Gangapurna Attempt. We had the last of the monsoon rains on the first day of our march in, followed by a long stretch of good weather. During this time we set up and stocked Advance Base at 14,500 feet and placed two camps on the mountain. We and ...

Japanese Dhaulagiri Attempt. On October 6, leader Tatsuhisa Mitoma, Koji Hayashi and Nuru Zambu Sherpa gained the team’s highest point of 7050 meters on the normal northeast-ridge route of Dhaulagiri. When they tried again after a rest, they found...

Bubbs Creek Wall was climbed on June 8 and 9, 1974 by Mark Losleben, Mike McGoey, Reed Cundiff, and Fred Beckey by a new route.

Lappland: On April 4th, 1931, the Lappland Alpine Club inaugurated at Nikkoluokta their first club hut, situated 100 miles within the Arctic Circle and forty miles from the nearest railroad. This is probably the most northern alpine hut in the world.

Makalu, West Face Attempt. Makalu has never been successfully scaled by the vast central portion of its west face. A team of Italians attempted a line halfway between the one followed in the autumn of 1981 to 7900 meters by Poles Jerzy Kukuczka an...

1992-1993 Southern Summer Season in Patagonia. Because the climbing season comes more or less at the same time as the American Alpine Journal goes to press, only a small part of the material can be covered until a year later. However, we do try to...

Mustagh Ata. Our Franco-Italian ski expedition climbed the normal route on the Mustagh Ata. We arrived at Base Camp on August 6 from Pakistan via the Kunjerab Pass. On August 16, Marc Chauvet, Paolo Henry, Pierre Gaillot, Françoise Walter, André L...

Taylor Canyon, Aphrodite, South Face, The Rotor. Mike Pennings and I completed a route on the south face a month-and-a-half after first attempting this line. The route (IV 5.10 A3+) starts in a straight-in splitter and reaches a rightward-trending...

Indrasan from the North. After bicycling from Simla to Manali, our approach began on May 8. The conditions for the porters were very difficult because of abnormally deep snow at that season. We placed Base Camp at 4300 meters at the foot of the ma...

Mount Owen, Serendipity Arête. A new route on the west side of Mount Owen was climbed on August 8 by Sterling Neale, Rick Medrick, Frank Magary, and Bill Buckingham. The route lies on a steep ridge or corner which runs diagonally across Mount Owen...

FALL ON ROCK, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS—FAILED TO PUT THEM ON Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CollierTwo climbers, R.H. and H.B. (50), were descending Mt. Collier (3216 meters) on July 25, 1994, roped together. H.B. belayed R.H. across a 40-degree sn...

Nanga Parbat, RupalFace, Winter Attempt 1990-91. Our joint Anglo-Polish expedition flew to Gilgit on November 24, 1990. We were leader Maciej Berbeka, Jacek Berbeka, Andrzej Osika, Andrzej Samolewicz, Wojciech Szczerba, Zbigniew Terlikowski, Dr. K...

Mount Hooker, North Face, New Route, Wind River Range. The 2000-foot north face of Mount Hooker had only one recorded ascent until last summer, the Robbins-Raymond-McCracken ascent of 1964. Hooman Aprin and I made an audacious winter attempt in 19...

Mt. Prindle, McCloud. Around July 4, Ian McRae and I climbed a five-pitch (200-foot rope) route to the right of The Fleecing of America. The route, McCloud (5.9 A2), was a combina- tion of mixed and free. The climb was typical of the rock at Mt. P...

Mount Louis, South Face. Jerry Fuller and I made a new route on the south face of Mount Louis, starting directly above the saddle between Louis and Edith. The first leads followed a large gully system, where we had difficult aid and 5th class clim...

Pico Ojeda, Northeast Face, Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Jim Wells and I made the first ascent of this face from January 13 to 15, 1978, including the approach. The face seems to be the largest in the range, vertically higher and steeper than the...

Temple of Sinawava, The Not So Secret Show. In October, Todd Stephens, Tyler Philips, and Troy Anderson climbed The Not So Secret Show (IV+ 5.10 A3, seven pitches) on the Temple of Sinawava. Descent was made by hiking the ridge west toward Angel’s...

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in the section increased during the year to 68, a new record. Four meetings were held, and the following excellent programs were given: the astonishing ascent and tragic descent of the east face of Mount H...

Yosemite Valley, an Intimate Guide, by Ansel F. Hall, chief naturalist of the National Park Service. National Park Publishing House, Berkeley, California.A similar book to the preceding, and a very comprehensive one. Any one digesting all the mate...

Numbur. A New Zealand expedition led by Peter McInally climbed Numbur (6954 meters, 22,815 feet) via the southwest ridge, the route of the French in 1981. They had an advance base and two high camps. On March 29 Mclnally, Rob Hall, Bill King, Stev...