Colorado: Estes Park, Rocky Mountain National Park. On 10 October 1949 another unsolved mystery of the mountains developed when two young hikers from the Colorado A. and M. Hikers’ Club disappeared on the top of 12,300-foot Flat Top Mountain. Davi...

FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATIONAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 16,1987, Franziska Bracher (27) and Ivan Seeholzer, (24) from Switzerland, began their attempt for the summit from the 5200 meter camp on the West Buttress. Two other members of their party turne...

STRANDED, OFF-ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, WEATHERCalifornia, Inyo National Forest, Mount RitterOn September 7th, the park received a mutual aid request from Mono County SAR for assistance in rescuing a stranded c...

A Fight for Life on Monte RosaGUY M. EVERETTMOUNTAINEERING is full of light and air. The early call, the quick breakfast, and away into the darkness with the flashlight picking a way through the rocks of the terminal moraine. Thus it started for F...

Map of Part of the Cordillera Carabaya from the Survey of the New Zealand Andean Expedition, 1967. We used a Kern DKM1 Theodolite. The heights and location of the main peaks within the range were determined by theodolite triangulation (approximate...

The S. E. Face of the Dent d’Herens (First Ascent)The S. E. face of the Dent l’Herens, 4,180 m. (4180 m.= 13,715 ft.) towers over 3,000 feet above the Cherillon Glacier. It is limited toward E. by a jagged ridge, which divides the Cherillon Glacie...

EXPOSURE (TOOK GLOVES OFF) - FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressKAJ Denali 2008 (from Croatia) expedition members Jadranko Mlinaric (40) and Kristina Marjanovic made a summit attempt on June 27th, turning around at Denali Pass. Mlinaric...

Trick of the LightA rope, a rack, and a pack on the backJonathan CoppSprawled in the glacier-fed meadow of Shipton Spire Base Camp, we gawk at the Cat’s Ears Spire and its fantastic needle-like summit. Now, within the honesty of satisfied exhausti...

Capicua, Gato Negro Lo Mejor Vino En Caja. Matt Touchette and I returned to paradise in January 2008 to try to find a route on the breathtaking, beautiful, serene Capicua, a 1,000m granite wall in Cochamó. There were two existing routes on the wal...

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Persons InvolvedInjuredFatalitiesUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164...

University Peak, Bear Raid Wall, No Bear Wall. Matt Graham, Barbara Presteridge and I climbed the direct north face (III, 5.8) of University Peak in July. The route started near the right side of a large tarn in the basin below the face. We headed...

Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, enjoyed the same miserable weather that other climbers experienced in 1971. The Climbing Committee laid out a schedule of 235 climbs for the year. Bad weather kept 46 of them from leaving town and spoiled ...

K2—The Savage Mountain, by Charles S. Houston, M.D., Robert H. Bates, and members of the Third American Karakorum Expedition. 334 pages, 27 photographs, with map and line drawings by Clarence Doore. 7 appendices. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1954. Price...

Nanda Kot, 1989. On August 21, 1989, our Base Camp was placed above the highest village Lawan at Lachhmanpatti at 14,000 feet. Advance Base was occupied at 16,000 feet on the 26th. During the night it began to snow and kept on until the 28th when ...

FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO KICK STEPS, UNABLE TO SELF–ARREST (SOFT/ SLUSHY SNOW), FATIGUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, TeewinotOn June 24 at 1000,I received a cell phone report from Exum Mountain Guide Christian Santelices, that a female (16) ...

The Guiding Spirit. Andrew J. Kauffman and William L. Putnam. Footprint Publishing, Revelstoke, British Columbia, 1986. 256 pages, photographs, and proper maps. $16.00.The Guiding Spirit is a biography of the well-known Swiss (and Canadian) mounta...

RAPPEL OFF UNEQUAL ROPESWashington, Index Town WallIn early August, Greg Child had one of the more exciting rappelling experiences possible. He reported it as follows:If I had a penny for every rappel I’d done, I’d be a rich man. After 22 years of...

Annapurna IV. The British Joint Services Expedition consisted of Brian Tilley, Lothar Kuelheim, Mark Samuels, Nick Arding, Dave Evans, Steve Willson, Rod Dunn, Gail Waller, Glyn Sheperd, Vick Barrows, Dr. Helen Robertson and me as leader. We arriv...

CHARLES DAVIS HOLLISTER 1936-1999Charley Hollister was an inexhaustibly cheerful and upbeat person with a Will Rogers-like wit, an adolescent’s playfulness and an unassuming folksy manner that masked a keen and creative intellect, exceptional driv...

STRANDED, POOR RAPPEL TECHNIQUEColorado, FlatironsDuring the morning of On December 28, Kevin Mines (53) and his son (16) started climbing the Third Flatiron. Later in the day while descending, Kevin injured his back rappelling and was unable to h...