FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Thor PeakOn September 30, 1991, at 1000, Forest McCarthy (23) fell about 80 feet while climbing Thor Peak. His climbing partner, William Starrett (31), lowered McCarthy several hundred feet before leaving him to get help.At 14...

Innocents in PeruYves Laforest, Canadawe COMPLETED A TEAM of six climbers two weeks before departure: five from the Province of Québec, Jocelyn Ouellet, Jean-François Denis, Gérard Bourbonnais, Serge Dufour and me and one from Nevada, Mike Tupper....

Api Attempt. A five-member British expedition led by Robert Brown was unable to complete the climb of the south face of Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet), reaching only 6000 meters on October 10.Elizabeth Hawley

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Stone Mountain State ParkOn February 27, my two partners and I were getting ready to climb Mercury’s Lead off the tree ledge. Two young women (I’ll call them Jane and Joan) came walking dow...

Buni Zom Main, attempt; Buni Zom South; 6MT, first ascent; 6MT West, attempt; Buli Zom, new route on north face and death. I had previously been to the Buni Zom range, northeast of Chitral in the western Hindu Raj, in 2002 and 2004. Our aim was Bu...

The Fairweather MountainsW. S. LaddTO sail on salt water to the base of an ice-laden mountain range is a rare adventure. To disembark, step onto ice and begin an ascent of 12,000 ft. or more, involving glacier and rock work of the best mountaineer...

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PRORLEMS New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksEighteen accidents were reported in 1993, nine of which resulted in fractures, and one of which resulted in a fatality—the first since 1983. The latter occurred in Oc...

The Japanese ExchangeRosamond C. AndrewsNEW YORK TO Anchorage to Seoul and back to Tokyo is the cheap way to Japan from the east coast, and thus my route of choice. My flight is not only circuitous, it’s premature; I’m arriving two days earlier th...

Kula Kangri Central and East, first ascents. In spring a joint expedition comprising 11 Japanese (leader, Yoshitsugu Deriha) and eight Tibetans (leader, Tseden Jigmy) made the first ascents of Kula Kangri Central (Kula Kangri II; 7418m) and Kula K...

Shisha Pangma Medical Expedition. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto and the Kyoto University Medical School sent a medical expedition to Shisha Pangma. We had 32 Japanese and two Chinese members. There were 13 medical doctors, two clinical laborat...

We planned to climb the northeast ridge on Pokharkan, but the arrival of a violent wind, with gusts of 80-100 km/hour at 6,000m, forced us to find a route that was more sheltered. Nevertheless, heavy snow, the cold (-15°C or lower), and strong win...

At the end of September Denis Burdet (Swiss), David Lama (Austrian), Stefan Siegrist (Swiss), and American photographer Robert Frost made the second ascent of Cerro Kishtwar (6,155m). This area of the eastern Kishtwar Himalaya, untouched by the mo...

This is the thirty-second issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and the third that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: About nineteen mountaineering accidents from ...

FALL ON ROCK, ROPE PARTED—FRICTION DEVICENorthwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mount ThorIn mid-July A.G. (30) began a solo attempt on a new route on the 3800-foot granite west face. The lower two thirds of the face are vertical and the upper thir...

Cerro Stanhardt, East Face, Attempt. Spaniards Simon Elias and Josu Merino attempted to link up Tomahawk and Exocet on December 17, 1996, but were forced to retreat after climbing the Tomahawk variation (400 m, WI6 Al) due to fatigue and poor ice ...

Monument Basin, Meemohive, Captain Pugwash. Dave Levine and I visited Monument Basin in April and, after attempting to free the short but steep aid section on the Meemohive, found a devious traverse to the right into an easier crack system. This t...

AAC, Northern Rockies Section. As an AAC representative, a board member of the Boise Climbers Alliance, and an Idaho local, Doug Colwell participated as a member of the Climbing Management Plan (CMP) for Castle Rocks State Park, which adjoins the ...

Makalu, West Face Attempts, Pre- and Postmonsoon, Makalu II (Kangchungtse), and Makalu solo. Both before and after the monsoon the Pole Wojciech Kurtyka and I, plus respective friends, were involved in two attempts to climb Makalu’s west face. We ...

Mt. Johnson, The Escalator, New Route and Tragedy. On May 17 and 18, in warm and unsettled weather, Seth Shaw and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on Mt. Johnson. It started on a 50-degree ice runnel on the east face, left of the promin...

P 5800 (Goodwill Peak) and Chottukay (P 5823), Muzkol, East Pamirs, Tadjikistan. No sooner did the helicopter drop us in Muzkol than the Tadjiki government closed all the borders. Of course we did not know that at the time. We then made two first ...