Various ascents and attempts. In May 2002 Tim Connelly and I guided an American Alpine Institute group in the St. Elias Range.Paul Claus of Ultima Thule flew us to an unnamed glacier cirque south of the Goat Creek Glacier and north of the Bagley I...
Suganbashi, East Face. Sixth place in the Russian Climbing Championships was the team from North Osetin (S. Egorini, leader, I. Afanacev, V. Ivanov) which climbed the right side of the east face of Suganbashi (6A) in the Suran range of the Caucuse...
Cayambe, Cordillera Oriental. Four local university students, N. Dueñas, A. Holguín, S. Rivadeneira and R. Sáenz made an ascent of Nevado Cayambe (18,993 feet) via the Punta Jarrín on March 20. Four days later, the ascent was repeated by F. Chirib...
Mount Harrison. On July 12 my brother David and I were flown onto the Donjek Glacier. We spent the next 36 days at and above our Base Camp (10,200 feet) a half mile west-southwest of the Walsh Col and eight miles south-southeast of Mount Steele. D...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE OF NUTWest Virginia, Seneca RocksOn June 5, 1983, Brian Garrity was leading out on the first pitch of Conn’s East (5.4) when he got off route and found himself on much harder rock, somewhere in the vi...
Wisconsin Hoofers Mountaineers. The influx of a large number of new people made for numerous and varied climbing activities in 1961. L. Fowler was a member of the group that made the first ascent of the Northeast (Pioneer) Ridge of Mount McKinley....
Qomolungma (Everest) Reconnaissance. Our objective during April was to take stock of the technical and material problems we would have to solve for the expedition of our military high-mountain group to Qomolungma (Everest) in the spring of 1981 an...
Slesova, Fiamma d’Oriente, Second Ascent. Three weeks after the establishment of the Fiamma d’Oriente by an Italian group (see above), the route was repeated by I. Pekhterev (leader), D. Vlaznev, I. Vlaznev, V. Kazartsev and V. Lavrenenko in six a...
Fabulous Destinations, by John Nicholls Booth, xii+239 pages.New York: Macmillan, 1950. Price, $3.50.Fabulous Destinations describes the post-war wanderings of an amazing man: John Nicholls Booth is a skilled journalist, a nationally known magicia...
Aniversario, Hampaturi Range. Aniversario (c. 17,250 feet), the northernmost peak of the Hampaturi range, falls off steeply on the north and east into the Yungas, while the southern and western sides, separated from the other peaks in the range by...
Cerro Mano del Diablo, 1987. On January 18, 1987, French climbers Bertrand Doligez and Jean-Louis Hourcadette made the first ascent of Cerro Mano del Diablo in the Balmaceda group in southern Patagonia. They approached from Puerto Natales in a coa...
FALL ON ROCK, WEATHERNew Hampshire, Owl’s Head CliffOn May 12, 1985, the New Hampshire MRS responded to a call for a rescue of a fallen climber on Owl’s Head Cliff. They arrived and after a four hour search in the rain, were not able to find the v...
Le Ande by Mario Fantin. Milano: Club Alpino Italiano, 1979. 142 pages of Italian text, 69 black-and-white photographs, 53 maps.Les Andes du Pérou, au coeur de la Cordillère Blanche by Nicolas Jaeger, Paris: Denoël, 1979. 172 pages in French, nume...
An Italian expedition was led by Giuseppe Cazzaniga and composed of Gianni Merlini, Ambrogio Rigamonti, Carlo Bonfanti and Massimiliano Chiolo. They made some five first ascents, the highest of which was of 5693 feet. They failed to climb their...
Colorado: Red Rocks, near Denver. On 26 May 1949 Jennie Akers, on a hiking trip with three companions, was climbing the east face of Creation Rock. She lost her head scarf and, upon reaching for it, fell. Examination disclosed a broken left arm an...
From June 8 to 10 two Spaniards, Eloi Callado and Joan Sole, and I traversed the twin summits of Nevado Rurec (5,696m) from the east. We originally wanted to climb the south side of Huantsan from a base camp beneath the southeast face, which we ...
Cho Oyu. Our expedition was made up of leader Lluis Belvis, Emili Civis, Toni Llasera, Carlos Vallés and me, Catalans, Jean Clémenson, French, and Tsambu Tamang, Karma Sherpa and Nima Dorje Tamang, Nepalese. We established Base Camp on August 22 a...
Nevado Copa, South Ridge. From June 13-16, an expedition led by Valerio Bertoglio, with UIAGM guides Fabrizio Manoni, Enrico Rosso, Miguel Martinez, and me headed toward Camp Lejiacocha at the base Nevado Copa (6,188m) to attempt the first ascent ...
Mount Hubbard, Southwest Ridge. Bruce Tickell, Skip Edmonds, Bill Lokey and John Schutt made a fine new route on Mount Hubbard. After landing in late May on the Hubbard Glacier at 4000 feet, they spent a week getting their equipment the twelve mil...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AndromedaThe night of July 1, 1989, John (25) and Robert (33) bivouacked near the lower icefall of the Andromeda Glacier. At 0430 on July 2, they began ascending the ...