FALL INTO CREVASSEAlaska, Talkeetna MountainsAt 1700 on April 26, Alpine Ascents guide Brian McCullough (42) was traveling with three clients on an unnamed glacier in the Talkeetna Mountains when he broke through a snow bridge and fell fifty feet ...
It’s No Game, Schaffer Buttress, The Needles. In October, Dick Leversee, Steve Brower and I climbed this four-pitch wall which is located across the Kern River from the Needles, near Schaffer Meadow/Cedar Canyon. The climb starts in a gouged-out a...
The Syllable. On November 7, 1971, Sibylle Hechtel shared with me the first ascent of a fine line just left of The Sequel, which we christened “The Syllable”. There is some speculation that Jim Madsen and partner climbed this route before us, mist...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE TIE-INNew York, ShawangunksOn June 2, 1982, a man (32) was following on the first pitch of City Lights (5.7) when he fell. His rope undipped, so his total fall was 18 meters. He died at Vassar Hospital. (Source: Brad Snyde...
Kalabaland Glacier Region. The pre-monsoon expedition to the Kalabaland Glacier commemorated the tenth anniversary of the Mountaineering Club of the Students’ Gymkhana, Indian Institute of Technology, Bombay. The glacier lies in the remote northea...
Mount Adams, Klickitat Face*. Between the two cascading icefalls of the Klickitat Glacier on the east face of Mount Adams is a 3000-foot headwall of almost the same width. This 50° slope of lava, ash, and breccia is adorned by several ice remnants...
On May 3 Paul Claus flew us from the Ultima Thule Lodge to a 10,500' base camp at the head of the eastern branch of the Barnard Glacier, five miles south of Mt. Bear. We were Brad Gessner, Hans Neidig, Stuart Parks, Wayne Todd, Jeannie Wall, Carri...
H. ADAMS CARTER 1914-1995The sudden death of Adams Carter on April 1 brought a sense of loss and sadness to the mountaineering world. Ad, as he was known, was internationally renowned as the Editor of The American Alpine Journal, the world’s outst...
Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage, second ascent. The welcoming heat of late June had us on the Icefields Parkway to attempt Eric Dumerac’s route, Rights of Passage. Eamonn Walsh, Greg Thaczuk, and I left in early afternoon and made our way to the ...
On October 17, 1978, Vera Watson fell to her death on Annapurna I. She and Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz were climbing roped together on a steep, icy slope near Camp V when they apparently slipped. Both were killed. Earlier that day they had left C...
Ten years ago I tried to climb in the Arrigetch but failed to do anything, because of rain. I returned in July 2010 with Claudia Nestler and food for 32 days. Nevertheless, we had only five days without rain, operating from a base camp on Arrigetc...
FRANCOIS EMILE MATTHES 1874-1948Mountain climbing was for François Matthes all in the day’s work. Yet he enjoyed this, as he did every process by which he enriched his knowledge of the earth’s surface and the physical causes of its conditioning. H...
Alma Negra and Cerro Negro, Second Ascents, Cordón de la Ramada. Hermann Joos, Héctor de la Vega, Juan Carlos Damonte Taboda, Daniel Burlon, Irene Rost, Helga Brimmer and I on February 12 left the junction of the Colorado and Patos rivers, which i...
Iowa Mountaineers. In 1950 the Club enjoyed its largest membership—1322. The budget permitted purchase of essential new equipment, including a Club bus of special design and two 16-mm. cameras. Five 16-mm. color films of Club expeditions were edit...
Noshaq and Neighboring Peaks. On July 7 Ambros and Anton Aich- horn, Günter Brenner, Oswald Kollreider, Herbert Müller and I as leader left Austria in a VW bus and a VW bug for the 5000-mile trip, which went without a hitch. In Kabul, the Afghan c...
MARGARET YOUNG 1932–1979Margaret Young, an AAC member since 1973, died of cancer on June 17, 1979, after a 27-year mountaineering career including climbs in the U.S.A., Canada, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia, Kenya, Iran, Afghanistan, Russia, Nepal, and...
Aconcagua, Mobitel’s Swallow-Johan’s Route. Slovene mountaineers Tomaz Humar and Ales Kozelj climbed the south face of Aconcagua by a new route in the last days of December. The new route is dedicated to Humar’s late partner Janez Jeglic, who suff...
Deltaform Mountain, North Face. Certain mountains grab us when we first see them; they remain with us until we can work them out of our system. Such was the 4000-foot north face of Deltaform Mountain, and the sinuous ice couloir that works its way...
Peaks in the Lindberg Bjerge; Cathedral and Other Peaks in the Lemon Bjerge. Our expedition was composed of Gary Baum, Luke Bartlett, Luke Hughes, Robin Illingworth, William Pelkey, Michael Woolridge and me as leader. We landed at 68°54'N, 32°08'W...
Ghul Lasht Zom South, Spanish Ascent. A Spanish expedition was composed of Fernando Martínez Perez. César Pérez de Tudela, Angel González, Carlos Romero, Francisco Caro and Elena de Pablo. The first four reached the summit (c.21,000 feet) from Cam...