Cho Oyu from the North in the Pre-Monsoon. As in other seasons, there were numerous ascents of Cho Oyu by the west side from the north. The well-known Mexican climber, Carlos Carsolio, made a whirlwind tour in the pre-monsoon season and did two fa...
Mount Tyndall, Direct East Face. In September Steve Brewer, David Wil son and I made the first ascent of this 1500-foot granite wall. Two earlier routes follow gully systems on either side of the sheer wall that begins in overhangs above a permane...
Washington, Olympic National Park, Mt. Olympus. On September 3, a group of climbers had reached the summit pyramid. There was light rain and fog. One rope team was starting up the summit ridge with another rope team moving on the snow along the ba...
Bear Mountain, North Buttress, First Free Ascent. On July 20 and 21, Lowell Skoog and I climbed the north buttress of Bear Mountain. We followed the original ascent route, with the exception of the chimney, which we bypassed on the right. In recen...
Maine — Mt. Katahdin. On 28 October Mrs. Mower and Mrs. Ivusic climbed Mt. Katahdin via the Cathedral Trail and arrived at Baxter Peak at about 1:30 P.M. They started down the knife edge trial. Mrs. Ivusic decided to take a short cut while Mrs. Mo...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY ANCHORArizona, Superior, Queen CreekI was climbing in Atlantis, Queen Creek, on a 5.10, which really has no belay spot directly below the climb, so my belayer set up on the other side of the creek bed, about seven me...
North Dome, Kings Canyon. During the weekend of July 4, 1986, Gary Hinton, Blaine Neely and I climbed a new route to the right of Dolphin Dreams. Freak Show is mostly free climbing with aid consisting of hooking, thin flakes and steep, flared crac...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Attempt. Americans John Catto and Pete Gallagher attempted to climb a new route between the Cassarotto and Devil’s Dihedral routes. Fixing ropes, they climbed nine pitches, but gave when they were confronted with continuous thin cr...
Trango Towers, South Face of the Chateau. Erik Decamp, Robert Wainer and I made the ascent of the south face of the first Trango Tower (also called the Chateau), a climb of 4000 vertical feet and 50 rope-lengths of which 30 were above UIAA Grade V...
Cordillera Blanca, clarifications and corrections. AAJ correspondent Antonio Gómez Bohórquez, a noted Cordillera Blanca climbing researcher, sent the following notes regarding reports in the 2002 AAJ. In writing us with these corrections and clari...
Mt. Donguz-Orun, North Face, Descent by Ski and Snowboard. Mt. Donguz-Orun (“Mountain over the Lake of Pigs,” 4468m), a spectacular massif southeast of Mt. Elbrus and with the Nakra-Tau (Cut Peak, 4431m) summit to the west, is covered with glacier...
Shahan Dok Attempt, Hindu Raj. Saburo Hiroshima, Makoto Nebuka, Fumio Okitsu, Masatoshi Sato, Mitsutaka Kudo and I as leader got to Base Camp at Horgojit at 4000 meters on July 22. We had hoped to climb Shahan Dok (6320 meters, 20,735 feet) via th...
Jannu. In September and October of 1957 Guido Magnone, Jean Bouvier, and Pierre Leroux made a quick reconnaissance of three sides of Jannu (25,294 feet), following Yalung, Yamatari, and Jannu glaciers to their sources. They do not report any obvio...
Annapurna Attempt. Three Austrians led by Peter Wörgötter failed at 5800 meters on May 4 to climb the north side of Annapurna.Elizabeth Hawley
Sarapo, Southwest Ridge, 1974. The members of our expedition to Sarapo were Giovanni Albertelli, Italo Bazzani, Pietro Favalli, Erminio Guerrini, Alfredo Rocca, Guido Rocco, Francesco Veclani, Franco Aliprandi and I as leader. From Cajatambo we cr...
Abi Gamin, Women’s Expedition. The 19-member, all-women, pre-Everest expedition was led by Bachendri Pal and Rita Marwah. Fourteen women left camp at 21,000 feet for Kamet, but on September 13, they were beaten back by a blizzard only 100 feet fro...
Winter Climbing, Colorado Rockies. Despite the mild winter season of 1975/6, little was achieved. On December 21, 1975 Brad Johnson and Dick Jackson made the first winter ascent of Hallet’s Chimney on Hallet’s Peak. Mild conditions enabled the cli...
P 5500 (“Hendricks Peak”), Brooks Range. On August 14 I made the first ascent of P 5500 at 68° 49´ 15? N. and 145° 46´ 45? W. I traversed the entire ridge connecting the southwest, north and east summits. The mountain stands two miles northeast of...
A Japanese expedition from Hokkaido University was active on this island between December 26, 1965 and March 2. The party, which was mainly interested in the geology and botany of Tierra del Fuego, was led by T. Tujii and composed of S. Amma, T. N...
Castleton Tower, North Chimney. Castleton Tower, 20 miles east of Moab in Castle Valley, was first climbed by Layton Kor in 1962 up its southeast side. On the north side the natural break that splits the rock starts out as two narrow cracks in the...