Oregon, Mt. Hood. On September 5, five Reed College students: Richard Steven Knutson (21), Mike Templeton (21), Tom Link (21), Gary Payne (19), and Steve McCarthy (19) ascended Mt. Hood by the Sunshine Route. They left their camp at 4:00 A.M. and ...
Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, free ascent of the Nose and monster linkup. On October 30-31, in a 23-hour and 23-minute continuous push, Tommy Caldwell freed both the Nose (5.14a) and Free Rider (5.12d). Earlier in October, Caldwell and Beth Rodden ...
Kohe Morusg and Other Peaks. The Kraków Section of the Polish Society of Earth Sciences sent out an expedition under the leadership of Jerzy Wala and composed of W. Borowiec, A. Paulo, L. Kaszowski, Anna Swierzynska, J. Niewodniczanski and J. Mosc...
Annapurna Middle Peak Ascent and Tragedy. Expedition leader Ludwig Greissl, Udo Böning and Heinz Oberrauch on October 3 took ten hours to climb from their 23,300-foot Camp V to the untrodden middle peak of Annapurna (8064 meters, 26,457 feet). Obe...
Mt. Siyeh, Upward Descent. Glacier National Park is home to many alpine faces, but there is one that stands above the rest: the north face of Mt. Siyeh. We knew little about this face; allegedly it had only been climbed once, back in the 70s by Di...
FALL INTO CREVASSE-UNROPEDAlberta, Jasper National Park, Mount Athabasca, North GlacierOn April 9, a party of three were ascending the North Glacier on Mount Athabasca on skis, on a route a little higher than where the “standard” route normally go...
Annapurna, Dutch Rib. Our expedition was to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the foundation of the Federation of Shizuoka Prefecture Mountain Clubs. We were Hironobu Yagi, leader, Kazuo Ishikawa, Keizo Tanabe, Hiroyuki Takita. Hiroyuki Uno, Shuji...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section, Members of the Rocky Mountain Section visited and climbed in mountains all over the world in 1963. Some accompanied the Colorado Mountain Club’s Andean Expedition under the leadership of Harold Walton. Others trekke...
Nilgiri Central. On March 30 Shim Sang-Don, Lim Byung-Gil and I as leader set out for Base Camp at 13,625 feet, where we arrived on April 11, having crossed the Thulobugin Pass. On April 14 we set up Camp I at 16,075 feet two miles up the Nilgiri ...
Mount St. Elias. On May 27 Giorgio Tessari, Giuliano Fabbrica, Elio Scarabelli, Rino Zocchi, my brother Antonio Rusconi and I as leader left our small village of Valmadrera at the foot of the Grigna of Lecco. On June 4 Base Camp was established by...
On April 21 Gerard van den Berg and I installed camp at the top of the Pitchfork glacial cirque [They initially reported being on the North Fork Glacier, but their maps and coordinates show the Pitchfork, which drains to the Glacier Fork of the Tl...
Climber’s Guide to Devil’s Lake. Sven Olof Swartling, Second Edition, revised, enlarged. University of Wisconsin Press, 1995. Paper, 59 diagrams, 11 maps, 22 photos. 254 pages. $16.95.Comment: Much expanded over the 1979 edition, and climbs are fi...
The Colorado College Mountain Club. The year 1965 marked the 20th anniversary for the dub. Following the custom established over the past years, we continued to hold our weekly meetings and week-end climbs in the Colorado Rockies. The Pikes Peak a...
Jirishanca Chico and Ninashanca. Italians, E. Rosso, G. Lanza and E. Contini, climbed the southeast face of Jirishanca Chico (5427 meters, 17,805 feet) by a new route on the southeast face, which went up 1000 feet of icefall and then up 1650 feet ...
GEORGE MARSTON WEED 1864-1948Half a century ago George Weed was one of the most active members of the Appalachian Club. His introduction to the Canadian Rockies he owed to C. S. Thompson. In his first season, 1898, he made the first ascent of Moun...
Ancohuma, Illampu, Illimani, Cordillera Real, and Sajama. In the first part of our stay in Bolivia we intended to climb peaks in the Cordillera Real. Horst Caha and I traveled by truck to Sorata in the northern portion of the range, hoping to clim...
Huascarán. In early July Dave King, Brian Gregory, Jerry Martens, and I retreated from the southwest ridge of Huascarán. We marched around the mountain and five days later found ourselves on the summit via the standard route.Tom Limp, Freelance Al...
United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C., Cascade Section. As usual, the Section enjoyed an active year. Several members attended the annual outings of the A.C.C. and the Mountaineers at Mt. Robson. Fred Ayres and Don Woods made a number of fi...
Ama Dablam Attempts. Swiss Ivano Regazzoni, Athos Balestra and Franco Dellatorre attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam but could get no higher than 5700 meters on October 14. South Koreans led by Lee Hun-Sang were also unsuccessful, attempting t...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 9, 1985, a man (27) was climbing Congratulations (F9, 5.10) when he was injured in a leader fall. He took two short falls at the crux move, and both were held by a #7 stopper....