Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Cerro Trinidad, Velebit

Cerro Trinidad, Velebit. This route was fun, but not as hard as others in this region. Ivica Matkovic and I were in the area for only a short time in January, and began with six days of constant rain. Nearing the end of our time limit, we decided ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, East Horn of Falling Ice Glacier

East Horn of Falling Ice Glacier (11,400). Traversed on July 31st by the writer. Ascent by south ridge; descent by east side.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Sierra Vilcabamba

Sierra Vilcabamba. On July 21 the Germans, Dolf Meyer and Martl Schiessler, climbed the Nevado Chamas Chico, which is over 16,500 feet, but had to turn back the next day on the Nevado Chamas Grande (19,350 feet). Meyer alone later climbed Coropuna.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge

Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. On May 31 Ron Frid, our helicopter pilot deposited Bruce Balderston, A1 Mathews, Dave Sweet and me and our gear at the foot of the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mount Logan. The ridge rises out of the Logan Glacier fro...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Arizona, Right Mitten

Right Mitten. In Monument Valley, Dan Langmade and Dave Insley climbed the Right Mitten (6 pitches, 5.9, A2). The route ascends the crack system beginning at the right edge of the Thumb.Eric Bjørnstad


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Purcell Range, Commander Mountain

British Columbia, Purcell Range, Commander Mountain. On 27 July David Jones, John Christian, Murray Foubister, and Jan Atlung (26) were attempting a new route on a rib of the NE face of Commander Mountain. David Jones led a rope pitch, anchored an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Wind River Range, Northeast Face, Squaretop

Northeast Face, Squaretop. Layton Kor and I started our climb up a steepening slab system on the northwest face, between two converging couloirs. This section had about six leads, two of which had some quite difficult free moves protected by piton...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded on Waterfall Ice, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pemberton Area

STRANDED ON WATERFALL ICEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pemeberton AreaOn December 22, 1990, three ice climbers were on a waterfall at Soo Bluffs. The leader, N.Z. (29), got to within about eight meters of the top of the pitch, and then was un...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakiston, Changi Tower Main Peak, Excess Baggage

Changi Tower Main Peak, Excess Baggage. Excess Baggage starts directly above Camp I at the base of a four-pitch, left-facing comer. (Camp I is at the base of the bottom tier of Changi Tower. Changi is two-tiered on its east face, with the bottom t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow/Ice, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Rib

FALL ON SNOW/ICEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibOn June 11, two climbers (36 and 39, US) died of injuries sustained during a fall while ascending the West Rib route. Though the origin of the fall was not witnessed, it is believed to have begun at ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Momhil Sar Attempt

Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Heiko Irmisch, Rolf Steffens, Roland Köhler and I as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) by the east ridge, the route by which Austrians made th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Peruvian Expeditions

Peruvian Expeditions. César Morales Arnao reports an active year by Peruvian climbers. Among other climbs he reports the first ascent of Rajunta (17,586 feet), which is not far from Lima, May 28, by Alberto Morales Arnao, Segundo Villanueva, Juven...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy

Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. In March, China cancelled my Shisha Pangma permission and I obtained a permit for the northeast face of Manaslu. We were Jim Sutton and I from the United States and Spaniards Javier Iraola, Albino Quinteiro, José Melón...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju

Artesonraju. During July and August 1974, an Argentinian expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires was active in the Cordillera Blanca. Bad weather defeated several attempts to climb Alpamayo by both the north and south ridges. An attempt on Ar...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. 1983 was a trying year for this Section. After an acrimonious dispute over The American Alpine News, Lin Murphy resigned from the Section Chair and the Club. Director Sallie Greenwood also resigned. Their loss is sorely...


Notes AAJ
Pakistan, Note on Record Keeping for Trekking Peaks

Note on record keeping for trekking peaks. The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism doesn’t keep any records on trekking peaks. The Gordoghan Zom I (6,240m) was climbed in 1965 by Munich section of German Alpine Club. There is no other record of further c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kanjeralwa Attempt

Kanjeralwa Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Frenchmen Olivier Besson, leader, Guy Cousteix, Lukie Laurent and me from Spain. We were able to fly to the airstrip at Juphal, near Dunai. This lies only three or four days from Ringmo, the capit...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tukuche Peak

Tukuche Peak. Our members were Kazumi Fujikura, Hisao Miyazaki, Norio Shimoda and I as leader. We climbed Tukuche Peak by the normal route from the north followed by other expeditions. On April 1 we established Base Camp at 16,750 feet on the mora...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Sierra Wonderland

High Sierra Mountain Wonderland, by Wampler, Heald and McDermand. Privately published by Joseph Wampler, Box 45, Berkeley 1, Calif. 122 pages, illustrated. Price $2.00.Seldom has such a small book contained so much. The high country traversed by t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Yukon Expedition

Yukon ExpeditionThe National Geographic Society’s Yukon Expedition, led by Bradford Washburn of Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the spring of 1935, erased from the map of the world by aerial photography, about 2000 square miles of southwestern Yukon ...