Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Cerro San Enrique, P 5650, Cerro Bengala

Cerro San Enrique, P 5650, Cerro Bengala. In July, Thomas Miyagawa and I made basecamp at the Malla Chuma Mine at 4800 meters and from there climbed three surrounding peaks. The first was Cerro San Enrique (5620 meters), which we climbed on July 1...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Altitude Medicine and Pathology

High Altitude Medicine and Pathology. Donald Heath and David Reid Williams. Butterworths, 1989. London, 352 pages. $95.00.The authors are senior pathologists, well traveled in the mountains of Asia and South America, and authorities in the patholo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, Leaning Tower, Wet Denim Daydream

Leaning Tower, Wet Denim Daydream. In the summer, Darly Hatten and I climbed this variation of the Harding route. It involves five pitches of overhanging aid up to A3. Begin on the left end of Awahnee Ledge nailing in a white curving dihedral, and...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton, No Cumbre, No Ruta

Middle Teton, No Cumbre, No Ruta. On July 14, Alex Lowe and I climbed No Cumbre, No Ruta (WI5 M7 A0, 240 m) on the north face of the Middle Teton. From the Lower Saddle, approach the north face as you would for the Goodrich Chimney and/or the Jack...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Belay, Inadequate Protection, Exceeding Abilities, Miscommunications, Oregon, Blue River, Flagstaff Climbing Area

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, MISCOMMUNICATIONS Oregon, Blue River, Flagstaff Climbing AreaOn September 17, 1994, I (Katie Mynes-Petty, 35) was third to climb the route “Deep Pockets.” A top rope was s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, Utah, Zion, The Temptress, Ascent, Previously Unreported

The Temptress, Ascent, Previously Unreported. In April, 1998, while exploring one of Zion’s many backcountry canyons, Andrew Nichols and I stumbled onto a gem of a wall. “The Temptress” is 800 feet tall, sleek, sheer, and straight as a rail. From ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, New York, Shawangunks, Shockley's Ceiling

FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE New York, Shawangunks, Shockley’s CeilingOn September 6, 1996, Robyn Williams (19) and I—Sean Hartman (21)—were climbing the classic climb Shockley’s Ceiling (5.6) at the Gunks. I had been climbing for about six months, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Range, Goldenhorn, Northeast Arête

Goldenhorn, Northeast Arête. August 8 Jim Walseth and I climbed this buttress. From Snowy Lakes the arête was gained by descending one of the many couloirs which exist on the Goldenhorn-Tower barrier. Following the obvious line of the ridge, eithe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, California, Yosemite Valley

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 19, Jeff Drinkard (18) and Steve Larson (19) were climbing the Royal Arches route. On the 15th pitch, they unroped for a 4th class section. When they came to the last pitch, a 5.4 f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Pilot Knob, South Face

Pilot Knob, South Face. This rounded but steep 600-foot dome at the northwest end of Grave Lake rises at the edge of the trail: one can literally rope there. In 1966 Jerry Fuller and I climbed to the final ledge on the south face, using 52 pitons ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Grand Teton, West Face of the Enclosure

Grand Teton, West Face of the Enclosure. For those acquainted with the esoterica of the Grand Teton, one of the most interesting regions lies west and north of the Enclosure, the high point west of the Upper Saddle. Two features had attracted my e...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table IV, Comparison of Injury Rates in Selected Sports, Rates are per 1000 Contact Periods

TABLE IVComparison of Injury Rates in Selected Sports Rates Are Per 1000 Contact PeriodsInjury ratesInjury ratesSkiing (1)5.90WinterMountaineeringIce Hockey6.811955 Report0.98Track1.761958-62 National Parks† 2.70Basketball1.31College Sports (2)Swi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, No Belay, Inexperience, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Thompson Creek Area

FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Thompson Creek AreaOn August 14, 1981, a party of four backpackers were climbing through steep cliff bands when one member of the party experienced difficulty in climbing a section of r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu

Makalu. On May 21 I succeeded in climbing Makalu* (27,825 feet) with Nawang Tenzing, one of our Sherpa expedition members. Our Austrian-German-Nepalese expedition had three Sherpas as full members but no high-altitude Sherpa porters. Already on Ma...

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| Published 1978 | Author Kurt Diemberger


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Talkeetna Range

Talkeetna Range. On October 1 my wife Grace and I made the first ascent of “Hoary Peak” (6057 feet), an important landmark mountain, highest in the Willow Creek drainages. We had walked in ten miles from the Craigie Creek road the day before and m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Biale, Baltoro Karakoram

Biale, Baltoro Karakoram. Our expedition consisted of Fumiyoshi Shigematsu, Tokiyoshi Kimura, Chitose Okada, Mikio Hamada, Tadanori Ochiai and me as leader. Base Camp was on the right bank of the Baltoro Glacier near the junction of the Mustagh Gl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Pisco West, Southwest Face

Pisco West, Southwest Face. Gustavo Montalvo and Alejandro Pérez Rayon (México) made a possible first ascent on the southwest face of Pisco West. Pinches de Güey (TD, 90° mixed, 60-70° snow) involved six pitches with 50-meter ropes and was climbed...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Tiquimani

Tiquimani. A South African expedition, led by D. Robert Reinecke and composed of Harold Hill, Dr. Robin Sandell, Nicholas Coetzee, Donald Good, Malcolm Griffin and the Chilean Germán H. Mills, climbed in the Cordillera Real. Their first objective ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Shah Fuladi, Western Hindu Kush

Shah Fuladi, Western Hindu Kush. After their try to climb Tirich Mir, (see above), the Tokai University group went to climb Fuladi Shah (16,862 feet), 90 miles west of Kabul. From Bamiyan they drove an hour by jeep up the Fuladi valley and continu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Peaks at Head of Pech Valley, Nuristan

Peaks at head of Pech Valley, Nuristan. After attempts to get permission to climb in Pakistan had failed, the Afghan embassy in Washington was approached about climbing in the Hindu Kush and they encouraged our plans. The expedition, which consist...