Sierra Nevada de Cocuy, Cordillera Oriental, 1991. Our expedition was composed of two women, leader Isabel Suárez and Rosario Rivas, and Carlos Davila and me. Suárez had in December of 1990 climbed the difficult north face of Ritacuba Negro in thi...
About mid-day on February 27, we (author and two others) parked at Miller Creek and began skinning up through sustained high winds towards the terminus of the Canwell Glacier. While skinning on the flat river valley, occasional “whoomphing” was ...
Broad Peak ascents, attempts and tragedy. A Japanese team led by Kunimitsu Sakai reached the summit of Broad Peak by the normal route on June 27. Along with Sakai on the top were Kenji Shimakata, Masato Sasaki and Sachi Masumoto. A second Japanese...
DON WHILLANS Portrait of a Mountaineer, by Don Whillans and Alick Ormerod. London: William Heinemann Ltd. 266 pages, illustrated. £2.50In an age when fine mountaineers are commonplace and excellent ones are everywhere, Don Whillans stands out as o...
Previously unrecorded outside Korea, but an important event in the history of climbing in the Karavshin, was a new route, climbed free, on the giant east face of Pik 4,810m (Boston) above the Ak-su Valley. On July 17,1994, Koreans Choi Byeonggi an...
Borkolday Range, first ascents. The Borkoldoy range is a limestone massif situated north of the Dankova region of the West Kokshaal-Too. Apart from British expeditions in 1995 and 2002, which operated in the northeast and southwest corners of the ...
Ama Dablam, Post-Monsoon Ascents, Attempts and Tragedy. As has been the case in past post-monsoon years, many expeditions head for Ama Dablam (6812 meters, 22,349 feet). In 1992, they completed the 100th to the 112th ascents. Except for where note...
Island in the Sky: Pioneering Accounts of Mount Rainier, 1833-1894. Paul Schullery, editor. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1987. 200 pages, black and white illustrations, 1 early map. $10.95 (paper).Schullery, a former National Park Service seasonal n...
Fersmana Glacier, Pik Neizvestniy, first ascent, and various attempts. In July and August I traveled with Grant Piper and Graham Rowbotham to the central part of the Western Kokshaal-Too. We climbed in the previously unexplored Fersmana Glacier ba...
North Peak of Mount IndexONE of the more interesting phases of climbing in Washingington’s Cascades is the successive realization of goals, previously unattained. With the advent of the climbing season, prolonged somewhat because of the late sprin...
A Peruvian Eiger—Yerupajá Chico’s East FaceStéphane Schaffter, Mountain Guide, SwitzerlandIN 1957, LIKE OTHER LATER climbers, Toni Egger and Jungmeier climbed the east ridge of Yerupajá and had front-row seats to see its east face. In 1980 on my f...
YOSSI BRAIN 1967-1999When trying to write of someone when they are gone, it becomes necessary to call up a mental image, so as to have something to work with. In my mind’s eye, Yossarian Brain is standing, holding court in Mungo’s Bar in La Paz, B...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO EXPERIENCE,NO EQUIPMENTConnecticut, Ragged Mountain, Main CliffOn November 6, 1993, two friends decided to try mountain biking in a new area. They entered Ragged Mountain Preserve, but found the biking there unsa...
Nonjin Tanglha Central Peak, ascent. Keith Affleck (UK), Kate Brown (Australia), and Liz Carr, Dan Mazur, and I (all US) traveled overland from Kathmandu to Lhasa. There, we met up with two Tibetan climbing assistants, Nwang and Penba, who were st...
Colorado, Mount Evans, North face—On Sunday, June 23, the following set out for a technical climb of Mt. Evans: T. Alpha, B. Bruvold, W. Davis and C. Walsmith (31). Because the sun had not reached the north face and the wind was cold, the party ch...
RAPPEL FAILURE—California, Pinnacles National Monument, Tombstone Rock. On May 15, R. B. Fischer (27) and Mitchell R. Haydon (16) left the Chaparral Campground and followed the Juniper Canyon Trail one-half mile to the start of climbing on Tombsto...
Nanga Parbat, Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank. Two South Korean expeditions combined their efforts. The four-man Gwangju Wooam expedition led by Park Chan-Gi arrived on May 14 and began preparing the route. The 14-man Kyung Nam Alpine Club expeditio...
Chugach-St. Elias Mountains, West-East Ski Traverse. Jack Duggan, Gunnar Naslund, Brian Okonek, Roger Cowals, Vern Tejas and I completed a 365-mile traverse of the extensive east-west-trending glacial system between Cordova and Yakutat. We started...
Arwa Spire and Kalanka, attempts. In June a Korean team led by Park Heungsoo attempted Arwa Spire but was defeated by bad weather and snowfall. In August and September a Dutch team led by Mike Van Berkel failed on Kalanka because of bad weather, a...
Cerro Baboso, Veladero Massif, Central Andes. I saw this beautiful mountain in an expedition to nearby Volcan Veladero. The name Baboso was given by the guides; it doesn’t appear in any official map (which is common in Argentine maps) but is ca. 6...