British Columbia, Purcell Range, Commander Mountain. On 27 July David Jones, John Christian, Murray Foubister, and Jan Atlung (26) were attempting a new route on a rib of the NE face of Commander Mountain. David Jones led a rope pitch, anchored an...
Northeast Face, Squaretop. Layton Kor and I started our climb up a steepening slab system on the northwest face, between two converging couloirs. This section had about six leads, two of which had some quite difficult free moves protected by piton...
STRANDED ON WATERFALL ICEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pemeberton AreaOn December 22, 1990, three ice climbers were on a waterfall at Soo Bluffs. The leader, N.Z. (29), got to within about eight meters of the top of the pitch, and then was un...
Changi Tower Main Peak, Excess Baggage. Excess Baggage starts directly above Camp I at the base of a four-pitch, left-facing comer. (Camp I is at the base of the bottom tier of Changi Tower. Changi is two-tiered on its east face, with the bottom t...
FALL ON SNOW/ICEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibOn June 11, two climbers (36 and 39, US) died of injuries sustained during a fall while ascending the West Rib route. Though the origin of the fall was not witnessed, it is believed to have begun at ...
Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Heiko Irmisch, Rolf Steffens, Roland Köhler and I as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) by the east ridge, the route by which Austrians made th...
Peruvian Expeditions. César Morales Arnao reports an active year by Peruvian climbers. Among other climbs he reports the first ascent of Rajunta (17,586 feet), which is not far from Lima, May 28, by Alberto Morales Arnao, Segundo Villanueva, Juven...
Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. In March, China cancelled my Shisha Pangma permission and I obtained a permit for the northeast face of Manaslu. We were Jim Sutton and I from the United States and Spaniards Javier Iraola, Albino Quinteiro, José Melón...
Artesonraju. During July and August 1974, an Argentinian expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires was active in the Cordillera Blanca. Bad weather defeated several attempts to climb Alpamayo by both the north and south ridges. An attempt on Ar...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. 1983 was a trying year for this Section. After an acrimonious dispute over The American Alpine News, Lin Murphy resigned from the Section Chair and the Club. Director Sallie Greenwood also resigned. Their loss is sorely...
Note on record keeping for trekking peaks. The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism doesn’t keep any records on trekking peaks. The Gordoghan Zom I (6,240m) was climbed in 1965 by Munich section of German Alpine Club. There is no other record of further c...
Kanjeralwa Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Frenchmen Olivier Besson, leader, Guy Cousteix, Lukie Laurent and me from Spain. We were able to fly to the airstrip at Juphal, near Dunai. This lies only three or four days from Ringmo, the capit...
Tukuche Peak. Our members were Kazumi Fujikura, Hisao Miyazaki, Norio Shimoda and I as leader. We climbed Tukuche Peak by the normal route from the north followed by other expeditions. On April 1 we established Base Camp at 16,750 feet on the mora...
High Sierra Mountain Wonderland, by Wampler, Heald and McDermand. Privately published by Joseph Wampler, Box 45, Berkeley 1, Calif. 122 pages, illustrated. Price $2.00.Seldom has such a small book contained so much. The high country traversed by t...
Yukon ExpeditionThe National Geographic Society’s Yukon Expedition, led by Bradford Washburn of Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the spring of 1935, erased from the map of the world by aerial photography, about 2000 square miles of southwestern Yukon ...
East Horn, South Face, Tetons. In an unusual, late season climb, Hal Gribble and Paul Horton made a new route on the south face of the East Horn of Mount Moran on November 16. About four pitches of ice climbing up the right (north) side of Falling...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK, LIGHTNING, FEAR Idaho, City of Rocks, Elephant RockOn June 20, 1992, Lew Peterson (34) and Mark Parent (35) were climbing “Just Say No” (5.9) when the following accident happened. Peterson was belaying Parent, who h...
The Arizona Mountaineering Club. During the year 2000, the Arizona Mountaineering Club’s membership base reached 596. The club continued its traditional role as trainer of local rock climbers, as well as building its base in broader alpine pursuit...
Shisha Pangma. Our expedition consisted of Nobuo Teranishi, M. Hongu, T. Ishikawa, Yoshiyuki Tsuji, Kiyohiko Suzuki, M. Hamatani, H. Koike, Sinji Takamura, M. Fujita, T. Suda, H. Yamaha, H. Kojiri, N. Unno, K. Sato, R. Takahashi and me as leader. ...
Buni Zom, South Face. The Bernina Alpine Club Expedition was led by Masao Okabe and had five more members. They left Chitral on July 14 and began walking at Koghozi on the 16th. They went via Birmoha, Romen, Golen Gol, Chakholi, Bokht, Phargam An ...