Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Elizabeth Knowlton, 1895-1989

ELIZABETH KNOWLTON 1895-1989 With the death of Elizabeth Knowlton on January 26, 1989, we have lost one of our most distinguished lady mountaineers. She was born on October 25, 1895 in Springfield, Massachusetts, to Marcus Perrin Knowlton, Chief ...

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| Published 1989 | Author Kenneth Henderson


Book Reviews AAJ
Enduring Patagonia

Enduring Patagonia. Gregory Crouch. New York: Random House. 224 pages, hardcover. $24.95.Wind, cold wind, rain, snow, waiting, and more wind. These elements define the desolate peaks of Patagonia, mountains of modest altitude, but mountains with s...


Notes AAJ
Khumbu Climbing School

Khumbu Climbing SchoolThe Sherpa people of Nepal visit the mountains for reasons quite different than the western climber. For the Sherpa of Nepal climbing is by and large a vocation. The level of risk these climbers accept while working is very h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Kennedy

Mount Kennedy. Bill Younkin, leader, Gary Uhland, Mike Heil and I* were flown to 6200 feet on the Cathedral Glacier on June 9. We immediately began ferrying loads up the glacier, pulling 150 pounds on sleds and carrying 50-pound packs. Following t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4) Teewinot

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (4), Teewinot—On August 7, Yvon Chouinard (21) and Robert Kamps were attempting the north face of the Crooked Thumb on Teewinot Mountain. Chouinard was leading an overhang using direct aid and one rope. After com...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed No Protection, California, Yosemite Valley

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 13 at 9:30 a.m., Darich Rapitrich (26) was attempting to climb the first pitch of the Quicksilver Route located on the North Face of Middle Citadel, 100 yards west of the North Bu...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Failure, Northwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mt. Thor

RAPPEL FAILURENorthwest Territories, Baffin Island, Mt. ThorOn June 8, 1979, a party of seven Japanese climbers from the Shimizu Rock Climbing Club were attempting the west face of Mt. Thor. W. Yamazaki was working alone retrieving fixed ropes and...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Probing the Mystery

Probing the Mystery. Bradford Washburn set out late in January 1948 with an expedition planning to spend six weeks in aerial photographic exploration of the Amne Machin Mountains. We hope to include full details in our next number—and to learn at ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Alaska Section

Alaska Section. The Alaska Section has been moving forward with a program to replace the aging Snowbird Hut in the Talkeetna Mountains near Hatcher Pass. Built over 30 years ago, the hut sits on a wood foundation that has become unstable due to it...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, Northeast Face

Manaslu, Northeast Face. Thirteen members of the commercial Hauser Exkursionen International reached the summit of Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet). The leader was the Swiss Hans von Känel, who climbed his fifth 8000-meter peak. The summit was r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Mount Howson

Mount Howson. A cairn, containing a bronze plaque, has been erected on the south col of Mount Howson in memory of Major E. R. Gibson, formerly president of the Alpine Club of Canada, who lost his life in the summer of 1957 in an attempt at the fir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru-Cordillera Huayhuash, Rosac, South Face, and Other Climbs

Rasac, South Face, and Other Climbs. After climbing during June in the Cordillera Blanca, we New Zealanders spent July in the Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 5 to 7 Carol McDermott, Steve Rawsley, Craig Stobo and I climbed the west face direct of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Snow, Fall into Moat, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment — Utah, Mount Timpanogos

SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Mount TimpanogosOn May 23, 1982, Terrence Brown (28) left his residence at 0700 to hike up Mount Timpanogos. The following day, at 1000, he was reported missing. His dog was f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Tierra del Fuego, Monte Sarmiento, West Peak, 1986

Monte Sarmiento, West Peak, 1986. Italians finally climbed the west peak of Monte Sarmiento. The east summit (2234 meters, 7730 feet) had been climbed by its south ridge on March 7, 1956 by Carlo Mauri and Clemente Maffei. Giuseppe Agnolotti led t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — California, Tahquitz Rock

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Tahquitz RockIn May of 1984, Kimberly Eittreim (23) was killed when a rock weighing in excess of 240 kilograms, which was accidentally dislodged by the lead climber on Sahara Terror, fell a distance of ten meters and landed...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier

Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 15 July the Louden family, Melvin Louden (27), Phyllis Louden (26), Mark Louden (6), Kelly Louden (5), and Karen Louden (4) were returning from a walk to the Paradise Ice Caves (approximately 2 1/2 miles from Paradise R...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Failure to Test Hold, Arizona, Camelback Mountain

FALL ON ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD Arizona, Camelback MountainOn December 26 K.P. (female-46), L.R. (male-53), and T.N. (female -50ish) went out to climb on Camelback Mountain, a park area located centrally in Phoenix. L.R. is a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges of British Columbia, Middle Scottish Peak, East Face

Middle Scottish Peak, East Face. From the setting, rock and quality, this 5.6 climb deserves mention. From the North Star Glacier, the east face rises as a smooth slab. We climbed a pitch up the right side of the face to a prominent ledge, moved 1...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness, Party Separated, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell

ILLNESS, PARTY SEPARATED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn July 30, 1988, three climbers started early to climb Mount Edith Cavell via the East Ridge. They reached the first step at an elevation of 2940 meters, when one of the climber...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, Dharansura, Angdu Ri

Dharansura, Angdu Ri. A 10-person expedition from Bombay made two ascents in East Kulu. On July 5 A. Ghosh, Miss V. Gadre, S.M. Farookh and W.M. Pinto climbed Angdu Ri (5953 meters, 19,530 feet). On July 8 leader Zuzer Rangwala, A. Eicher and Bada...