Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. A 14-member Korean expedition led by Jang Bong- Wan attempted to climb the north face of Annapurna. On December 19, they reached 7300 meters before abandoning the attempt.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Carabiner Came off Sling, Exceeding Abilities, West Virginia, New River Gorge, Beauty Mountain

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CARABINER CAME OFF SLING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWest Virginia, New River Gorge National Park, Beauty MountainOn August 19, approximately twelve or fifteen feet up on a route called “Brainteasers” (5.10 a), CU (21)...


Book Reviews AAJ
Shawgunk Rock Climbing

Shawangunk Rock Climbing. Richard DuMais. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1985. 84 color and 31 black and white photographs. $27.50.Since the appearance of CLIMB!, climbing enthusiasts in the East have been waiting for their own version of this classic ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control—Voluntary Glissade, Inadequate Equipment, Wyoming, Tetons, Lower Saddle

LOSS ON CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWyoming, Tetons, Lower SaddleOn July 27, Shawn Callahan (31) lost control during a voluntary glissade on the snow below the Lower Saddle, near the base of Middle Teton. An Exum Mountain Guide...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Rataban

Rataban. A team from Calcutta led by Kala Chand Chatterjee approached the peak from the Valley of Flowers. On August 19, Raj at Mahalanobish, Ragban Singh Rawat and Jagat Singh Rana reached the summit (6166 meters, 20,230 feet).Harish Kapadia, Him...


Book Reviews AAJ
To the Summit: Fifty Mountains that Lure, Inspire, Challenge

To the Summit: Fifty Mountains that Lure, Inspire, Challenge. Joseph Poindexter. Black Dog & Leventhal Publishing: New York, 1998. 300 color photos. 320 pages. $39.98.The specter of mountain beauty and illusion dignifies this ambitious debut. ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Possible Poor Position Choice Montana, Gallatin Range, Hyalite Canyon

On Thursday morning, December 10th, at 0700 a group of 24 (12 teams) participants lined up in the Grotto Falls parking lot for the 4th annual Ice Breaker ice climbing competition. Each team climbs as many difficult routes as possible in a day. Aro...

| Published 2009


In Memoriam AAJ
Adolphus Washington Greely, 1844-1935

ADOLPHUS WASHINGTON GREELY 1844-1935General Greely, Arctic explorer, an Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club, was born in Newburyport, Mass., March 27th, 1844, and died in Walter Reed Hospital, Washington, on October 20th, 1935.He enlisted ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Himalaya, Nanga Parbat Range, Deosai Plains, Ski Crossing

Deosai Plains ski crossing. Thomas Niederlein, Norbert Trommler, and I arrived in Pakistan in mid-March, with plans to circumnavigate Nanga Parbat on skis, crossing the Shontar Pass into Kashmir and the Barai Pass toward Chilas.Just before donning...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Emmerich, Chilkat Mountains, Alaska Coast Mountains

Mount Emmerich, Chilkat Mountains, Alaska Coast Mountains. One lovely alpine peak stands out in particular from the Chilkat River, only some eight miles from Haines and in plain view of the town. Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), a bastion of granite an...


Feature Article AAJ
Logan Mountains, 1965

Logan Mountains, 1965William J. BuckinghamIn 1960, from the summits near Glacier (Brintnell) Lake1, as we gazed out across the myriad clusters of spires and peaks, our eyes often lingered longingly on a particularly fine group of peaks far to the ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering

Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering. Chic Scott. Calgary: Rocky Mountain Books, 2000. Countless photographs. 440 pages.This author knows his stuff, as well he ought, given his long experience with the Canadian mountain scene. ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Three Peaks Mountain, Southwest Face, Attempt

Three Peaks Mountain, southwest face, attempt. Six young Koreans led by Lee Jae-yong attempted a new route on Three Peaks Mountain/Mahindra. By September 10 they had established Camp 2 on the upper Dali Glacier below the peak, hoping to make a com...


Feature Article AAJ
Altitude Illness—Recent Advances in Knowledge

Altitude Illness—Recent Advances in KnowledgeCharles S. Houston, M.D.LESS than thirty years ago the great Himalayan peaks in Nepal were opened for the first time to climbers, and the Karakoram ranges were re-opened. Since then all of the major pea...


Accident Reports ANAM
Grand Mal Seizures, Alaska, Mount McKinley

GRAND MAL SEIZURES Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 16, 1994, John Merrigan (43) was climbing Mount McKinley when he began experiencing what appeared to be Grand Mal seizures at 7,800 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. He was evacuated at 0745 on May 17 by...


Feature Article AAJ
Canadian Light Everest Expedition

Canadian Light Everest ExpeditionSharon Wood, Alpine Club of CanadaIT WAS ONLY a few days after Dwayne Congdon and I had stumbled off the summit of Mount Everest when Barry Blanchard roused me from my semi-conscious void within the sanctuary of my...


Feature Article AAJ
A Feast of Many Courses

A Feast of Many CoursesJ. Monroe ThoringtonThe literature of mountaineering is replete with references to food and drink, running the gamut from feast to famine. The Swiss humanist, Rhellicanus, ascended the Stockhorn in 1536, and left the earlies...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Imperial College East Greenland Expedition

Imperial College East Greenland Expedition. An eight-man expedition from Imperial College, London, worked in the Mount Forel district of East Greenland. The members were M. C. Clark, A. G. Cram, C. D. Dean, F. Ekman, M. H. Key, R. W. Rowe, J. R. T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wichmann Tower, Arrigetch

Wichmann Tower, Arrigetch. After our airdrop at the head of Arrigetch Creek, it was a day’s hike in from Circle Lake, some on very tiring ground. We were a mixed group with different abilities: Rein Grabbi, Juri Tint, David Kaplan, my wife Gitta a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Inadequate Protection , Climbing Unroped, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress.On May 19, “Seven Summits Croatia” party of two flew into the Kahiltna Glacier with plans to summit Mt. McKinley via the Messner Couloir. They...