Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton. On 26 June, William Pierce (21), Mike Mikell (30), Beverly Pierce (21), and Sandra Hendricks were descending the Ellingwood Couloir on the Middle Teton. Pierce was glissading and lost control. As h...


Book Reviews AAJ
Food in the Wilderness

Food In The Wilderness by George W. Martin and Robert W. Scott. Bremerton, Washington. 1963, 54 + 14 pages, about 60 line drawings. No price stated. This interesting booklet gives recipes for preparing many common plants and their products. Some o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K7 Attempt

K7 Attempt. Japanese led by Masayuki Hoshina made an attempt on K7 (6934 meters, 22,750 feet) by way of the 17,000-foot west col. They approached from Hushe via the Charakusa Glacier, where they established Base Camp on May 27. They fixed some 500...


Book Reviews AAJ
Viertausender

Viertausender, by Ernst Albert Heiniger. 15 pages of descriptive text and 96 full-page illustrations by the author. Zürich: Fretz & Wasmuth Verlag, 1942. Price, $4.80.Here are two very fine picture-books issued in Switzerland shortly after the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir, Winter Ascent

Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir, Winter Ascent. The Lowes — Dave, George, Greg, and Jeff — made a semi-successful winter ascent of the Black Ice Couloir-West Face combination on the Grand Teton. In two days of poor weather from Beaver Creek they re...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kangbachen Attempt

Kangbachen Attempt. Italian Dante Porta had hoped to climb Kangbachen by its northwest face solo. With several friends, he established Base Camp at 17,225 feet on April 20. With another member, he made Camp I at 18,375 feet on April 25 and returne...


Book Reviews AAJ
Alaska Wilderness

Alaska Wilderness, by Robert Marshall. Edited, with introductions by George Marshall, Forward by A. Starker Leoplold. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1970. 173 pages, 30 illustrations, 6 maps. Price $6.95.There are many people who develo...


Notes AAJ
United States, Cascades: Mt. Adams

Cascades: Mt. Adams. It is reported that Robert Craig and C. Molenaar, in September 1948, made a new route up the N. E. face of Mt. Adams.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori East-Ridge Attempt

Pumori East-Ridge Attempt. This two-man Japanese expedition came to an abrupt end on October 6 when the leader, Mikio Mitsuhata, was searching for the site of Camp II at 6000 meters. He was struck by a snow avalanche and fell 40 meters, fracturing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Dedo, Patagonia

Cerro Dedo, Patagonia. Cerro Dedo is in the region of Lago La Plata, north of the Northern Continental Icecap, and suffers from less bad weather than regions further south. The winds are usually high. Cerro Dedo (6625 feet; 40°50' S, 72°50' W) was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Yerupaja Sur, Furieux Mais Romantiques

Yerupaja Sur, Furieux Mais Romantiques. The participants on our expedition were Benoît Mont- fort, François Nadal, Julien Laurent, and I. Intending to open a route on the west face of Siula Chico, we left on foot from Llamac, arriving at base camp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Peak 6553m, Attempt, and Peak 6222m, Ascent

Peak 6553m, Attempt, and Peak 6222m, Ascent. Peak 6553m (a.k.a. Dibiboikri Nala) is an unclimbed peak on the Dibiboikri Glacier. A three-member British expedition led by Anthony Ewan Mecleran attempted it from September-October. However, only the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Bandar Punch

Bandar Punch. On 20 June 1950 the first ascent of Bandar Punch (20,720 ft.) was made by a party including a school principal, a major general, a teacher and a sergeant-instructor. Seven or eight attempts to climb the peak, which can be seen from M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Siulá Chico, West Face

Siulá Chico, west face. In May Spanish climbers Oriol Baró and Jordi Corominas made the first ascent of Siulá Chico’s (6,265m) sustained, difficult west face (900m, ED+ VI AI5+ A2). The pair carried a portaledge and haul bag, placed no bolts, and ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Rakaposhi Attempt on North Ridge

Rakaposhi, Attempt on North Ridge. It was obvious that an ascent to the north ridge from Minapin or Pisan would be too dangerous for a porter column but that a steep glacial valley led up from Jul Ghulmat directly to our north ridge. On September ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Tierra del Fuego, Monte Darwin, 1989

Monte Darwin, 1989. Our expedition had as members Takamori Kobayashi, Hiroaki Kino, Yoshiharu Sekino, Taijiro Maeda, Chilean Eduardo García and me as leader. We were a filming crew from TV-ASAHI of Tokyo. For the first of three months, we traveled...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, Wyoming, Tetons

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 31, 1987, Peter Froelicher (24) and Alicia Sams (23) attempted a one-day ascent of Teewinot via the East Face route. At 1345, both were climbing unroped at an elevation of 3500...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak

Broad Peak. On August 8, I was able to climb my fifth 8000er. I was accompanied by Mischa Saleki and Dr. Reinmar Joswig, a German living in Colombia, who had been a member of a big French expedition but joined us. Saleki had to turn back from the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Don Bosco, South Face Ascent and Ski Descent, 1991

Don Bosco, South Face Ascent and Ski Descent, 1991. Italian Tone Valeruz is well known for his extreme ski descents. On January 14, 1991, he made a new route solo on the south face of Don Bosco (2515 meters, 8251 feet), taking only three hours to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Everest Tragedy, North-Col Route

Everest Tragedy, North-Col Route. A Chilean expedition was composed of Claudio Lucero, leader, Rodrigo Jordan, Andrés Marambio, Pedro Bralic, Marcelo Gifferos, Fernando and Cristián Garcia-Huidobro, Pablo Straub and Victor Hugo Trujillo. They were...