A.A.C., Oregon Section. During the year the Oregon Section conducted several meetings. The most important was a dinner meeting to discuss reorganization and general business of the Section. Announcements were mailed out for various other functions...

Rainbow Wall, The Big Payback. Tony Sartin, Dave Evans, and I started The Big Payback (5.10 A3, 11 pitches) in April, 1997. We climbed four pitches of the route, then came back the following year (1998) to finish, which we did in April. The route ...

Borkoldoy Region of the Central Tien Shan, Kirghizstan. A mountaineering and trekking group of five Russians and six British (Marion Elmes, Mike Parsons, Larry Hootton, Jane Sanderson, Alan Martley and I) spent three weeks exploring the Borkoldoy ...

Mount Logan, Removal of Arctic Institute of North America Cache. The Arctic Institute of North America decided in 1983 to remove its cache from what had been its 17,500-foot laboratory on Mount Logan. Anne Brearly, Mike Gillingham, Bob Saunders, M...

AVALANCHEWashington, Mt. BakerOn June 7, 1980, four rope teams—a total of nine people—were involved in an avalanche at the 10,700-foot level of Mt. Baker on the Roman Wall. They were carried down 400-500 feet and Carl McGrath (40) suffered a fract...

Mount Buni-Zom, North Ridge, Attempt. Our Academic Alpine Club of Hokkaido Buni-Zom Peak Expedition, 1995, was composed of Kiyokatsu Saito, leader, Kazushige Honda, Kentarou Tanaka, Osamu Sanpei, Toru Shimizu and Satoru Henmi. We left Chitral on J...

“Mother Lode” (P 7905), Northeast Ridge. Located ¾ mile west of Crescent Mountain, “Mother Lode” presents good climbing possibilities. My brother Carl and I climbed its northeast ridge on June 16. Late-season snow made travel easy. We gained the r...

DeLong Mountains, exploration. In August Craig Deutche, Anne Machung, Jerry Weidler, and I established a new route across the DeLong Mountains from Howard Pass to Desperation Lake. We were studying the landscapes and ecology of Petroleum Reserve n...

Petermanns Bjerg, Ascents. On June 11, Paul Walker landed a climbing party on an unnamed glacier beneath the unclimbed north face of Petermanns Bjerg (2933m) at 73°N in Fraenkels Land. The group established Base Camp and began their assault on as ...

Cerro Blanco. Steve Grossman, Peter Noebels and I made a new route on the western portion of the broad south face of this gigantic rock formation on January 1. The peak can be seen from the rural town of Peñón Blanco. The pillar is to the left of ...

Mt. McKinley, Canadian Direct. On the south face of Mt. McKinley, from May 28-30, the prolific young Quebec climbers Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon established The Canadian Direct (8,000/4,000' new, Alaska Grade 6, 5.9 M6 AI4), in 58 hou...

Parcha Kangri, 1980. An expedition of five men and five women from Tokyo, led by Noriaki Nagakawa, made Base Camp at 15,900 feet at Larsi on August 10, 1980. They all climbed Gulep Kangri by its north ridge on the 13th. Nagagawa, Jun’ichi Keino an...

Himlung Attempt. A joint expedition of 15 Japanese and three Nepalese was led by Teizo Yoshino. They attempted the northeast ridge of still unclimbed Himlung (7126 meters, 23,380 feet) from the southeast, the same route attempted by the Japanese i...

Foraker and Barrille. A full article on remarkable new routes on the southeast ridge of Foraker and the east face of Barrille appear earlier in this Journal.

Cho Oyu. A four-man Japanese expedition led by Ken Kanazawa climbed the normal route on Cho Oyu. With this climb, the Japanese have now climbed all the 8000ers, the second nation to do so after Germany. They had three high camps. On October 3 Mits...

Mukut Parvat East, First Ascent. A Korean team made an important and difficult first ascent in July and August when Oksun Hong led an expedition to Mukut Parvat East (7130m). Two members of the team reached the summit. The team accessed the peak t...

Annapurna. The first Spaniards to reach the main summit of Annapurna were two members of this eight-member expedition, leader Josep María Maixe and Rafael López, who went to the top on October 8. They climbed the north face east of the Dutch rib, ...

Nun Attempt. Paul Clark, Ted Kerasote, Larry McDonnell, Doug Rovira and I attempted the Czech ridge of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) from June 19 to July 5. Climbing alpine-style and without Sherpas, we were about to begin our summit bid when a s...

Khan Tengri, North Face, Variation. From August 2-13, a team from Nizhniy Tagil comprising Vadim Popovich (leader), Yuri Ermachek, and Alexander Korobkov climbed the north face of Khan Tengri via a combination of various 6B routes: those of B. Stu...

Aconcagua, the 1988-1989 Season. Although Aconcagua is ascended all year round, most mountaineering, particularly for foreigners, takes place in December and January. In this summer season of 1988-1989, 211 expeditions were registered: 52 from the...