Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Caucasus, Kiukiurtliu, West Face, New Route

Kiukiurtliu, West Face, New Route. On the right side of Kiukiurtliu's west face, a Saint Petersburg team led by Andrey Andreev and comprising Igor Potankin, Kirsanov Dmitry, and Krivitskiy Alexey established a new route (Russian grade 6B, approxim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range

Mount Sanford, Wrangell Range. On August 8 Randy Hargesheimer, Rich Swenson, Jean Borrett and I crossed the Copper River by raft and began the hike to Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). Our route followed Boulder Creek and Sheep Glacier to a point on th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Wasps, New York, Shawangunks

FALL ON ROCK, WASPS New York, ShawangunksOn July 27, 1986, a man (21) fell ten meters from Ursula (5.5) in wet conditions while being attacked by wasps. He suffered a compound fracture of one ankle, lacerations, and a possible head injury. (Source...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit

Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit. Early in the Everest expedition I suffered an attack of high-altitude sickness and returned to Base Camp. Despite a rapid recovery, our doctor recommended that I not go high again. Having disregarded t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Guide to the Colorado Mountains

Guide to the Colorado Mountains, edited by Robert M. Ormes. 188 pages, 32 maps, 34 illustrations, 6 in color. Denver: Sage Books, Inc., 1952. Price, $3.50.This is a joint endeavor in which Mr. Ormes and the Guide Book Committee of the Colorado Mou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Switzerland, Eiger

Eiger. A full article on the remarkable solo climb of the north face of the Eiger in winter by Jeff Lowe appears earlier in this Journal. It should be noted that Lowe’s good friend, Catherine Destivelle, made the first female solo winter ascent in...


Accident Reports ANAM
Youth, Rapid Ascent, Acute Mountain Sickness, California, White Mountains

YOUTH, RAPID ASCENT, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS California, White MountainsOn August 2, 1988, William R. Claybaugh, II (39), Martha G. Miller (36) and William R. Claybaugh, III (2) made a six hour automobile ascent from sea level to a campsite at 280...


Book Reviews AAJ
Flugbild der Schweiz

Flugbild der Schweiz, by Emil Egli, Peter Meyer, Walter Corti, and Eduard Imhof. Large 4to; 52 pages of text with 200 full- page plates by Swissair. Zürich: Munich-Verlag, 1949. Price Sw. Fr. 49.90.This book continues the tradition of Mittelholzer...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Paine Chico, Eol

Paine Chico, Eol. I first saw the west face of Paine Chico (also called Cerro Almirante Nieto’s west summit) in late 2002, when I was climbing on the east side of the Torres. I was surprised that there were no routes I knew of on the awesome-looki...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington—Denny Peak

Washington—Denny Peak: On July 27, 1952 David Ward (23) a Boeing Airplane Co. tooling engineer was out alone pursuing his avocation of Geology on the west side of Denny Peak. Venturing out on a corniced snow finger to reach the rock of the borderi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Chacraraju Este Attempts

Chacraraju Este Attempts. On July 18, Slovenes Pavle Kozjek and Gregor Kresal tackled the unclimbed east face of Chacraraju Este. The conditions were bad and so they were forced to bivouac after 500 meters. The next day, they climbed another 200 m...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

YearNumber of Accidents Reported USA-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved USA-CAN.InjuredUSA-CAN.KilledUSA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942–256–231–019–2196047–464–1237–819–419...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest, South Face, Winter Attempt, 1991-2

Everest, Southwest Face, Winter Attempt, 1991-2. Sixteen Japanese climbers with 25 Sherpas to help them were led by Kuniaki Yagihara. Their goal was to make the first winter ascent of the formidable southwest face, which had previously been ascend...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States (C.I.S.), Kyrgyzstan, Karavshin Region, Korzhenievskovo Valley, Various Ascents

Korzhenievskovo Valley, Various Ascents. From July 2 to August 22, Rowland Barker, Steven Carter, Hamish Downer, Mark Stevenson and I visited the Korzhenievskovo Valley in southern Kyrgyzstan. We attempted ten peaks and reached the summit of seven...


Club Activities AAJ
Southwestern Mountaineers

Southwestern Mountaineers. During 1957, the Southwestern Mountaineers carried out a program of intensive rock climbing in the Organ Mountains of New Mexico. While most of the major peaks had been climbed already, many new routes were pioneered and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Aconcagua

Aconcagua. Four instructors of ski school at Portillo, the Austrians H. Helmstreit, E. Marbreiter and H. Podlipnik, and the American T. Lane, made a winter ascent of Aconcagua, on Sept. 29. They found very little snow and were not able to use thei...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Volcán Colorado, Puna de Atacama

Volcán Colorado, Puna de Atacama. In December the Volcán Colorado (18,838 feet) was climbed by Antonio Beorchia Nigris, who found ceremonial sites from pre-Columbian times.Mario Fantin, Club Alpino Italiano


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Sharkfin Tower from the West Notch

Sharkfin Tower from the West Notch. A new route was made on June 20 on Sharkfin Tower, which lies between Forbidden and Boston Peaks. The first ascent had been made from the notch to the east, and the south face has also been climbed. This route i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Index Town Wall, Town Crier Route

Index Town Wall, Town Crier Route. A spell of dry weather at Christmas in 1965 prompted Seattle rock climbers to seek out a direttissima on this large cliff behind the town of Index, less than an hour’s drive from Seattle. At various times Eric Bj...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Sakhe Anjuman and Other Peaks

Sakhe Anjuman and Other Peaks. The 11 members of the Studenckie Kolo Prezewodnikow Gorskich SZSP-Krakow were led by Witold Winiarski. They drove from Kabul via Kunduz and Farkhar to Warsaj and walked via Petaw, Dan-i-Ab and Kotale Warsaj to the An...