High Altitude Medicine and Physiology. Michael P. Ward, James S. Milledge and John B. West. University of Pennsylvania Press, Philadelphia, 1989. 515 pages. $89.95.As the golden age of Himalayan climbing climaxes, it’s not surprising to find apara...

Mount Watkins, South Face, Hook, Line, and Sinker. In May Mike Munger, Steve Larsen and I finished the second route on Watkins’ south face. From the top of the 800-foot, left-hand buttress, the first technical pitches gain the left-tending ramps t...

Watch Tower, South Buttress, First Free Ascent. Last August, John Merriam and I did the first free ascent of the South Buttress (IV 5.11b R) of the Watch Tower in the Wind River Range.Jonathon Copp

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE, POOR POSITION— ATTEMPTED SHORT-CUT Oregon, Mount Jefferson, Southwest RidgeOn August 6, 1994, Gabriella Klassen (43), along with three others in her party, was descending the Southwest ridge after hav...

Kolob Canyon, Paria Point, Experimental Earth, Previously Unreported. In September, 1998, Jim Bridwell, Ron Olevsky and I climbed Experimental Earth (V 5.10 A3, ten pitches) on the south side of Paria Point. The route follows the continuous crack ...

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK and INADEQUATE PROTECTION,and ONE HORNET ATTACKNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksOf the 18 incidents reported form the Shawangunks in 1996, twelve were the result of leader falls, with six of those exacerbated by inadequa...

Phantom III and Phantom II. On August 2 Gary Brill, Carl Skoog and I climbed these two minor 7960-foot peaks. Note: They are located .6 of a mile south of Sinister Peak, on the Sinister-Blizzard barrier. (NCCS I, F4.)Gordy Skoog, Unaffiliated

EXPOSURE, BAD WEATHER, STRANDED California, Sierra NevadaDr. Reed Boswell (55) and Scott Jackson (16) spent the day of June 16 climbing Clyde Couloir. Near the top they either became stranded or were caught by nightfall. During the night a storm d...

Wind River Peak, New Route on the North Buttress. Late in August, Jim Stoddard and I climbed a gully from the basin west (Black Joe Lake approach) to the notch which separates the final section of Wind River Peak from “Little El Cap” and points no...

Iowa Mountaineers’ Sawtooth Outing. During August the Iowa Mountaineers had their fourth outing in the Sawtooth Range. A number of new routes were made. Jim Kolocotronis, Michael Coriden, Bob Christianson, and Bob Lipshultz made a new variation up...

TABLE IIIEstimated Accident and Mortality Rates for Snow and Ice Climbing and Rock ClimbingNumber of climbersInjuries per 1000 Deaths per 1000 registered climbers registered climbersSnow and ice6,2413.86 0.48Rock30,1342.72 0.76It is interesting th...

FALL ON ROCK, STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Deltaform MountainOn Monday, July 27, 1981, a party of two set out to climb the Lowe-Jones couloir on the north face of Deltaform Mountain. As the leader was attempting the exit ...

Kanchenjunga, Attempt on the Middle Summit. A Spanish expedition, led by Josep Piera, was granted permission for Yalung Kang. Instead they followed up the Polish route on Kanchenjunga to Camp III on the Great Shelf, using the Polish fixed lines. F...

P 8849, Talkeetna Mountains. On May 2 Chuck McLaughlin and I found ourselves on an unnamed glacier northwest of P 8849, the highest point of the Talkeetna Mountains (“Sentry Peak”). Pilot Bob Wood’s disappearance had severed our connection with ci...

Chogolisa Southwest. There are two summits southwest of Chogolisa which rise to about 7000 meters or 22,966 feet. The western-most one, about two miles from Chogolisa, was climbed by a 13-man Japanese party led by Hiroaki Akiyama by its northwest ...

Churup, Northwest Face, Primorska Smer. On July 11, Simon Markocic, Vasja Kosuta, Borut Golja and I established a new route, Primorska Smer (V+ A0 80°, 500m), on the northwest face of Churup (5493m). We started at 2 a.m. from a base camp at the la...

Peruvian National Andean Climbing Convention. This convention took place in Huaraz in late July and early August. It was officially sponsored by the Ministry of Public Education and organized by the head of the Sección de Andinismo, Physical Educa...

Shah-i-Anjuman (Peak X). The Ogaki expedition was headed by Yoshihiko Muto and consisted of Sakio Takagi, Yasua Takagi, Seiyo Hayashi, Osamu Sakuma, Susumu Inukai, Nobuo Kawai, Dr. Kosei Segawa and Yoshio Ando. After crossing the Anjuman Pass to A...

Hindu Raj. The city of Teramo expedition had nine members: Carlo A. Pinelli, leader; Luigi Barbuscia, Bruno Marsili, Enzo Camilleri, Pietro Guj, Franco Cravino, Mario Popriore, Mario Mancini and Luigi Muzii. They climbed in the Hindu Raj on the bo...

Boulder Canyon. In the Wall Of Winter Warmth area on the Berlin Wall, right of The Iron Curtain, Bob Horan climbed Blitzkrieg (80 feet 5.11d), a steep face and overhang. The climb had been pre-protected by Dan Hare. On Blob Rock, Harrison Dekker t...