The Dutch RouteThe northeastern, sunnier side of Thalay Sagar yields its first complete route.Mike van BerkelThe northeast face of Thalay Sagar had been on our minds since our 2001 trip to the Garhwal. We had climbed the south side of Bhrigupanth ...
Rocks around the World. Stefan Glowacz and Uli Wiesmeier. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1988. 144 pages. $24.95.There’s a commercial recipe behind Rocks Around the World: find a reigning rock-climbing star, send him with a personal photographe...
The Field Book of Mountaineering and Rock Climbing, by Tom Lyman and Bill Riviere. New York: Winchester Press, 1975. 208 pages, with photos and illustrations. Price: $8.95.Tom Lyman, an active experienced mountaineer, collaborated with outdoor ...
Northern Patagonian Icefield Traverse and Various Ascents. Between January 4 and January 27 our expedition, composed of seven members, visited the Northern Patagonian Icefield. We were Claudio Seeback, Norbert Seeback, Christian Buracchio, Christi...
Extreme Landscape: The Lure of Mountain Spaces. Edited By Bernadette McDonald. National Geographic Press. 2002. 320 pages. Paperback. $16.00.Anthologies are like families. You never know how the essays, all bound as one, will go. Extreme Landscape...
Homathko Icefield Traverse and Various First Ascents. According to reports, no one had ever crossed the Homathko. Jim LaRue, Phil Hocker, Ben Haverty, Chip Ausley, Eric Richardson and I spent the last three weeks of July finding out why. An Appala...
Bhrikuti is a Buddhist goddess. It is also the name of a Nepali princess, and the wife of the famous Tibetan emperor, Songsten Gampo. In addition, it is the name of a small summit in the Damodar Himal, deep in the confines of Nepal and Tibet, be...
Dir Gol Peaks. Dieter Oberbichler, leader, Dr. Gerhard Rupar, Walter Almberger and Gottfried Schneeberger of the Admont section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) traveled by microbus to Peshawar and flew to Chitral. They left on July 17 and in ...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE BOOTS AND CRAMPONS, INEXPERIENCE Montana, Glacier National Park, Mount JacksonOn January 8, Kyle Borchert (20), Shad O’Neel (22) and Taggart Schubert (25) obtained a five-day backcou...
Jirishanca’s West FaceRlCCARDO CASSIN, Lecco Section, Club Alpino ItalianoTHANKS TO the proposal of Dr. Sandro Liati, who with Gigi Alippi wanted to make an overseas expedition, my years-long dream of climbing in the Andes came true. Our friend, G...
Nganglong Kangri (Kang Ngolok) (6,710m), first ascent. The British Nganglong Kangri Expedition consisted of Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, and myself (UK) and Toto Gronlund (Finland). We left London on the 28th of August, flying to Kathmandu and ente...
Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Photography. Galen Rowell. Mountain Light Press, Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1993. 288 pages, 138 color photographs. $25.00Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Photography is a worthwhile re...
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada. by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. Second edition. 1930. Pp. 244. John C. Winston & Co., Philadelphia. $3.25 postpaid. Obtainable from the secretary of the American Alpine Club, 50 Co...
Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse MiddleThink all the 8000-meter summits have been climbed? Then you need the vision to see a peak like Lhotse’s middle summit, NepalYuri KoshelenkoThe history of the Himalaya and Karakoram says that there are only 1...
PULMONARY EDEMA or PNEUMONIA Alaska, Mt. McKinleyGeorg Wudi (35) was a member of the West German Mount McKinley Expedition. Bad weather delayed their departure for several days, but they were flown to the southeast fork landing strip on June 28. T...
EXPOSURE TO SEVERE WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATE EQUIP- MENT–PORTALEDGE, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 26 at 1415, Yosemite Dispatch received a telephone call from Robert Burton, who reported that he had received a ...
Bipeng Valley, Banji North, north face, attempt. Banji (Banji Feng; Half Ridge Peak, 5,430m) was the first main peak to be climbed in the Bipeng Valley. It was first ascended in May 2004 from the west via the drainage that flows down to the valley...
Nevados Chearoco, Calzada and Sihuaillusa, Cordillera Real. The Reading University Andean Expedition, Ronald H. F. Hunter leader, Robin G. Bradford, Edward F. J. Quicke, John Floodpage, Ray J. Fearon and Michael Smith, left La Paz for a seven-week...
Mount Logan High Altitude Project – 1970. The Arctic Institute of North America again operated its research facility on the summit plateau of Mount Logan at 17,600 feet. Research was again carried out in high altitude human physiology, climatology...
The Mountain World 1962/63. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Directed by Hans Richard Muller. English version edited by Malcolm Barnes. London: George Allen and Unwin, Ltd.; Chicago: Rand McNally and Co., 1964. 240 pages, 70 ...