Yosemite Rock Climber SurveyRobin Ingraham, Jr.ONE HUNDRED FEET ABOVE THE ground, a climber dangles effortlessly on his rope. The whir of a power drill echoes in the mountain breeze as it cuts into the rock. By removing the “traditional” difficult...
Janet Bergman, Kirsten Kremer, and I loaded my 1991 Toyota van with two-and-a-half weeks of food and climbing gear and drove for 15 hours from New Hampshire to the tip of Nova Scotia, making the overnight ferry to Newfoundland with less than 30...
VLADIMIR BALYBERDIN 1949-1994Vladimir Balyberdin, age 45, the most famous Russian mountaineer of his generation, was killed in a traffic accident in St. Petersburg last summer. His sad death highlights the massive changes which have taken place si...
Access and the Politics of ClimbingA long-simmering stewby Michael Kennedy, President, The Access FundWhen the history of climbing in the United States in the last two decades of the 20th century is written, 1998 will likely go down as a watershed...
Ascent, by Jeremy Bernstein. New York: Random House, 1965. × + 124 pages, with illustrations. Price $3.95.The author is Associate Professor of Physics at New York University, and has written a formidable book on computers, The Analytical Engine. T...
Nalumasortoq, south-southwest face of Left Pillar, new route. At the end of June a four-member team from Spanish TV arrived in Greenland. We flew to Narssarssuaq and then Iñaki San Vicente and I paddled sea kayaks for eight days to the Tasermiut F...
Scottish Expedition to Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland. A University of St. Andrews party returned after an eleven-year interval to the mountainous shores of Tasermiut inlet at 60° N. In six weeks a total of 34 peaks were climbed, 32 of which wer...
The number of new routes reported in southwestern British Columbia has been declining since surging around 2002-2004. There are probably a number of reasons for this general decline, including the time since the last comprehensive guidebook was ...
K2: Challenging the Sky. Roberto Mantovani and Kurt Diemberger. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 144 pages. $35.00.Second only to Everest in height, K2 also has been subordinated in the attention it has received from writers and photographers. Tha...
Bandaka, Peaks above Darrah-i-Shahran, Mir Samir. The British Midlands Hindu Kush Expedition climbed first in the Bandaka region, where they made the following ascents: Koh-e-Ka-Safed (20,315 feet) on July 8 by K. Vickers, fourth ascent; Bandaka (...
Kwangde, North Face. Our expedition started with three members, José M. Cardero, Angel L. Muñoz and me, but Cardero was struck by a falling rock at the base of the wall, which broke his leg. He had to be carried by porters to Lukla. Our Base Camp ...
THOMAS A. MUTCH1931-1980Tim Mutch died on October 6, 1980, at the age of 49, while descending from the summit of Nun (23,412 feet) in northern India following a bivouac above 21,000 feet with two former students on an expedition which he initiated...
Minus 148°: The Winter Ascent of Mt. McKinley, by Art Davidson. New York: W. W. Norton & Company, Inc., 1969. 218 pages, 32 photographs. Price: $5.95.It is understandable, if not forgivable, that all expedition books tend to sound identical. T...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. As in previous years, club activities in 1979 were centered in the Chugach, Talkeetna, and Kenai Ranges. These ranges are virtually a stone’s throw from Anchorage, which makes them very accessible and convenient to v...
Mount FosterH. W. Tilman would have approved by Dan MannixI’m a Colorado Boy. The ocean is as foreign to me as the dark side of the moon. In Colorado we keep our water safely controlled with modem inventions like bathtubs and drinking glasses. Our...
Claudio Mandrini, Paolo Stopping Alberto Zanada, and I left Italy on November 28 for Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso). From here we traveled almost entirely on dirt routes 380km to Daari, where we stayed at the campground run by Salvador Campillo and hi...
Isla de los Estados, inland traverse. This island was discovered in 1615 by Le Maire and afterward visited by many explorers, including James Cook. Many ships have wrecked on its difficult coasts. Because of difficult terrain and bad weather, no o...
Andes, Chile. On January 28, 1954, Juan Harshein, Bion González, and Walter Bachmann of the Club Andino de Chile made the first ascent of Chachacoma (16,400 feet) in the Cordillera de la Serena. This ascent took place on a reconnaissance of a near...
Chopicalqui, Ulta, Contrahierbas, Cayesh, San Juan, Pucaraju. The New Zealand Andean Expedition climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from May to August. Members of the party were Maurice Conway, Stuart Allen, Steve Dawson, Oily McCahon, Trevor Caines,...
Amundsen Peak; island traverses; Mt Rendu. To commemorate Roald Amundsen’s team reaching the South Pole on December 14,1911, the Spirit of Sydney transported the Spirit of Amundsen International Expedition (mostly Norwegian), to the Peninsula to m...