Rondoy, Cordillera Huayhuash. Walter Bonatti led an expedition of the Monza section of the Club Alpino Italiano to the Cordillera Huayhuash. With him were Bruno Ferrario, Giancarlo Frigieri and Andrea Oggioni. (The latter died tragically on the Gr...
In October, when fall storms lashed the high peaks of Colorado’s Elk Range with almost daily fronts of freezing rain and snow, a thin ribbon of water ice breached the 800' lower granite buttress guarding the steep couloirs and rock bands of Capi...
Ericsson Crags, North Face. East of Mount Brewer the immensity of the surroundings almost renders dimensions immeasurable. So it is in much of the high Sierra. Packing in ropes and iron 19 miles is a proven way to get in shape for a good high-coun...
HEAT EXHAUSTIONNew York, ShawangunksA man (29) was leading the first pitch of Coexistence (5.10) on a hot summer day when he threw up and fainted. He was roped, and so was lowered to the ground, sprinkled, and sent to Coxing to soak. (Source: Brad...
Mt. Thor, Project Mayhem. On July 28 Jim Beyer soloed to the summit of Mt. Thor after completing what he calls “the hardest big wall route on the planet.” The route has five pitches of modern A5 and three pitches of A4+. By comparison, he says the...
Trips and Trails, Volumes 1 and 2, by E. M. Sterling. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers, 1967 and 1968, respectively. 221 and 217 pages, 126 and 137 photographs by Bob and Ira Spring, and 106 and 104 maps by Marge Mueller, respectively for eac...
Himalayan Assault, by the French Himalayan Expedition, 1936. Translated into English by Nea E. Morin. Introduction by Hon. C. G. Bruce. 8vo. ; xv + 203 pages, with 48 gravure plates and 3 maps. London: Methuen & Co., 1938. Price 15 s.An expedi...
In the spring, Simon Yates and I did what we thought was the first ascent of the massive Southwest Spur of the South Summit of Mt. Vancouver (Good Neighbor Peak, 15,700') on the Alaska-Yukon border. The line is clearly visible in a Bradford Washbu...
Spokane Mountaineers. Earlier success in 1960 prompted our return to the Tetons in 1965 for another summer outing. Fifty-eight people swarmed over standard routes and trails. The highlight of the outing was an ascent of Mount Moran by the C.M.C. r...
Snow Dome, For Fathers to serac base. This route is an obvious line, 600m to climber’s right of Slipstream (approach as for that route). Ski in, park da sticks, grab your picks, strap your balls on, and move like the Devil himself is chasing you, ...
The idea of going to the Hayes Range developed after we did some digging on the Internet and made a trip to the (British) Alpine Clublibrary. Scouring expedition reports, Chris Johnson, Neil Warren, and I were unable to find a report of an ascent ...
Brenta Spire. Second ascent, August 22nd, 1938. S. Austin, G. Dawson, M. Dawson. The first ascent is described elsewhere in this issue (p. 298). I he Crescent-Brenta Col was reached by a cirque wall on the E., and was the most difficult part of th...
Czechoslovakian Exchange. A climbing exchange should show you more than just new climbers and new crags. It is equally important to live a new lifestyle. In a Socialist country there is no shortage of rules to keep you in line every step; as if th...
Artesonraju, Rinrahirca, Taulliraju, Chopicalqui, Huascarán. A 46-member Iowa Mountaineer expedition arrived in Peru on July 16. A group of 15 led by Sven Olof Swartling headed into the Quebrada Santa Cruz, where they climbed the following: Arteso...
Ojos del SaladoH. ADAMS CARTERFor the past two years there has been considerable speculation as to whether the Argentine peak, Aconcagua, was still to be considered the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. Reports persisted that it might ha...
FALLING ROCK, WEATHER, LATE START—CLIMBING TOO SLOWLYWashington, Mount Ranier, Liberty RidgeAround 11:30 a.m. on June 25, Mount Rainier Park Communications received a 911 call from a team of three climbers requesting a rescue from 9,700 feet on Li...
Slovak Lhotse and Everest Ascents and Tragedy. Slovak and New Zealand climbers climbed under the same permission, but it seems that both groups acted quite independently of each other. The New Zealand group’s activities are covered separately in t...
Fox Jaw Cirque, new routes. On July 18 Jessica Lundin and I arrived in Kulusuk, thrilled to be attempting new routes in the Arctic. We spent a week in Tasiilaq stocking up on provisions, scrambling up a few mountain ridges, and watching arch-shape...
FAILURE TO TURN BACK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHER New Hampshire, Mount LafayetteRussel and Brenda Cox went for a hike to the summit of Mt. Lafayette early Sunday morning, March 21. They had planned to follow...
Kongde-Ri, East Peak. A German Alpine Club five-man expedition from the Allgäu-Kempten section made the first ascent of Kongde-Ri’s eastern (lower) summit (19,991 feet), 21 miles southwest of Mount Everest. The climb was made from the Lumding Khol...