Annapurna Solo Attempt. South Tyrolean Reinhard Patscheider hoped to make a solo ascent of Annapurna by the northwest face, which he knew from having been a member of Messner’s successful expedition on it in the spring of 1985; Patscheider did not...
Ango. Felix Golling, German, Tom Hardy, American, Keith Woodford, Australian, and I approached Ango (16,811 feet) from the Quebrada Pajush and climbed the snow slopes on the northwest shoulder to reach its summit on August 13, 1974, ascending from...
Abi Gamin Ascent and Kamet Attempt. Our team consisted of Miss Maharookh Gowadia, Miss Medha Bapat, Dr. Suneel Vartak, Jitendra Hande, Prasad Mhatre, Rajesh Gadgil and me as leader. We established Base Camp on Vasudhava Tal at 15,400 feet on May 2...
Ama Dablam, Winter Ascents and Attempt. There were four expeditions on Ama Dablam in December of 1993, all on the normal southwest ridge. A South Korean expedition led by Yoon Kwang may be punished by the Nepalese authorities for completing almost...
North Face of the Matterhorn. This climb was repeated twice this past summer, a season favorable to its execution, the rocks being consolidated by much snow and ice. On July 16th and 18th, Josef Schmidbauer and Ludwig Leiss made the climb, spendin...
Diamond, Diamond Lil Route, Longs Peak. During two July days Michael Covington, Dennis Hennek and I climbed a new route on the highest part of the Diamond Face of Longs Peak. It is a line wholly independent of others on this face and goes up betwe...
Shakhaur-Nadir Shah Traverse. The Kraków Academic Alpine Club expedition ascended Shakhaur (23,347 feet) by a new route. Between July 11 and 22 we acclimatized in the Kohe Zebak group. On July 23 we reached the village of Shakhaur in the Wakhan an...
Ocypete, Twaharpies Group, 1977. A seven-man Japanese party climbed Ocypete (13,550 feet) from Base Camp on the Russell Glacier at 8200 feet with Advanced Base at 10,000 feet and Camp I at 10,350 feet. They all reached the summit on April 25 and 2...
The lure of untouched walls amidst classic alpine peaks once again supplanted senses of propriety and self-preservation as we returned to the Tatina Glacier in June. There was the air of a class reunion as Andy Embick, Alan Long, Randy Cerf and I ...
CLIMBING ALONE, IMPROPER EQUIPMENT—California, Mt. Shasta. Some time on the 15th of September, John Saulsberry (55) attempted a climb of Mt. Shasta from the ski bowl. On the evening of the 15th and 16th an early storm hit the area, dropping large ...
Monte Buckland, Tierra del Fuego. An Italian expedition under the leadership of Carlo Mauri made in February the first ascent of extremely difficult Monte Buckland (5905 feet), which rises above the Straits of Magellan. Other members of the party ...
Yuzhu Feng, Eastern Kunlun, Qinghai. Our expedition was composed of Yasuji and Kimio Moriyama, Hiroaki Tokuda, Yasuji Wakita, Yasuo Ota and me as leader. We arrived at Xining via Beijing on July 23. On July 25, we left Xining by jeep and drove thr...
Dome Kang, east-southeast ridge, attempt. From September 7 to October 14 a six-member Spanish expedition (Elena Goded, Emilio Lagunilla, Guillermo Manana, Daniel Salas, Carlos Soria, and I) attempted the unclimbed Dome Kang (7,264m) in the northea...
The Lighthouse. Located ten miles east of Moab, the Lighthouse is a prominent sandstone spire rising above the south rim of the Colorado River canyon. On June 1 Harvey Carter, Tom Merrill, and I reached the overhanging summit by an east-face route...
Sierra Nevada Section. The Sierra Nevada Section enjoyed an active 2008 with our members climbing, reaching out to the climbing community, and working to protect the places we climb. We hosted our traditional “Climb-munity” gatherings for both our...
Yerupajá Chico. Yves Astier made the second ascent of the north face solo on June 1. This was previously reported as Yerupajá Sur.Rasac and Yerupajá Sur, West Face Direct, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition was composed of Emili Civis, Lluis Bel...
The Weeping Wall, Stoneagin. From July 30 to August 19, Shinichi Sakamoto, Misako Koyanagi and Mike Libecki made the first ascent of The Weeping Wall via Stoneagin (VI5.9 A3+, 550 meters. The Weeping Wall is on the Weeping Glacier close to Breidib...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. The following talks and pictures were presented at our four meetings in 1964: Richard Millikan: "The Wicker- sham Wall of Mount McKinley;” Royal Robbins: "Advanced Rock Climbing Techniques"; Carlos Puente and Eduardo...
Nanda Ghunti. Swapan Ghosh, Dawa Tsering and Phuba Tarkey reached the summit of Nanda Ghunti (20,700 feet) on October 2.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Jirishanca Chico Oeste, Trapecio, Rasac, Cordillera Huayhuash. My wife Silvia Metzeltin and I climbed in the Cordillera Huayhuash. On June 19 we climbed Jirishanca Chico Oeste (5270 meters, 17,290 feet) by what we think is a new route, the south r...