The Lure of the CanyonlandsJohn HarlinTo THE MODERN rock climber, the possibilities for ascending new routes seem to be diminishing rapidly. People have visited just about every scraggly crag—and to pluck a new gem often requires 1) intimate knowl...

AVALANCHEColorado, Little Bear Peak, Standard Hourglass RouteOn January 10 around 1100, a male (22) and his sister (20) were climbing Little Bear Peak via the Standard West Ridge Hourglass Route. Weather conditions for several days had been mostly...

ALBERT H. MacCARTHY1876-1956Albert H. MacCarthy, who died last October after an illness of more than a year, was one of the most rugged mountaineers of our time. At forty-eight and forty-nine he led the reconnaissance, winter freighting trip, and ...

The past year, 1953, with which this report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club deals was an average year when compared with previous years. The total number of accidents and deaths resulting from “mountaineering” activities which ...

The Mountains of IcelandHenry A. PerkinsIT was a combination of Jules Verne and hay fever that was responsible for my first trip to Iceland in the summer of 1900. Reading A Journey to the Center of the Earth as a boy had created an urge to see tha...

Ishinca and. Urus. The group I guided was prevented from doing higher climbs by unsafe snow conditions. We did make the following climbs: Ishinca Chico (17,142 feet) by Antoinette Thomasson, French; Fred Gredig, Robert Britschgi, Hugo Flüler, Erns...

FALL ON ICE, POOR POSITION, PLACED NO PROTECTION Alaska, Mount ForakerOn June 8, 1991, while descending an icy couloir on approach to the Infinite Spur on the south side of Mount Foraker, William McConachie (McC—39) fell and, unable to self-arrest...

A Life on the Edge: Memoirs of Everest and Beyond. Jim Whittaker. Seattle: Mountaineers Books. 24 color photos, 50 black-and-white photos. 272 pages. $24.95.The superb description by Jon Krakauer of the tragedy on Mt. Everest has increased the aud...

This is the forty-seventh issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the sixteenth that has been done jointly with the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: This year's data reflects a substantial increase in the ...

FROM JULY 13 to 20, Austrian Robert Schauer and I from Poland climbed the virgin west face of Gasherbrum IV to the top of the wall, though we did not get to the very summit. The descent was completed from July 20 to 23 via the north ridge. The 2,5...

Everest: The Ultimate Challenge 1922-1982. A stereo sound history of sixty years of struggle to climb the world’s highest mountain. Quarry Lane Productions, P.O. Box 1237, Alexandria, Ontario KOC 1AO $9.99 (U.S.) including postage.If one can cut t...

Texas Canyon, Lone Star. On November 10, Jon Butler, Jesse Harvey and I made the first ascent of Lone Star, a 460-foot tower located just 400 feet northwest of Texas Tower, in Texas Canyon. Jon and Jesse had fixed two pitches on a previous trip to...

East Karakoram, Argan Kangri (6,789 m), first or second ascent? The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an all ladies expedition to Argan Kangri in the Arganglas range east of the Nubra Valley. It was led by IMF Vice-President Rita Gombu Ma...

Trango II (6,327m), southwest ridge (Severance Ridge), not to summit. Trango II is the major snow-capped peak immediately north of Trango Tower and Trango Monk. Between August 15 and 19 Jonathon Clearwater (New Zealand), Samuel Johnson (U.S.), and...

GARY SILVER 1947-1988Gary Silver was bom in Oakland, Nebraska. He graduated from the University of Nebraska, at Lincoln, with a degree in civil engineering. During his college days, he visited the Colorado Rockies and developed a love for the moun...

Cat’s Ears, Epica Direct. In mid-August Cedar Wright and I realized a wild line that corkscrewed around the Cat’s Ears towers (ca 18,250'). We climbed in alpine style over two days from a high camp, with one nauseous, headachy shiver bivy 500' bel...

War Below Zero; The Battle for Greenland, by Bernt Balchen, Corey Ford and Oliver Lafarge, with a foreword by General H. H. Arnold, 8vo.; 127 pages, with 15 full pages of illustrations from photographs and an end-paper map. Boston: Houghton Miffli...

While sitting atop the summits of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in 1960, the late Bill Buckingham noted a particularly fine group of peaks 20 miles farther to the south. The central peak of this group is Mount Nirvana, which at 9,097 feet is the ...

TABLE III1951-921959-9219931993USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock30453549613Snow1879280316Ice1626958River12300Unknown22600Ascent or DescentAscent27593779018Descent1701257398Unknown242131Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1988186729Slip on snow or ice692138...

Denali on One LegMatthew KernsTALKEETNA’S MAIN STREET was awash with puddles of winter run-off when the Tripod Expedition arrived at the end of April. Our first stop was Doug Geeting’s office for a confirmation of our flight to Kahiltna Base. When...