Wheeler Crest, Big Gray Pinnacle. In November, I joined a visiting French climber, David Belden, in making the first ascent of this 1000-foot tower by a prominent dihedral on the east face. The climbing was mostly in cracks and chimneys with a F10...
In the French Valley of Torres del Paine National Park, Sebastian Muñoz (Colombian) and I established Anarquía Vertical on a previously virgin formation, El Cuchillo (the Knife; ca 2,000m), located on the southern flank of La Espada (the Sword). O...
Cloudveil Dome (12,000). East-to-west traverse on July 21st, by Anderson Hilding and the writer. Continuing westward, a traverse was made of the ridge extending from Cloudveil Dome to the South Teton, and five additional minor summits were visited.
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn October 27, 1988, Francis Walters (age unknown) fell six meters to the ground while leading Orfan (5.9). He was three meters above his protection when he ...
Shishapangma. An Italian commercial expedition led by Renato Moro climbed Shishapangma on May 16 when Giuliano De Marchi and Moro reached the summit. Storms prevented the other members of the expedition from getting to the top.
California—Yosemite: (1) On October 25, 1952 a party composed of Bill Long, Dick Long, Al Steck and William Dunmire (22) set out to attempt an ascent of the El Capitan Buttress (east of the main face). Steck and Dunmire were the first rope of two,...
Guane-Guane, Lauca National Park. Fritz J. Hausmann, Chilean Gastón Oyarzún and I departed Arica on September 7 and paused at Putre for the night. The next three days were spent acclimating at Parinacota village. On September 10,we climbed Guane-G...
Peruvian Clubs. The Club Andino Peruano was founded on December 12 in Lima. The directors are presided over by Robert Stern. I am acting as secretary. (Until now, the Club Andinista Cordillera Blanca has been the most prominent Peruvian club. It i...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHER, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Sundance ButtressOn September 6, Richard Jakush (42) and Bill Oswald were climbing Bonzo, a 5.10 route on Sundance Buttress. Jakush was leading the st...
Yebokangal Ri and Porong Ri, Ascents. We were Reinier Zuidhoff, leader; Hans Van Der Meulen, Wilco Van Rooijen, Cas Van De Gevel (all Dutch), Thierry Schmitter (F) and Marko Prezelj (SLO). Schmitter and I planned to climb a new route on the south ...
Dolmalari. While making two pilgrimage circumabulations of unclimbed Kailas in western Tibet, I made an apparent first ascent of a non-technical peak above the Dolma La, a pass shown as 18,600 feet on most maps. Although my altimeter readings were...
Climbing Activity in Zion National Park. The climbing seasons of 1995 were affected by heavy spring rains, the typical scorching hot summer, and Peregrine Falcon closures. Many of Zion's cliffs are closed from February to July 15 for their breedin...
STRANDED, FATIGUE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley“Expedition McKinley” a group from France, spent the night of May 10, 1992, at 17,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley, without a stove. A stove had ...
“P 6400*” (P5969). Tapovan is a normally a beautiful Base Camp with grass and water. After we arrived on May 2, unusually heavy and continuous snowfall turned it into a torture from the start. The days went by and every morning we had to remove th...
New Routes in Chamonix: North Faces of Grands Charmoz and Grand Pilier d’Angle. During the Rassemblement International, Americans did some fine climbs in the Chamonix region. Steve Zajchowski and I were the representatives of the American Alpine C...
Diran. Two successful climbs of Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) have been reported in 1991. An Italian expedition was led by Martino Moretti. Moretti, D. Deianna and P. Paglino took six days to ascend the north ridge. The ridge rises 2200 meters ...
Yosemite Climbing. Interest in Yosemite climbing seems to be growing internationally. There were three ascents of the El Capitan Nose, one by a two-man French team. Later in the season a group of British climbers, including Don Whillans, arrived f...
Bhagirathi III (6,454m), direct southwest pillar, Stairway to Heaven. From the summit of Shivling in 1996 I saw the challenge: to find a direct route on the ridge of Bhagirathi III, because the southwest pillar route by the Scottish team of 1982 d...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The year 1974 was a weird one for the weather in British Columbia. Record snow packs were followed by a summer which didn’t arrive until August, but which pushed warm weather through into November. Our spring ...
Cerro San Enrique, P 5650, Cerro Bengala. In July, Thomas Miyagawa and I made basecamp at the Malla Chuma Mine at 4800 meters and from there climbed three surrounding peaks. The first was Cerro San Enrique (5620 meters), which we climbed on July 1...