Redoubt Volcano to Double Peak, Chigmit Ski Traverse. Following a six-day delay, due to weather, Al Curtis of Alyeska Air Service landed our party in a low pass at 3500 feet, northwest of Redoubt. We were Steve Hackett, leader, John Samuelson, Hel...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR KNOT FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn July 2, 1989, two climbers were beginning to rappel down the Rundle Ridge area of Mount Rundle. The first climber started rappelling using a mechanical brakin...
A newcomer to the fold of Mountain Clubs is the “Dolomite Club” of Winnipeg, founded about a year ago by a group of enterprising members of the American and Canadian Alpine Clubs resident there. Not being blessed with anything higher than a haysta...
Satopanth Tragedy. Indians hoped to climb Satopanth from the north. Dr. Minoo Mehta, Nandu Paghe and a high-altitude porter were buried in an avalanche on May 21 when they were resting in their tents at Camp II at 6000 meters. Leader Bharat Manghr...
Menlungtse, Attempt, and Milarepa, Ascent. We arrived at the upper meadows of the Menlung Valley beneath the north face of Menlungtse on September 3. We set up Base Camp (4900m) in the normal monsoon weather of clear mornings followed by rain in t...
Everest, First Ascent by a French Woman. This expedition was intitiated by Marc Batard, who hoped to climb Everest by the normal South Col route, spend the night on the summit and to climb Lhotse by the normal route the next day. With this in mind...
Shisha Pangma. Six of a nine-man American party ascended Shisha Pangma in the first week of May by the northeast face, the original 1964 Chinese route. It was the second ascent by Americans and the ninth ascent. The party consisted of Jerry Clayto...
La Conquête du Fitz-Roy, by M. A. Azéma. 8vo., 225 pages, with 16 photographs, maps, diagrams, and sketches. Paris: Flam- marion, 1954. Price, 600 Fr. francs.The ascent of Fitz-Roy in 1952 ranks with the great A1pine north-face climbs of the 1930’...
Lhotse, South Face Attempt. The nine-man Japanese Kanagawa Mountaineering Federation Expedition was led by Ryohei Uchida, supported by Mitsuo Hiroshima and Maruhisa Sunagawa. They failed to climb the steep rock south face of Lhotse. The highest po...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During 1955, members of the Rocky Mountain Section gathered for three pleasant evenings to meet distinguished mountaineering guests. In March we were privileged to hear Professor Noel E. Odell review some of his cli...
Antisana Sur, South Face, 1993. The south face of Antisana’s splendid southern peak (5580 meters, 18,307 feet) is an unstable rock wall, crowned by loose ice and snow. At the end of December, 1993, six Quito climbers, Oswaldo Alcócer, Peter Ayarza...
SLIP ON SNOW, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Disappointment PeakOn August 4, 1991, at 1445, Kent Fortner (22) and Thomas George (20) were attempting to climb Disappointment Peak via the east couloir above Amphitheater Lake. Approximately half way ...
FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River Gorge, Roadside CragOn November 20, a climber (age unknown) on Ro Shampo (5.12a) “smashed” their belayer into the boulder below the climb because they forgot to unclip the belay end of the rope after cleaning bolt #...
The Arctic Grail: The Quest for the North West Passage and the North Pole, 1818-1909. Pierre Berton. Viking, New York, 1988. 672 pages, illustrations, maps, bibliography. $24.95.Pierre Berton, Canada’s sixty-eight-year-old popular historian, bring...
Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. In July, Mike Woolridge, Rob Pease, Campbell Mercer and Matt Walsh were active in Little Switzerland. In their notes to the Denali climbing rangers, they reported the following ascents. North Troll, an eight-pi...
Cho Oyu. An Australian expedition led by Rick White made the 68th ascent by the normal route when Michael Groom reached the top of Cho Oyu on May 22. They then made an unsuccessful attempt on the north buttress, reaching 6800 meters on May 22.Eliz...
In October 2008 José Maria Alvarez, Antonio Fernandez, and Josue Roibal, all from the Spanish island of Mallorca, flew via Nepalgunj to Talcha (2,748m, three hours walk from Rara Lake), and trekked via Mugu to the Kojichuwa Valley (possibly also r...
Jannu, north face attempt. The all-star team of Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the north face of 7,710m Jannu but were defeated at around 7,100m by the storms and heavy snow fall that plagued the Kangchenj...
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison FallsOn November 23, a party of two were beginning the rappel descent of this waterfall route (180m, V, WI4). On their third rappel, the first climber got part...
Changabang (6,864m), north face attempt. The Korean Changabang North Face Expedition was led by Chung Seong-kwon and had as members Ha Ho-sung, Kim Ji-sung, Lee Keun-tak, and Lee Min-sook. They arrived at base camp (4,600m) on May 3, established a...