AVALANCHE, WEATHERWashington, Dragontail PeakEric Simmonson (22) and his partner (22) left the parking lot at Colchuck Lake early on the morning of November 3 to climb Dragontail’s north face in a day. The pair climbed up high on the route but dec...
Trango Towers Attempts. Canadians Jim Brennan and Greg Foweraker and Americans Dan Cauthom, Greg Collum, Matt Kerns, Pat McNerthney and Mark Wilford and I established Base Camp on the Trango Glacier in late May. Like other expeditions, we had diff...
Trisul. The 1975 Seattle Garhwal-Himalaya Expedition was led by Michael Clarke; other members were Jan Balut, David Hambly, Ray Jewell, Carl Moore, Gordon Thomas and I. We traveled by bus through the gorges of the Alaknanda to Lata. There we met o...
P 12,380. This peak lies between Hunter and McKinley. On May 11, after two previous attempts and a barrage of rotten weather, Chuck Sink, Mal Ulrich and I ascended a large couloir on P 12,380’s south face and joined the southwest ridge at a col. S...
Albert Icefield Area. A University of Wisconsin party visited this remote area for 2½ weeks in August. From a base camp at the west edge of the Albert Icefield complex, we made ten first ascents of peaks between 8000 and 10,000 feet in height. Mem...
INADEQUATE FOOD AND FUEL, FAILURE TO TURN RACK,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 1, Mitch Ward and Randy Adrian’s “Ice Skids” Expedition departed from Talkeetna to the north side of Denali National Park. They were dropped off by K-2 Aviati...
Tangi Ragi Tau South (Pahamlahaka) ascents and possible new route. Although they were unable to make any serious attempt on their main objective, the North Pillar/Face of Teng Kang Poche, a group of young French climbers were able to achieve sever...
Fitz Roy, Franco-Argentine Route, Second Solo Ascent. It was reported that Christoph Hainz ascended this route on December 24. From the Brecha de los Italianos he climbed the 650-meter route to the summit and back in nine hours using none of the f...
Mount Adams, East Face Direct via Victory Ridge. On the weekend of July 7 Don Gordon and I camped on the north side of the mountain, hoping to complete one of the few remaining unclimbed routes—a direct ascent of the east face in line with the sum...
Mount Colchuck, North Side Routes. Several routes have been done on this increasingly popular peak. In September 1969, Manuel Gonzalez and Don Williamson followed a prominent ledge system diagonaling up the face of the eastern side of the northeas...
Hengduan Range, Taniantawen Shan, exploration. In 2007 Tamotsu “Tom” Nakamura trekked along the Yu Qu Valley, photographing, to the west, the unknown Guezong massif and mountains to its south, and to the east, the northern part of the Nu Shan/Tani...
The Wisdom Tooth, South Face, New Route. It was reported that Graham Fontella, Bill Gambel, Mark Davis and Kevin Daniels put up a new route, Novocain (VI 5.10 A2), on the south face of the Wisdom Tooth in the Ruth Gorge over a five-day spell of go...
Rurigallay or Yantauri. Giuseppe Dionisi, leader, Eugenio Ferrero and Franco Ribetti on August 16 made the first ascent of Rurigallay (18,028 feet) by the west face in three days from Base Camp. They fixed 2500 feet of rope. Dionisi and Ferrero ha...
Stuttgart Hindu Kush Expedition, 1963. Rolf Reiser, leader, Dieter Grundig, Alfred Kehrle and Wolfgang Lutz traveled up the Panjir valley, over the Anjuman Pass to Anjuman and thence east into the Bologron valley, where they set up Base Camp at 14...
Chumstick Snag. A second route was made to this thin summit via the southwest face early in the year by Steve Marts and me. Iron placed in the spring of 1962 by Eric Bjornstad and me was used on the lower portion, and the climb was completed via a...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATNevada, Red Rocks Canyon National Conservation Area, Lost CreekOn December 5, C. A. and a friend, both visiting from Austria, were climbing in the Lost Creek area of the Red Rock Canyon Conservation ...
Everest, post-monsoon attempt on the north face. There was one post-monsoon expedition to the Tibetan side of Everest: three strong and highly experienced Spaniards, Alberto Inurrategi, Ferran Latorre, and Juan Vallejo, who had a total of at least...
Masherbrum, South Face Attempt. Our expedition endeavored to climb the South Face of Masherbrum (7821 meters), first climbed by a strong American team in 1960. Our team consisted of Tod Andersen, my brother Sean Moore, Bill Pierson, Dr. Doug Redos...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The main Club activities for the year 1962 were, of course, the Spring Ski Camp and the Summer Climbing Camp. The Ski Camp was held in the Little Yoho Valley with the Club’s Stanley Mitchell Hut as headquarters. Due to t...
Northern Selkirks. As an adjunct to the completion of the Alpine Club of Canada’s Great Cairn Cabin (north of Sir Sandford, 6 bunks) and the Fairy Meadow Cabin (12 bunks), Ben Ferris and I organized a few climbs last July. Don Sprecker, Rob Wallac...