Premier Group, Cariboo Mountains. Our party of six, Frances Chamberlin, Gertrude Smith, Dave Fisher, Wally Joyce, Gerry Neave and Roger Neave left Jasper on July 30, drove to Valemount, and then up the Canoe valley to the point where the logging r...

Mount Hunter, Attempt on South Face. (The author of this note was a recipient of a grant from the American Alpine Club’s Boyd N. Everett Jr. Climbing Fellowship Fund. — Editor.) Bill St. Lawrence, another companion and I attempted the south face o...

Pumori, Winter Ascent. A three-man South Korean expedition made the second winter ascent of Pumori via the south ridge. The expedition leader Nam Sun-Woo and Sherpa Lhakpa Gyalgen left Camp II at 21,150 feet, bivouacked at 22,300 feet and reached ...

A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section continued its liaison work with the National Park Service participating in conferences aimed at liberalizing the winter climbing rules for Mount Rainier and serving on an advisory board for approving winter asc...

Mount Tiedemann, South Ridge, 1983. During five days in August 1983, Jim Nelson and I climbed the previously unascended south ridge of Tiedemann. We started up the Tiedemann-Asperity couloir one afternoon, and climbed the broken glacier to a bivou...

Noghor Zorn, Pegish II, Kotgaz Glacier Region, Eastern Hindu Kush. The Yokohama Sanryokai expedition was led by Miki Yanagishima and further composed of Nobuo Saito, Miss Tsuneko Kobayashi and Miss Midori Noji. After leaving Chitral on July 3, the...

FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, OFF ROUTEWashington, Mount Rainier, InterglacierOn July 22, Thomas Porro (41) fell into a crevasse on the Interglacier. He was traveling with a partner, Mike Spillane, but they were not roped. Porro said he sa...

The Stanley Mitchell Hut in Little Yoho Valley is now open for use, and facilitates ascents in the President Range and on adjacent peaks. The location and uses of the hut are described in C. A. J. , xxvii, 73.

Rolf Larson and I bushwhacked up Swamp Creek on September 4, aiming for a new route on the northeast face of 8,444' Tower Mountain, whose shattered rock is notorious for turning back adventurers. Only one known route has been established on this...

Artesonraju, Cordillera Blanca, and Jatunhuma and Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On April 30 the Germans Werner Kabl and Horst Caha made the fourth ascent of Artesonraju, climbing the north ridge. Then they went to the Cordillera Vilcanota where...

Mount Kitchener, North Face. Bob Beall, Brian Greenwood, Rob Wood and George Homer made a Grade V new direct route on the north face of Mount Kitchener in August. There were 30 leads of roped climbing after 500 feet of unroped climbing at the bott...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR TECHNIQUENew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseOn June 28, Bayard Russel (26) and I (Rand McNally—48) were climbing Recompense (5.9). I was leading the first pitch and we were using a doublerope techni...

Central Andes. Four members of the mountain club of the Universidad de Chile placed a camp on the border pass of Piuquenes in early February. They made several ascents along the border ridge: Cerro Puente Alto (13,878 feet) February 8 by Carlos Ro...

Porong Ri, First Ascent and Tragedy. A 14-man Japanese expedition led by Torn Ito made the first ascent of Porong Ri (7294 meters, 23,898 feet), which is connected to Shishapangma by a ridge and lies some five miles to the northwest. Base Camp was...

Nevado Kayesh, Italian Route variation attempt. In June Guillermo Mejia and I set up a tent on the glacier, a half-hour from the bergschrund of Kayesh (5721m). We started up the German line, then followed the fixed Italian ropes (1973) until they ...

Vallunaraju, First Ascent of North Ridge. Beryl Howarth, Vicki Thompson, my wife Lucille and I set out on July 5 from camp in the Llaca valley and climbed along the base of the cliffs as they curved upwards, then broke out onto open moraine and ev...

Mt. Rainier climbers who break rules are fined. During a single week in August 1949, seven Oregon and Washington men were fined for attempting to scale Mt. Rainier without complying with all park regulations. One party, for example, was warned not...

FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Scenic JourneyOn May 17, Craig Smith (21) was leading the eighth pitch of the 13-pitch climb Scenic Journey (5.10+), when he wedged his hand into a crack in the rock face to gain a hold. The move...

Manaslu. A Yugoslavian expedition led by the late Aleš Kunaver had hoped to ascend the unclimbed south ridge of Manaslu, but instead they made the fourth ascent of the south face, first climbed by the Tiroleans in 1972. They established Base Camp ...

Forbidden Peak, Northwest Face. This very aesthetic alpine route combines a good short ice climb on the west face of the north ridge with the very enjoyable rock climbing of the upper north-ridge route. The ice face is composed of two sections div...