Cho Oyu. Cowboys on Cho Oyu consisted of Americans Michael Bacon, Alan Jennings, Charlie Schertz, Ed Yoshida and me as leader, Michael Clarke, who is an Englishman who has acquired American citizenship, British David Hambly and Canadian David McCl...
Glacier Studies during the International Geophysical Year, 1957-58RICHARD C. HUBLEYThe International Geophysical Year (IGY), 1957-58, has a special significance to glaciologists in that it marks the initiation of glaciology as a major, important b...
Two MemorandaA Brief History of Mount Everest’s Altitude and The Configuration of the Summit of Mount EverestBradford WashburnGEORGE EVEREST WAS APPOINTED SUPERINTENDENT of the Great Survey of India in 1823. He became Surveyor General in 1830. He ...
Sawtooth Peak, North Face. Because the nearly vertical profile of Sawtooth’s north face is very noticeable from the road approaching the Kaweah, then again nearing Mineral King, it seemed quixotic that climbers had not probed its defenses. On Sept...
A New Insulation Technique. The difficulty of insulating the body against cold by use of woollen or down garments has always been that, as the insulating medium got damp either from body moisture or from outside moisture, its insulating efficiency...
Introduction to Rock and Mountain Climbing by Ruth and John Mendenhall; illustrated by Vivian Mendenhall. Harrisburg, Pa.: Stackpole Books, 1969, 192 pages. $5.95.This straightforward book is full of information and is concisely written and well o...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeLuke Casady and Ansel Vizcaya (both 29) departed White River Campground on Friday June 11 for a planned ascent of Liberty Ridge. The exact details of the subsequent 48 hours may never be known, but ...
RICHARD M. EMERSON1925-1982Dick Emerson and I met almost forty years ago and shared the U.S. Mountain Trooper’s war. Thirteen years his senior, I am unprepared to write the inclusive dates after his name and to face his leaving before I did. I had...
GeographicalDistricts1951-86NumberofAccidents DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumberofAccidents1987DeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta219664816016British Columbia11987841314546Yukon Territory222361122Ontario19538214Quebec133322111East Arctic6218000W...
Saipal. A seven-man Austrian expedition, under the leadership of Dr. Rudolf Jonas, left Tanakpur for Northwestern Nepal in April, 1954. Their route lay through Chainpur, where they were received by the Maharaja of Bajang, who later visited them at...
On June 5, 13 Americans, forming the second part of an exchange between the AAC and the Alpine Club of Iran (ACI), arrived in Tehran. The first part of the exchange took place in the Tetons during July 2010.On our first afternoon we drove through ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OFF ROUTE,EXCEEDING ABILITIES Washington, Levenworth, Castle RockAs part of the 1989 Seattle Mountaineers Intermediate Climbing Course Rock II field trip, six climbers went to Castle Rock in Tumwater Canyon nea...
ALFRED LOWRY CASTLE 1884-1972Alfred Castle was born in Honolulu on March 18, 1884, went to Hotchkiss School and received his LL.B. from Harvard in 1906. He began the practice of law in his father’s firm, Castle and Withington, and later with Rober...
Scottish winter season summary. It is early April as I write this. Despite the birdsong and spring flowers, here in Northern England, 90 miles south of the Scottish border, it’s snowing. Up in the Scottish Highlands the cliffs are buried beneath b...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers’ Seattle climbing program, under the leadership of Ron Eng, continues to maintain a long-standing focus on alpine climbing in the Pacific Northwest. However, the program has continued to expand significantly. In ...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak, The DiamondOn July 20, Carloyn Davis (27) became stranded while rappelling down The Diamond (East Face). She and her partner had climbed the Casual Route (grad...
Travel and Ascents South of BanffJ. W. A. HicksonOTHER companions having failed, Edward Feuz, Jr., and the writer set out from Banff on August 8 last to revisit the scenes of a trip made nine years earlier and to push farther south than we did the...
BELAY FAILURE: A ROPE PARALLEL TO A CREVASSE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. Rick Kirschner (27) and John M. Loehr (24) left Camp Muir on Mt. Ranier at 9 p.m. on 24 July 1974, for a summit climb via the Fuhrer’s Finger route. They were tied together by o...
Manuel D’Alpinisme. Two volumes, 8 vo. Chambéry : Librairie Dardel, 1934.With the evolution of Alpinism rapidly going on, the technic of mountain climbing is progressively more complex. It is natural then that new books on Alpine craft should appe...
Karakoram SummerA prolific month of new~routing in the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.Steve HouseSeptember 2003, Hushe village, BaltistanAs I clean, dry, and pack expedition supplies into plastic drums, I review the climbing season that just ended, hi...