bernard Muller and his wife, Laurence de la Ferrière. We left Skardu on May 19 and got to Base Camp on May 31 at 5150 m...

Ogre III, first ascent. Thomas Huber, Urs Stöcker, and Iwan Wolf made the first ascent of Ogre III, the ca 6800m West Summit of Ogre II (6960m), now considered a distinct top. The Swiss-German team first inspected the approach on June 13, finding ...

Thor Peak, South Face, Odin’s Wrath. Odin’s Wrath (III-IV 5.10d) ascends a line between Satan’s Delight and Truncated Buttress on Thor Peak. The line can be very vaguely seen in the right margin of the photo on page 47 of R.J. Secor’s High Sierra ...

Our Everest Adventure, by Sir John Hunt. 128 pages, including 103 large photographs, numerous small photos, and 2 maps. English edition: Leicester, Brockhampton Press, 1954. Price, 12/6. American edition: New York, E. P. Dutton & Co., 1954. Pr...

Kanjeralwa, Kanjiroba Himal. Our expedition made the first ascent of Kanjeralwa (21,857 feet), which lies southeast of the highest peak in the Kanjiroba. Camps on the west side were established as follows: Base Camp at 12,150 feet on April 4, I at...

Pin Parbat. Six of the 11-member team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police climbed this virgin peak (6350 meters, 20,833 feet), which lies near Matri, on August 7. The summiters were S.P.Verma, Chhering Lobzong, Chhota Singh, Harnam Singh, Khom Sin...

Medicine For The Outdoors; A Guide to Emergency Medical Procedures and First Aid. Paul S. Auerbach. Little Brown, Boston, 1986. 345 pages, profusely illustrated with line drawings; glossary, bibliography. $12.95 (paper).This is a first-class paper...

Araca Group, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, 1990-1992. The rock in this climbers’ paradise is a firm red or gray granite, in places glacially polished. The climber will find much annoying lichen, which grows high on the peaks. In 1987, nearly all the pea...

Handbook of the Canadian Rockies. Ben Gadd. Corax Press, Jasper, 1986. 878 pages, black and white and color photographs, drawings, diagrams, maps. $25.00 (Canadian).What is a middle-aged climber to do when the pack is humbling the back and it is n...

Hunter Creek, Various Ascents. The winter of 1995-1996, with its initial snow drought and extremely cold temperatures, stimulated a modern Alaskan gold rush of new ice climbs in south-central Alaska. Areas that would have been high in avalanche da...

Altai Mountains. The ascent of Belukha (5,500 m.). the highest summit of the Altai, was first attempted before the Great War. A Soviet expedition in 1932 also failed to reach the top. In 1933 the highest or East Peak was reached by a large party c...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Disappointment Peak—Eric Mendelsohn (20) and Neil H. Drake (19) had completed an ascent of Disappointment Peak and were in the process of descending to Amphitheater Lake when Mendelsohn stepped onto a snowfield ...