Illimani, south face to southwest ridge. After acclimatizing in Peru’s Cordilleras Huayhuash and Blanca, and a short trip to Huayna Potosi (Bolivia), Yvonne Koch and I planned to try a new route on the rarely visited western sector of Illimani’s s...
RAPPEL ERROR–FAILURE TO CHECK ANCHOR, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Shiprock, Hindu KushOn July 3, Lewis M. Jones II (22), and his partner, Joe Wilson (23) climbed Hindu Kush (5.8), a popular Shiprock route. Shiprock is a popular climbing a...
The Teton Peaks and Their Ascents, by Fritiof M. Fryxell, Grand Teton National Park, Wyo. The Crandall Studios, 1932 ; printed for the author by the Augustana Book Concern, Rock Island, I11. $2.00.This short account of the history of the climbing ...
Mount Huntington By Lionel Terray, Club Alpin Français. Translated by H. Adams Carter After seeing superb photographs by Bradford Washburn in a mountaineering journal, I realized what a magnificent field of action the McKinley Range would ...
Francis Younghusband: Explorer and Mystic, by George Seaver. 391 pages, maps and illustrations. London: John Murray, 1952. Price, 25/—.Sir Francis Younghusband came of an old fighting family, with established traditions in the Indian army, but he ...
Montana: Glacier National Park, Mt. Wilbur (circa 9,500 ft.) On 11 July 1950 four young men from Tulsa, Oklahoma (Chester Cadieux, Robert Stokes, Dick Hughes and John Fields) were campers at Many Glacier Camp Ground in the Swiftcurrent Valley. The...
STRANDED—AMONG OTHER THINGS California, Yosemite ValleyHere are a few examples of non-climbers in situations which ended up costing NPS personnel considerable time and funds.At 1620 on March 17, 1988, Ranger Jim Tucker was dispatched to Swan Slab ...
Mount Russell, South Ridge to East Peak. This very prominent crest is really a continuation of the main divide from the Whitney-Russell col. (It is the left profile as seen from Upper Boy Scout Lake.) Greg Thomsen, Ed Ehrenfeldt, and I made the cl...
JOHN HUDSON HALL 1896-1952Jack Hall, a member of the Club since 1921, died after a short illness in a Chicago hospital while on his way to a vacation in Montana. Heart attacks, aggravated by hot weather in New York where he had been working long h...
Accidents: The summer of 1931 was a most disastrous one for climbing. The terrible weather in the Alps caused a tremendous loss of life, while practically no great range was without its toll. In the Himalayas and the Caucasus and even in our own m...
The year 1952 unfortunately was one of the worst on record in the United States. The total number of reported accidents attributable to mountaineering in a broad sense was the greatest—35 total, the number of fatalities was exceeded only by those ...
LOOSE ROCKS (SEDIMENTARY) CAME OFF, FALL ON ROCKArizona, Mount Lemmon, Chimney RockOn April 151 (Tom Thrall, 58) was on the fourth day of a week-long climbing trip with my friend WG (69) on Mount Lemmon near Tucson. It was very windy that day, so ...
1953. K2 ExpeditionJim WickwireHillary and Tenzing's climb to the top of Everest earlier in 1953 provided the world with electrifying news. But the events on K2 that year were the stuff of legends, growing even more striking with the passage of ti...
Broad Peak. The Austrians climbed their fourth of the fourteen "8000ers” last summer, reaching the summit of Broad Peak (26,400 feet), the world’s twelfth highest peak, where they used neither high altitude porters nor oxygen. Indeed, although the...
This is the forty-sixth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the fifteenth that has been done jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Again, happily, we have fewer mountaineering accidents to re...
The Touchstone WallRon OlevskyoNE CLEAR cool day in 1975 Bob Den-berg and I were climbing in Eldorado. Bob cruised up to the base of the Rover Dihedral and set up a belay in a hole where I passed him to enjoy the pleasures of the comer above. At t...
Everest, First Complete Ski Descent. In the post-monsoon, Slovenian Davo Karnicar was the first person ever to descend by skis from the very top of Mount Everest to base camp; he accomplished this feat on the Nepalese side of the mountain without ...
By H. Adams Carter, Philippa Buchanan, Benjamin Morales Arnao, Eustaquio Henostroza, Glicerio Henostroza, Lucio Bustamante Valverde, John Ricker, I. Drummond Rennie In THIS ARTICLE we have pieced together observations of various people. First com...
The Oxus River has washed geological and geopolitical dust through time and space into the great Central Asian deserts. Reversing its course, we followed the river (now named the Amu Darya [or Darja] but referred to as the Wakhan in its upper sect...
Tusher/Mill Canyon Area, The House of Putterman. In October, Jon Butler and I made a free ascent of The House of Putterman. Brian Takei and I had made the first ascent of the butte in 1994 with one rest point, on a short finger crack on the third ...