RAPPEL ERROR – UNEVEN ROPES, FALL ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksOn May 21,I met my friend Dana B. in the West Trapps lot for a day of climbing in the Gunks. I’ve been climbing for over 15 years and have climbed all over the country; I’ve lead honest...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Mount Whitney, East FaceOn September 10, 1994, six climbers were on the East Face Route of Mount Whitney. Brad Berdoy (38) was leading the Fresh Air Traverse when he realized he was off ro...
The Centennial Climb on Mount VancouverJ. Vincent HoemanIn 1874 W. H. Dali and Marcus Baker of the U. S. Coast Survey named Mounts Cook and Vancouver from the sea, but somehow the names and elevations must have gotten scrambled, as they mapped Coo...
Ascents and Traverses in the Jallawaya Group. On October 10, the brothers Gregorio and Juan Mamani, both of the Club Andino Boliviano, and I set out from La Paz to climb in the area located south of Chachakumani and north of the Jichuquta Valley (...
LEWIS FROTHINGHAM CLARK1900-1991Lewis Frothingham Clark was born in Boston on October 29, 1900 and died on March 8, 1991 at the age of 90. The family moved to California when he was four years old. He was a member of the American Alpine Club for w...
MARY GODDARD POTTER1865-1943Dr. Potter, who died on January 13th, 1943, in her 79th year, was born in Barre, Mass. She was a graduate of Boston University and took her medical degree at New York University in 1903. She became a physical training t...
Spiti, Singekang Valley, Singekang (6,008m), attempt; Snaght Kang (5,500m), north ridge. In October and November six mountaineers from Ireland and the UK (Martin Boner, George Carlton, Sandra Kennedy, Alan Tees, Andrew Tees, and I) made an attempt...
FALL ON ROCK—FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION California, Sequoia National Park, Devil’s Crag #1On September 1, David Dykeman (64) and Herbert Buehler, members of the California Mountaineering Club, were descending from the summit of Devil’s Cr...
Glacier National Park, Various Ascents. Beginning in the winter of 1995-96, new ice routes have been discovered and climbed in Glacier National Park. The first area to be explored was the southwest face on Mt. Cannon. Kirby Spangler and Marc Vener...
Ganzi Tibetan Prefecture, Mt. Chola (6,148m), third ascent; correction to 1988 “Cheru” ascent and altitude. We made the third known successful ascent of Mt. Chola (Lat: 31° 48' 0", Long: 99° 7' 0") on July 22, 2003. Chola is located in western Sic...
Mounts Jeannette, Newton and, St. Elias. Our goal was to have been the long southeast ridge of Mount St. Elias, a sinuous, silver edifice that bursts from the Newton Glacier for 11,000 feet to meet the gentle summit cone. The plan was simple—to la...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26 at 1431, Australian climber John Sides (29), a member of the AUSPAT expedition, fell while descending the Rescue ...
Kangchenjunga, Ascents and Tragedy. On October 5, eight men from three teams set out without any bottled oxygen from their last campsites around 7800 meters, high on the plateau known as the Great Shelf on the southwest face. They included the Swi...
Midnight Rock, Curtains. Left of North Ramp, this route climbs orange lichen flakes followed by face moves, and finishes by moving around roof via horizontal finger traverse (5.10 c/d): Bob McDougall and Kjell Swedin. Frog Suicide. Right of Flame,...
Devils Tower. On June 7 Dave Ingalls and I climbed a new route, “Exit-Us,” on the Devils Tower. It has the same start as for the “Cave.” Pitch 1: Climb up crack and proceed diagonally right to a belay stance. Pitch 2: Climb crack above and nail 60...
Bustle Tower, Club International. Andreas Taylor and I (Canada) spent the month of July in the Cirque of the Unclimbables doing a bit of climbing and a lot of vegging. After a nauseating air drop of the majority of our gear into Fairy Meadows, bus...
Desert Towers: Fat Cat Summits and Kitty Litter Rock. Steve “Crusher” Bartlett. Sharp End Publishing, 2010. Color photos. Hardcover. $49.95.As climbers craving a fix, we accept almost any writing if we cannot get to the rock. A few sexy pictures a...
Snowpatch Spire, South Face, First Free Ascent. With true and conscious minds, Micah Jessup and I entered into the realm of the mighty Bugaboos, bent on exploring new pathways in the vertical world. After brewing in the rain for several days, atte...
The Not So Rotten RockiesThe Great Cambrian Cliffs of CanadaWilliam Lowell PutnamFOR GENERATIONS the mountaineering fraternity has referred to the rock quality of the Rocky Mountains of Canada in terms of somewhat less than admiration; and not wit...
Peter K. ScHOENiNG 1927-2004Pete Schoening died at his home on Lake Washington shortly after dawn. As the day lightened, a lone bald eagle made one slow circle at eye level just outside the window, then rose into the morning sky. It was the 51st a...