Hurry Up Peak, Northeast Glacier. On June 16, 1969, Don Turnbull and I left Cascade Pass and descended into the Pelton Creek Basin. We ascended 1800 feet up the small glacier to the Pelton-Magic Col. A descent of 1000 feet was made to reach the gl...
Cordillera de Huallanca. Our expedition was organized by the Club Alpino Paulista with the collaboration of the Faculty of Geology of São Paulo, Brazil. It was composed of the Brazilians Luiz Guilherme Assumpção, Jair Laguna, Jorge Piotowski, Ital...
Tirich Mir, Ascents and Tragedy. On June 14 the three Japanese members of the "Barbarian Club Tirich Mir Expedition" led by Ayumi Nozawai arrived at Base Camp (4800 meters). Despite an initial period of unsettled weather they climbed in a lightwei...
P 12,019, East Face, Beartooth Range. On July 24 Wally Hunter and I made the first ascent of the east face of P 12,019 It is located at the end of Rock Creek between Glacier and Moon lakes. After 1½-mile approach, we climbed a snowfield to the bas...
Colorado, Estes Park, The Thumb. On 20 September Jim Russell (17), Gary Hartman (16), and Penny McMahon (16), one of two parties, started to climb The Needle. Jim Russell took the first lead and arrived at the ledge about forty feet above the grou...
P 6039, P 6744, P 6855, P 6151, Chugach Mountains. On June 3, Bob Jacobs, Jeanie Nelson, Will Martin and I were dropped off by wheel-skied aircraft in an unnamed glacial valley five miles southeast of the junction of the Bremner and Tana Lobe Glac...
Snow Creek Wall, Iconoclast. This route lies between Galaxy and Outer Space, beginning with the first pitch of Remorse and ending with the last pitch of the Outer Space crack. It was climbed June 13 by Mead and Tom Hargis. Mead writes, “Unfortunat...
Wala Peak 141, Mandaras Valley. The peak marked as number 141 on the Wala map (c. 1 7,720 feet) was climbed for the first time by J. J. Asper, Dr. F. Dombre and W. Tschan. Other members of this Swiss expedition were René Dittert, leader, Dr. R. Br...
Nevado Juncal, Portillo district. This very high mountain, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, some 15 miles south of the ski resort of Portillo, was visited by a party of two members of the mountain club of the Universidad de Chile at Sant...
Ketil, South Greenland. Our expedition to Ketil’s west face above Tasermiut Fjord was organized by two French guides, Michel Pellé and me, in collaboration with “Terres d’Aventure.” The team included Belgians Lut Vivijs and her husband Jan Van Hee...
Dhaulagiri Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of five Russians and five Germans was officially led jointly by Vladimir Musienko and Erwin Beyerlein. They climbed the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. On April 30, Russians Alexei Guliayev, Valeri Kokha...
JOHN PERCY FARRAR1857-1929Captain John Percy Farrar, D.S.O., died in London on February 18, in his seventy-second year, a well-loved member of the Alpine Club, of which he had been a member for 46 years.He was born December 25, 1857, the son of Ch...
Northern Cascades: (1) Monte Cristo District. On the morning of 13 September 1947, a party of four young members of the Mountaineers Inc., of Seattle, left Monte Cristo by trail to climb the three Wilmon Spires. According to one of them, “This was...
Paragliders and Modern AlpinismJohn BouchardPARAGLIDERS OR PARAPENTES, as they are known in France, are the most radical development in alpine climbing since the ice-tool revolution in the seventies. Just as the new ice tools opened countless poss...
NecrologyBruce AndrewsDavid GunstoneLandon G. RockwellGeorge Van Brunt CochranRichard HechtelRyan SayersJohn R. Durrance, M.D.James KurtzGeorge R. SennerGuy EdwardsUse LetingerIra SpringAndrew Embick, M.D.William J. MosconiMark WagonerLinnea Erick...
Pamirs. A Moscow dispatch dated 17 December 1947 reports that two previously unnamed peaks in the Northwestern Pamirs have been climbed and named. One (6400 m.) now commemorates the Thirtieth Anniversary of the Soviet Revolution; the other (7000 m...
PIERRE BEGHIN1951-1992Another of the world’s foremost mountaineers has lost his life in the Himalaya. Pierre Beghin, the Frenchman who during the last decade broke the barriers of the impossible, was killed on October 11 on the south face of Annap...
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak in the northern half of the chain. After hiring a car and driver in Lijiang on the 11th, we traveled to the Jade...
Jannu. Our team of the Basque Mountain Federation consisted of Angel María Abrego, leader, Iñaki Aldaia, Xabier Muru, Patxi Senosiain, Josema Casimiro and me as doctor. We had two high-altitude Sherpas, Ang Kami and Ang Nima. We established Base C...
Buckskin Glacier, Various Activity. Ben Gilmore, Kevin Mahoney, Mike Wood, Scott DeCapio and I flew to the Buckskin Glacier on September 20. On September 24, the five us made the second ascent of Mooseskin Mountain (Peak 8,300') by skis. Sliding r...