Nanda Devi East. Because of the closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the only access to Nanda Devi East is from outside the sanctuary. There were four expeditions to the mountain. Britons Julie-Ann Clyma and her husband Roger Payne hoped to climb ...
Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m). To celebrate the links between the Alpine Club and the Himalayan Club in the year of the AC’s 150th anniversary, Harish Kapadia organized an expedition to the Ka...
Pico Polaco, Attempt, and South Face of Mercedario. The Club Andino Mercedario of San Juan is one of the oldest and most active of the Argentine Mountain Clubs. This year they commemorated their 50th anniversary. A group of the club went to the Va...
Lucania and Steele. Kevin O’Connell, leader, Peter Cummings, Brad Nei- man, Peter Steele, Martin Zabaleta, Basque, and I were flown to the upper Chitina Glacier from Kluane Lake by Andy Williams on June 16. Our Base Camp was at 8500 feet and we pl...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Mt. ShuksanOn July 18, 1980, Dick Sawyer (48) died in a fall while climbing Mt. Shuksan with eight other members of the Mazamas. The party was not roped. The climbing party had reached the Fi...
Moab. On a 25-meter varnished slab in Sevenmile Canyon 100 meters northeast of the 18-mile marker on US 13 Richard Pietro and I put up two very enjoyable face climbs. Petticoat Gumption (5.9) used one drilled angle placed from stances. Five weeks ...
Mt. Foraker, first winter solo. On day 39 of my expedition, I stood atop Mt. Foraker. It was March 10, 2007, at 5:03 p.m. The temperature was -50°F, with 20-30 knot winds, making a wind chill of almost -100°F. I only stayed for 10 minutes, but thi...
Climbs in the La Lung and Ringor Valleys, Ladakh, 1980. In July 1980 Mike Tait, Dick Price and I travelled up the Suru River and set up a Base Camp in the La Lung valley at the point opposite the junction of the main La Lung Glacier with a side gl...
Kang Guru Attempt. A German expedition of eight unsuccessfully attempted to reach the northwest ridge of Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by its west face. They had three high camps. The leader Bernhard Scherzer and Peter Brill reached 20,350 ...
P 7500+ (“Werewolf”), Anenome Buttress, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Klaus Geisswinkler and I were flown by Doug Geeting to the Ruth Gorge. On the 6th and 7th, we climbed on a rock face on the west side of the gorge but had to give up the attempt becau...
Annapurna Winter Attempt. Two Japanese climbers, Yoshitomi Okura and Masaaki Kukushima, found in their attempt on the French 1950 route on Annapurna that climbing alone without a fixed rope was more than they could manage on difficult ground swept...
Zarya Vostoka, First Ascent and Traverse, and Chorku Peak, First Ascent. There is still a part of the Pamir that remains practically terra incognita for mountaineers: the eastern part of Zaalaisky Range, which has several peaks over 6000 meters. T...
On December 30, Jay Jensen and I made a one-day new route up this 1500-foot pillar. At five A.M. we left the valley floor in unusually mild winter conditions, using four-wheel drive to reach a roadhead at 9000 feet. By the time we began technical ...
Storm Point (10,100). Traversed on August 13th, by Ranger Frank Smith and the writer. Climbed from east and north; descent made toward west and southwest into Cascade Canyon. The sharp needle between Storm Point and Symmetry Spire was also traversed.
Shishapangma. Our Swiss expedition was organized and led by Markus Itten. The others were Peter Bärtsch, Henrik Rhyn, Marcel Rüedi, Hansruedi Staub, Peter Weber, Diego Wellig, Stefan Wömer and I. We got to Base Camp at 5100 meters on September 7. ...
First Ascents, 1991-1993. Aside from some pleasant repeats with Chilean climbers, I made several first ascents in the upper Río Negro and Río Colorado basins in Central Chile. Isolated and with only medium-sized peaks, these areas seldom attract v...
Cordillera Blanca. Dr. Duane Ewers made two ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, the exact identification of which is not altogether certain. With François Mégard of the French Embassy in Lima, and the Peruvian porter, Eugenio Angeles, he climbed a p...
Phantom Pinnacle, Center. In early May 1965, after several futile starts, Joe Faint and I made a new route up the center of Phantom Pinnacle. We began from a large ledge at the bottom of the face. A short section of direct aid brought us to a thin...
Pacokeuta, South Face. It was reported that Marite Perez (Venezuela), Harold Shoemaker (Holland) and guide Juan Villarroel made the first ascent of a direct route on the South Face of Pacokeuta (5520 meters). The 350- meter route sported snow clim...
Elephants Perch, Southwest Face, Sawtooth Range. On August 9, 1977, Ried Dowdle and I completed a very fine route on the prow of the “perch”, where it turns from a south into a west face. The route follows the large corner system located on the pr...