VARIOUS MEDICAL PROBLEMSAlaska, Mount McKinleyDuring the 2009 season, there were several medical incidents (including the HAPE report above). These included a guided client (41) with significant enough chest pain to be evacuated be helicopter; a g...
1947. The Lost ArrowAllen SteckWhen Anton Nelson and John Salathé reached the summit of the Lost Arrow via the Arrow Chimney, they had just completed the most demanding climb yet in the brief history of Yosemite climbing. The ascent took five and ...
Long Ago at ChamonixEaton CromwellIT all seems so far away and very long ago. Actually, it is twenty-five years since my mother, wishing to have company on a motor trip abroad, had me sent from school immediately the spring term closed to the Kron...
New Altitudes for Peaks Above the Southern Patagonian Icecap South of Fitz Roy or Chaltén. New and very accurate maps of this region at a scale of 1:100,000 have recently been released by the Instituto Geográfico Militar Argentino. The maps may be...
Koh-e-Baba Tangi (6,513m), attempt. In September an all-woman Italian team of Eloise Barbieri, Elisabetta Galli, Roberta Vittorangeli, and I as leader tried to climb Koh-e-Baba Tangi, at the head of the Kezget Valley in the upper Wakhan Darya. Our...
JOHN CLINTON FONDA 1932-1960On February 9, 1960, while on ski patrol in the northern part of Grand Teton National Park, John Fonda lost his life when his skis broke through the ice of the Snake River. Going to his aid, the two rangers with him als...
The Fortress, South-Southwest Face. Mike Pennings and I explored an area down around Mineral Bottom and climbed a free route on a tower that was narrowly separated from the rim. We did not know any history of this tower and found no evidence on to...
Changabang, west face; Purbi Dunagiri, south pillar and east ridge; three attempts. After three years of training and organization, the DAV-Expeditionskader '02 left Germany for India in mid September. Our goals were the first repetition of Changa...
After landing in Bishkek on August 19, Tom Nichols, James Moneypenny, and I reached the Mustyr Valley on the 22nd, well after the Edinburgh University Expedition had left for home. We made base camp by our vehicle, just below the grass line. We fi...
CB 13. A Japanese expedition with 11 climbers led by Isao Minami put two teams on the summit of CB 13 (6264 meters, 20,223 feet) via the north ridge. On August 3, Yoshichika Yamada, Yoshio Nakagawa and Hiroyuki Nakamori set out from 6000 meters an...
Wind Rivers, Southern Section. On August 28 William Plummer and I did a new route on the east ridge of Wolf’s Head from a camp at Lonesome Lake. The ridge begins at the col between “Tiger Tower and Wolf’s Head, which would most easily be reached b...
Gang Chua and Leo Pargial. On May 30 a party left the Indian Military Academy to climb Gang Chua and both summits of Leo Pargial. The party was led by me, assisted by Major V.K. Dwivedi, Major F.J. Bahadur and Captain G.L. Sachdev. There were ten ...
The North Face of Monolith PeakArthur GranYou have probably never heard of Monolith Peak in the Wind River Range. Well, neither had I until a year ago when John Hudson suggested it as a possible climbing objective for 1963. After some research and...
FALL ON STEEP SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWashington, North Cascades National Park, The TriadOn July 1st, Martin Cash (35) and Aaron Zabriskie (26) successfully climbed two of the three summits of a peak known as The Triad....
Uli Biaho Tower, north face; Hainabrakk East Tower and Shipton Spire, attempts. From July 21 to 23 Slovakians Gabo Cmárik and Jozef “Dodo” Kopold made the first ascent of the north face of the spectacular 6,109m Uli Biaho Tower. They climbed the 1...
FALL FROM RAPPEL, POSSIBLE MISCOMMUNICATION, NO HARD HAT New Hampshire, Cathedral LedgeOn February 1, 1992, John High (mid 30s) and his partner walked to the top of the north end of Cathedral Ledge and set up both a rappel anchor and a belay ancho...
DONALD HUBBARD1900-2000Donald Hubbard, whose achievements as a rock climber and alpinist spanned nearly half a century, died of cardiopulmonary arrest on July 20 in McLean, Virginia, less than three months before his 100th birthday.Hubbard did som...
Mt. Rainier, Fickle Finger of Success. From July 21 through July 25, Alex Van Steen and Richard Alpert led a Rainier Mountaineering party of four (David Branton, Mark Kelly, Steve Northern, and Pete Laird) to a summit camp via the westernmost coul...
Middle Cathedral Rock, Center Route on Northeast Face. In 1960 Yvon Chouinard and I ascended the central crack system on the northeast face of Middle Cathedral Rock, hoping to establish a direct route to the summit of the rock. After an uncomforta...
Twaharpies—American-Japanese Joint ExpeditionAlvin E. and Frances RandallFor each of us, the American-Japanese Joint Expedition became a reality as we jumped out of the Cessnas onto the east branch of the Russell Glacier near Mount Bona. Though it...