Eagle Rock Spire, Monument Valley. It had been a number of years since Fred Beckey and I had together accepted the challenge of sandstone climbing. This year our efforts were directed toward Eagle Rock Mesa and the 450-foot leaning needle to the w...
This is the fifty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twenty-third issue in which The Alpine Club of Canada has contributed data and narratives.Canada: This was a year in which an unusually high number of experienced...
Panch Chuli Christian BoningtonThe BLOB OF LIGHT was a reassuring gleam, the head torch of one of the team, slowly descending the dark and craggy buttress to the tent where I had elected to stay that morning. I had been tired, worried about the di...
Central Rockies Section. In January 2008 the Section held a Basecamp Breakfast at the Ouray Ice Festival. Brittany Griffith spoke about climbing in Spain, and 20 percent of the crowd became new members of the Club by the end of the event. 2008 als...
The Lamya Valley to the Mountains of the MoonAlex BertulisDespite threats from rebel tribesmen to impale porters hiring out to mountain climbers, the incomparable Mountains of the Moon, on the Uganda-Congo boundary, are once again accessible to th...
Kalanka from the North. Our expedition had 14 members: Jan Kulhánek, Dr. Bohumil Karâsek, Jirí Strych Jaroslav Hons, Jirí Janiš, Ladislav Jón, Richard Kašták, Oldrich Kopal, Jaroslav Krnák, Gustav Pfannenstiel, Misoslav Polman, Josef Rakoncaj, Mir...
Climbing—Philosophy for Everyone: Because It’s There. Stephen E. Schmid, ed. Foreword by Hans Florine. Wiley-Blackwell, 2010. 256 pages. Paperback. $19.95Eric Shipton once said “climbing is a form of philosophy,” or something like that. His philos...
Northern Rockies Section. 2004 was a busy and productive year in the Northern Rockies. We began the year in Boise with a video presentation by Dick Dorworth of the classic 1968 Funhog Expedition to Patagonia, which resulted in the third ascent of ...
In Spirit LandFred BeckeyNORTH of Taku Inlet and River, and east of Lynn Canal, flat and interlacing glaciers form what is probably Alaska’s fifth largest ice field, the so-called “Juneau Ice Cap.” Relatively accessible but largely unexplored, thi...
Bhagirathi II. Five advance course students of the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering climbed Bhagirathi (21,364 feet) on May 16 under the leadership of Major Surat Singh, Acting Principal. Sherpa instructor Shangbhu and Major Singh guided the foll...
FALLING/DISLODGED ROCKWyoming, Wind River Range, Easy Day PeakOn August, 9 at 1100, while following the first Pitch of the North Face route on Easy Day Peak (11,660 feet), Mark Gallagher pulled a large block off onto himself, and sustained injurie...
Pico Integral, Southwest Face. On August 24, Joe Stock and I left La Paz at 3 a.m. for the southwest face of Pico Integral, a “small” satellite peak of Huayna Potosi. The southwest face of Pico Integral (18,640') may have been climbed in earlier y...
Charles Duncan Fowler 1954-2006I first met Charlie Fowler in about 1977 in Eldorado Springs Canyon, Colorado. Already Charlie had made his vision-altering free solos of the Diamond on Long’s Peak and the DNB on Middle Cathedral Rock in Yosemite. T...
Mount Everest, Fifth Ascent. The expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club had 23 climbers, four doctors, three scientists and nine journalists, plus 45 Sherpas. The overall leader was 71-year-old Saburo Matsukata; climbing leader was Hiromi Otsuka. ...
Eye Tooth, The Talkeetna Standard; Mt. Dickey, Roberts-Rowell-Ward route, second ascent. Steve House and I were flown to the Mountain House on September 17. Dry conditions made this the only landing site available. That afternoon we skied down the...
Purcell Range, British Columbia: Bugaboo Spire. On 4 August 1948 a party of four climbers, Rudolph Pundt, Robert Becker, Ann Strong and Ian MacKinlay, reached the summit of Bugaboo Spire. They were members of a large group of Sierra Club and Stanf...
A First Season in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienLAST summer I visited the Bernese Oberland for the first time, with Adolf Rubi as my guide, and was fortunate enough to do some half dozen varied and interesting climbs. The first trip that we planned...
The Fiord Region of Greenland, by Louise A. Boyd. New York: The American Geographical Society.Edited by a modest feminine explorer, a readable account of a region overflowing with unique examples of geological and physiographic features, this admi...
Noshaq. On August 15 Günter Virt, leader, and Edmund Prandstetter of the Austrian Hindu Kush Expedition (Austria Section, Vienna) climbed both the west summit (24,580 feet) of Noshaq. On the 20th Michael Hasslinger, Karl Mahrer and Peter Reischer ...
Skyang Kangri Attempt. Our lightweight expedition, consisting of Jeff Lowe and me, attempted Skyang Kangri (7544 meters, 24,750 feet) alpine-style. May 27 saw us in Dasso, May 30 in Askole and June 6 at the site of the French Base Camp at the foot...