Bonanza Peak, Western Summit, Great North Couloir. On May 31 Mark Fielding and I climbed this 50° 2200-foot-high couloir to the 9400-foot summit. Recent snowfall allowed for good step-kicking, except for a few ice patches, where anchored belays we...
University Peak, North Ridge. University Peak (14,470') is a relatively unknown pyramid-shaped mountain lying within the University Range of the St. Elias mountains; its south, west and east faces rise more than 8,000 feet above the glaciers. If U...
FitzRoy. (The following details have just been received as the Journal goes to press.) We established Base Camp on January 8 and on the 12th climbed Guillaumet, an interesting rock climb with much Class VI climbing and a bivouac. On the 14th Comes...
Calzada Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition, composed of Carlo Festi, Aldo Franceschini, Ostilio Campese, Padre Angelo Gelmi, Marco Gorini and me, climbed in the Calzada group in August. After ten days of acclimatization, we drove to the villag...
From a base camp below the glacier on the west side of the mountain, Gu Jie, Liu Yang, and Peng Xiaolong made the likely second ascent of Peak 5,672m on the Chinese PLA Map, via the west face direct. The trio made a single-push ascent and de...
Asgard and Other Peaks, Baffin Island. Several expeditions from Europe climbed in Auyuittuq National Park. Swiss Jean Troillet, Christian Jäggi and Ruedi Homberger climbed Asgard via the southeast buttress (Scott-Hennek) route on June 24. Homberge...
California, San Gabriel Mountains (3),Thunder Mountain—On November 24, at approximately 10:30 a.m., Geza Bene (34), accompanied by his wife and daughter and friends boarded the Mt. Baldy Ski Lift for Baldy Notch. The party totalled seven persons. ...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, HYPOTHERMIAWashington, Mt. BakerOn July 27, Jack Frazier (18) was two and a half miles from the trail head on Mt. Baker at 3 p.m. when he fell 15 feet into a crevasse and became wedged. His two partners attempted to get him out...
Aquilpo and Other Peaks, Cordillera Blanca. The Tokyo Dental College expedition was led by Fujio Watanabe and Yuko Yoda and was also composed of Seigo Matsushima, Kiyoji Kato, Katsuyasu Yamaguchi, Masaru Sakai and Siochiro Asanami. From Vicos on J...
P 6400 and P 5900 Ascents, and Bublimotin Attempt. Americans Lois Remington, Tim Dolan, Doug Lubes, and Scott Burch, after receiving permission from Pakistani authorities in Gilgit, established Base Camp at 3950 meters under P 6400 in the Chapchin...
Washington, Olympic National Park, Mt. Storm King. On August 18 Kenneth Yamauchi (19) and two companions, Stephen Jackson and Bill Hartford, all student trainees working in Olympic National Park, left the Storm King Visitor Center at 1:00 P.M. to ...
Cordillera Urubamba. The American Malcolm Moore and I visited the Abra Malaga (Malaga Pass) area. Leaving the Cuzco-Quillabamba bus at the top of the pass on April 25, we decided against an attempt in such stormy weather on Huacrahuilki (also know...
Rocky Mountain National Park, rapid ascents and enchainments. On the Diamond of Long’s Peak in early July, Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue climbed five routes, totaling 30 guidebook pitches, in 23 hours car-to-car (probably the most routes climb...
Whitney Portal Buttress. One of the most overlooked rock-climbing challenges of the Sierra seemed to lie at the end of the Whitney Portal road, above Lone Pine. Facing south, an elegant white buttress rises from a few hundred feet above the horse ...
Hayes Range Speed Traverse. On the first weekend of May, U. S. Ski Team member Audun Endestadt and I skied 140 miles across the Hayes Range in three days and four hours, winning a $1000 bet, which like gentlemen we declined to collect. With alpine...
Arizona, West Fork, Oak Creek Canyon (Sedona). On 15 February Dick Lee (22) was rappelling down an 80-90-foot cliff on a fast free rappel. He had completed two jumps and as he was pushing off into the third the rope (¾ inch manila and ? inch nylon...
Dhaulagiri, Pear Route Attempt, 1979. (Further and more accurate details of the Polish Gdynia-Gdansk expedition.) Expedition equipment was lost in a fire in Karachi during shipment, delaying matters. Base Camp was set up on September 1, 1979 at 15...
Christianity Tower, Church Towers. The Church Towers are a group of four striking red-sandstone monoliths south of Sedona in the Oak Creek Canyon area. The largest and highest had not been scaled when Joe Brown, Dan McHale and I arrived on April 5...
Ragged Peak, Central Alaska Range. On August 17, Robin Bayer, Logan Colby, Scott Benson and I made the first ascent of Ragged Peak (9160 feet), via the north ridge in eight hours round-trip from the Brooks Glacier.Greg Collins, National Outdoor Le...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CHOCK PULLED OUT Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain, The ShoeOn July 6, R B. was part of an “Advanced Mountain Operations Course” being run by the Canadian Military out of CPC Trenton. The group consisted of 14 student...